Dead Battery Issue

I keep having a dead cranking battery on my crappie rig. I figured it was the battery not holding a charge, so i bought a new one end of september. This battery is connected to my lights, bilge, and two Lowrance HDS units. Also, the livewell timer. None of the switches are on. New battery was fine while i was taking it to the lake in october. It sat for a month and is stone dead. Charged it overnight and was all good again. Anyone have any input? Something is causing a drain. Switch is also off. Thinking of disconnect when not in use if i can not find the issue.

I have HDS units also and I wondered if they have a residual drain like TVs and other electronic devices even when turned off. I keep my charger plugged in all the time so if mine is draining the charger would have covered the drain and I would not notice it.
Might try disconnecting them and see if it still happens.

I USE 1 BATTERY FOR CRANKING ONLY
1 FOR ALL MY SONARS
AND 1 FOR FISHING LIGHTS

You have a little light or something making contact and slowly draining your battery= If you have Panoptics, put a on/off switch on transducer. They draw current when not in use.

I found that my trolling motor was a bit warm when my boat was sitting in the barn on fully charged batts so I now use the disconnect that was already built into my boat (push button switches) that kills all the power from my batts to the electronics. My motor will still crank without connecting those switches but that is all that works until I push in those buttons.

Here is one thing you can try. It needs to be a little dark so you can see it. Disconnect your grounds, take one at a time and touch them to the post and see if you get a spark. Then if you do trace everything connected to that ground until you find what is drawing power. In the scenario you describe I don’t see anything that would kill a battery in a month. Search out any hidden light that could be on that you might not see like compartments or under dash, maybe instruments.

you need to install a perko switch to isolate your battery. Most outboards have computers built in and will draw your battery down. My boat was doing same thing, installed perko switch and fixed problem

Kenny, I agree with Hilljiger. I would install a master power switch that everything except the float switch for your bilge pump runs through.

An onboard charger will cure the problem, probably a low voltage draw from sonar or other electronic devise.Transistors need the low voltage, even when off

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trypman1

You have a little light or something making contact and slowly draining your battery= If you have Panoptics, put a on/off switch on transducer. They draw current when not in use.

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No light I am aware of. No panoptics unfortunately.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by gabowman

I found that my trolling motor was a bit warm when my boat was sitting in the barn on fully charged batts so I now use the disconnect that was already built into my boat (push button switches) that kills all the power from my batts to the electronics. My motor will still crank without connecting those switches but that is all that works until I push in those buttons.

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Great idea!


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hilljiger

you need to install a perko switch to isolate your battery. Most outboards have computers built in and will draw your battery down. My boat was doing same thing, installed perko switch and fixed problem

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Good plan ,I will try this!


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by KHNC

Good plan ,I will try this!


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Kenny, when you do a Perko Switch I would consider still direct wiring the float switch for your bilge direct to your battery. That way if you are at a dock over night you can kill your power but if a rain storm comes any excess water will still be pumped out.

I was having cranking battery issues about every third trip I’d have a dead battery. Exchange for a new battery twice. Finally just went with a onboard charger. I think the HB Helix was pulling more than my motor was charging. 8 hours fishing and maybe 15 minutes of run time. No problem since.


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Transistors do not "need power even when off", that is malarkey. Some fishfinders do draw a little current when off, usually to keep volatile memory intact. The Livescope GLS10 module in my boat draws 13 mA when off, a trivial amount unless your battery is very small or weak. I don't use a switch and don't need one.

A digital multimeter is an invaluable tool for finding the "leak", but most folks don't know how to use them. The process is simple: find the wire(s) that is drawing current when everything is off, and trace it to the culprit. Usually the access to the wiring is in hard to get places, I have to lie on my back with legs hanging over the side to get under my center console. It's easier to pull the whole switch panel in my case.

A fuseholder, or fuse panel is a good place to break the circuit and insert the meter: just pull the fuse and put the Amp meter across the terminals. Remember a meter in DC current mode is like a wire, a short-circuit, and so be careful not to connect it across any voltage sources or batteries in current mode. On most meters, (I have a Fluke) you have to physically move the red probe to a separate socket for current mode - a safety feature.

When I put my boat in the garage, all my electronics are unplugged. A friend told me many years ago, even if they are turned off they will drain the battery. I don't know that for sure, but it only takes a second to unplug them. Never had a battery to go dead unless it was no good.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jawjatek

Transistors do not "need power even when off", that is malarkey. Some fishfinders do draw a little current when off, usually to keep volatile memory intact. The Livescope GLS10 module in my boat draws 13 mA when off, a trivial amount unless your battery is very small or weak. I don't use a switch and don't need one.

A digital multimeter is an invaluable tool for finding the "leak", but most folks don't know how to use them. The process is simple: find the wire(s) that is drawing current when everything is off, and trace it to the culprit. Usually the access to the wiring is in hard to get places, I have to lie on my back with legs hanging over the side to get under my center console. It's easier to pull the whole switch panel in my case.

A fuseholder, or fuse panel is a good place to break the circuit and insert the meter: just pull the fuse and put the Amp meter across the terminals. Remember a meter in DC current mode is like a wire, a short-circuit, and so be careful not to connect it across any voltage sources or batteries in current mode. On most meters, (I have a Fluke) you have to physically move the red probe to a separate socket for current mode - a safety feature.

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I have a Fluke meter as well. I ordered a disconnect switch for 15.00. Probably go ahead and install it. My bass boat has one in it. None of my past boats have had one. Not a bad idea. However, i would like to track down the source, and i plan to do that as well. Need to put it in the garage so i can have time to work on it this winter.

Do what jawjatek said, that's the correct way to find the problem. Getting to tight places may be the biggest problem though. But if there is a real problem, it needs to be fixed. Don't cover it up.














jawjatek is online now

Installed the disconnect to all of the electronics and running lights. Left the starter cables connected. If it happens again, I will at least know it has something to do with ignition or starter solenoid. Hopefully the issue is resolved. Thx


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