Livescope shallow water

Love my livescope, greatest thing ever. I like to run it pretty hot so I can see everything and there is lots of clutter. In 15 foot of water or more it works fantastic. Below 15 foot it starts to distort. Anybody else have this problem? I ran 12 gauge wire that I had leftover from when I ran the wire for my hummingbird. The manual said run 10 gauge wire for runs of the length I did. Think it’s possible that could be the problem? Could be possible livescope just can’t be run with that much gain at shallow depths.

Regardless of the answers to your question, I'd change that wire ASAP. The user guide said to use 10 ga and I used 8 gauge. You run a very real risk of burning up your black box.

I was scanning riprap on a bridge setting in 9FOW scanning back to the rock and saw fish swim back towards the boat but I am thinking I was running around 65%

My problem with 14 gauge wire, just needed about 2ft, was half the time would get a not connect message. Reached the right person at garmin he said the start up pulled more power and needed the 10 gauge. Helped the problem but still not fixed. Another rep told me i needed to get the latest up garde it adressed that issue. Worked great replace that wire and get the latest up date.

I have some questions about the black box. If the book calls for 10 ga. wire than you are hooking it to 14 ga wire that is the power cord. Now if you run the main power cord straight to the battery would that not work just as good.
I' guessing it would be the same with the power cord to the 93sv plus.Or if I could get some one to call me.
850-797-0273 at any time.

Thanks.
Dickey

Yes. In my boat I have a battery in the forward compartment to run the Garmin 102sv and GLS10 module, and both power cords go directly to the battery, with no extension. Runs as it should, no problems whatsoever.

The larger wire is recommended when you have to extend the power more than a few feet, like from the bow to a battery in the rear of the boat. Smaller wire has more resistance than larger wire, and will drop more voltage, and can result in low voltage at the device.

Ok and thanks. I also have plugs I can use to plug into on the front at the battery with a plug end. This is what I wanted to do if I could so I will be able to take on and off. The power cords are longer than the plus wires to battery.

Is it ok to have a battery up front getting tossed up and down from rough water? I would love to move mine up front to get rid of some weight in the back, and wire it directly to the battery. But I worry about things like that, I would secure it good of course, but it does get pretty rough up there at times. If the acid spilled it would probably eat thru the boat, no?

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Is it ok to have a battery up front getting tossed up and down from rough water? I would love to move mine up front to get rid of some weight in the back, and wire it directly to the battery. But I worry about things like that, I would secure it good of course, but it does get pretty rough up there at times. If the acid spilled it would probably eat thru the boat, no?

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Depending on the boat and waters traversed, it cetaintly can get ruff in the bow.
Acid won't hurt fiberglass, but aluminum will corrode quickly.

Put the wet cell battery in a plastic box with a cover or replace with an AGM type battery.

Also, a AGM battery can handle vibration better.

Another possibilty is a small Lithium battery up front, like the ice fisherman use.

Up front, strapped down well in battery trays, I have 2-Sealed AGM group 31 for the TM, and one 50 Ah lithium for my 102SV+GLS-10. No problems, I don't run super fast nor rough. YMMV

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one 50 Ah lithium for my 102SV+GLS-10

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jawjatek

Can you share which 50ah lithium you have?

Just curious on the different lithium brands and sizes.

Thanks

Ionic is the brand; had it a few months, so far so good. I charge it with a Noco G7200 on "AGM" setting.

Thanks

Thanks for the ideas guys. You have those batteries in the rod locker or middle compartment?

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Originally Posted by jawjatek

Up front, strapped down well in battery trays, I have 2-Sealed AGM group 31 for the TM, and one 50 Ah lithium for my 102SV+GLS-10. No problems, I don't run super fast nor rough. YMMV

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Mine are up front strapped down. No problems. I went out yesterday for the first time with the LS. I was not happy with it. I have now learned it needs to calibrated . ant help with that would be welcome. It sounds simple.

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I went out yesterday for the first time with the LS. I was not happy with it. I have now learned it needs to calibrated . ant help with that would be welcome. It sounds simple.

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is the LS transducer mounted on the trolling motor or seperate stick mount?

If on the trolling motor, mounted on the shaft or the motor?

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I was not happy with it.

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Can you tell us what your unhappy with?

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Originally Posted by MikeF

is the LS transducer mounted on the trolling motor or seperate stick mount?

If on the trolling motor, mounted on the shaft or the motor?




Can you tell us what your unhappy with?

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I'm sure it's operator fault. I have the transducer on a pole by it's self. It's an old trolling motor shaft with out the foot. I am getting only half the picture on the screen from the bottom up. I went back to reread the instructions and found the part about calibrate the compass.
I don't know if that has anything to do with it. I have watched all kinds of video of different people and mine looks nothing like theirs or what on the simulator.

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I'm sure it's operator fault

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Could be.

My IT wife calls it "A carbon unit interface issue". LOL


Is the transducer mounted on the left or right side of the pole?

The transducer mounting is different for each side.

Double check the instructions for transducer mounting and do the calibration descibed in the instructions.
Pretty easy and there is a progress bar that shows on graph as you turn in a circle to let you know when your done and calibrated.
Less than 5 minutes to do.

Leave the trolling motor up and drive the boat with the main motor so that the trolling motor does not add magnetic inteference during the calibration sequence.

If the picture does not improve after the above, try resetting defaults with the Livescope connected and running.

Just taking it step by step to see if we can figure out the problem.

Ok thanks. The transducer is on the left side of the pole. I was planning on doing it the way you said. I have about 3ft between TM and LS. Like I said I reread the how too. My son always tells me reading is knowledge. LOL.

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My son always tells me reading is knowledge. LOL.

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LOL

When I show my frustration with all things "computerized", she calmly says "Sometimes the road is just longer for some people".

I seem to be on the road quite frequently.:Rofl

Yea well age has a lot to do with it also.

I never bothered to calibrate mine. I don't need the indicator on the screen, so.. I doubt this has anything to do with your issue, but you should take and post screenshots so we see what you see. Check the orientation on the mount against the little (lame) illustration in the Livescope instructions.