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Any tips on removing/installing the bearing carrier retaining ring on a 30hp Yamaha without the special tools? I can actually probably get it out ok by drilling or cutting but not sure about installing it. Looking for hacks or instructions for making my own homemade tool.
pictures ?
Are you rebuilding lower or just replacing seals. If just replacing seals you should be able to use a couple of small sheet metal screws and work the seals out and reinstall new seals using a driver made from a piece of PVC pipe that just fits over shaft.
I don't foresee having to rebuild the lower but I do have to replace the shift rod. On these Yamahas the bearing carrier and prop shaft assembly have to be removed in order to get the shifting cam on the end of the shift rod to drop in. I do plan on replacing the prop shaft seals too but only because it would be smart to go ahead and do them while its out and apart.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cray
I say I don't foresee having to rebuild but I got a decent deal on this motor because of the lower unit problem. With the shifting rod assembly out it is engaged in forward gear which is good but doesnt turn by hand quite as easily as I would imagine it should but that may in part be due to not having any oil in it at the moment. We shall see. I think worst case is it may need bearings too but given that it was said to shift fine before the shift rod broke I'm fingers crossed hoping that the gears and clutch dog are good.
Attachment 350044Quote:
Originally Posted by "G"
This is what most look like I believe. Spanner nut may be the proper term.
Here would be my first approach. I’d use a long thin brass punch and get on one of the dogs and tap it if you can. Usually once the break loose they are not to hard to spin out. If you can’t reach in with a punch then I’d go inserch of the proper socket. That’s how I removed and installed one on a older mariner that is built on a Yamaha platform. Also Napa usually sell sockets for 4 wheel drive front bearing nuts. One of those would probably work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cray
Thanks Cray. Those are all good ideas. I have yet to even pop the prop off so I'm not sure what accessibility will be like. I'd love to find a socket that fit....I'd imagine as long as it had at least 4 dogs to engage it would be enough. I may also try making my own but I'm not sure I'm that skilled lol.
You need to PM furflyin, he has a shop and he worked on his, even though he has a 115 I think he may have some good info for you. My one word of caution is make sure you put all your parts in sequence as you remove them and the shim’s can be a real pain to get inserted properly when going back together on some lower units.Quote:
Originally Posted by scout-j-m
Do you by chance have the Manual on your motor?
Thanks for the tip. I'll give furflyin a holler about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cray
I have a copy of a generic Clymer type manual. I bought what was listed as the factory service manual off of Emanuals.com or something and the download contained that one instead. I was thinking a $23 digital download was better than ordering a hardcopy from elsewhere for $60 but now I'm fighting them trying to get a refund for falsely advertising what they sold as the factory one. Thankfully I purchased through Paypal so they should make things right.
Here is an update from last night...I got the spanner nut off by just using a screwdriver and some light taps. Didn't appear to be torqued at all nor have any type of threadlocker or compound on the threads. Then the bearing carrier just pulled right out! From a rookie perspective the bearing carrier, prop shaft, reverse gear, rear main bearing, and pinion gear all looked/felt good. The clutch dog had a little rounding on the corners but didn't seem too bad to me. The forward gear was missing an entire tooth, however, so it will need to be replaced. I wonder if that tooth was broken off prior to a previous lower disassembly/rebuild because I would think that a whole tooth getting ground up in there would seize up at least one of the ball bearings in there, but they all seemed pretty smooth to me. If I could get by with a new forward gear, shift rod assembly, some seals, and a new spanner nut I'd be pretty happy.
I’d run a magnet around in there real good and pick up any shavings that might still be there. Clean real good with brake clean. My bet is some one pulled drain plug and that piece was stuck to magnet on plug. The ideal thing and some will say this is to replace the gears that mate to the forward gear. I check the mating gears and if they look good and have a clean wear pattern I’d just change the one gear. When you get it back together do a breaking procedure similar to a new engine. Maybe about 4-5 hours. Give that gear time to wear in against the old one to establish a wear pattern that matches the old one. Change lower unit oil, check and clean drain plug mage net. Run it another few hours normally and change oil again. Pay attention to how much if any metal is in oil and on magenet. Gould be very minimal at this point. Oil is cheaper than labor and parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by scout-j-m
When reinstalling, screw in that retainer and snug. Try to shake shaft, then loosen a turn and turn shaft a couple of times and retighten nut. This just makes sure every thing is aligned and seated properly.
Great tips, thank you! I just ordered the factory service manual too so I will hold off on working on it anymore until it comes in which may be another week.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cray
They give you a hard time just call credit card company and explain it to them. They will help.Quote:
Originally Posted by scout-j-m
They gave me the run around. But I filed a complaint with Paypal and they ruled in my favor.I'm pretty sure they are illegally selling copyright material so that may have helped my case with Paypal lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cray
That’s why I will hardly buy anything if they don’t take PayPal. And I’m sure you are correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by scout-j-m
Yes, I would not have bought from them if they didn't.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cray
Received the manual yesterday. It will be a big help. I will tear into my lower more this week and then try to order parts this weekend. I think my biggest hurdles will be checking that the correct shims are used as that all requires special tools.
I also purchased a used exhaust housing, driveshaft, shift shaft, and water tube all in short shaft lengths so I can convert my motor while at it.
PM replied. Sorry I couldn’t be more help. I took mine apart but it was so damaged that I had to replace the whole unit. I used a punch like Cray mentioned to remove the nut. You’ll need to put it in a vise to hold the casing.
Unless you replace gears or bearings you should be able to put back together just like it came apart with out much of a problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by scout-j-m
Unfortunately the forward gear will have to be replaced. And I'm not sure why it lost a tooth to begin with...I'm wondering if last time it was worked on if it was done right. I guess I'm leery of trusting the shims that are already present. Testing the backlash doesn't look too hard though so I may be able to get close on the shimming without special tools and then confirm backlash and call it good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cray
The missing tooth is the result of what's referred to as a single stress overload. It's the tooth that was in full contact at the instant the prop hit a solid object with the engine was at speed. A bad shim build will set the gears into a self destruct spiral. The top of the gears will be rounded and noticably worn. Your's should appear shiny with small nicks and dimples from chewing up that one tooth. Also, it sounds as though you are missing a locking ring that sits between the spanner nut and carrier. It has tabs that are to bend down and prevent the spanner from moving. No loc-tite is used.
Thanks for the explanation. I've yet to pull out the pinion and forward gear but will do so very soon and can take a better look at everything. I'll post some pictures here too. Interested to see if that gear is an oem part or one of the $50 ones from China they sell on Ebay.Quote:
Originally Posted by sliderman
As for the spanner nut, mine did have the locking tab ring. I can't remember though if the tabs were bent correctly to keep it locked in.
Here is an update. Things took a turn as I found a used lower locally. Was told it came from a motor with a bad powerhead from south Louisiana so it has seen some brackish water but looks really good overall. Had dark oil so I know that it has good seals and it shifted good by hand. I'll sand, prime and paint it at some point. I wish it was a short shaft though as that's still what I ultimately want. I may do the conversion on this one but before that I will probably fabricate a riser to put on my tilt and trim unit so I can use it as is and see if the tiller height is ok.
I'm still going to try to work on the broken lower. At a minimum break it down so I can see what all is salvageable and what is trash and from there try to fix it myself or sell the casing, driveshaft and guts online.