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I have a mini manual jackplate from Vance manufacturing I have been meaning to install on my boat. My boat is a relatively new Alumacraft 1648 flatbottom. I think the install will be pretty straightforward but I would like some suggestions on what sealant to use to seal the bolts/holes and the surface between the transom and jackplate. There are so many options out there it's hard to choose.
3M 4200 should work just fine, that's what I used on a jackplate install a couple of months ago on my aluminum boat. Some guys use the 5200 but heaven help them if they ever have to remove the plate or want to change it later on.
Thanks. Yep, I'm def not using 5200. Used that to glue on my transducer mounting board and that thing is never coming off.Quote:
Originally Posted by artcarney_agr
Does the 4200 come in clear? Wouldn't mind white if I can do a neat job I guess.
I think I tried to find clear, but I think it was only available in black or white. I just went with the white, only needed a 3 oz tube and it was like $15 on Amazon.Quote:
Originally Posted by scout-j-m
Thanks man!Quote:
Originally Posted by artcarney_agr
Thankfully I'm a procrastinator and never installed this. Bought a bigger motor recently that came with a Panther tilt and trim unit I want to use instead. The Panther has BIA standard outboard holes while that jackplate was a smaller square pattern. The motor I got is a longshaft and I will be mounting on a 15" transom flatbottom though so I am going to install the Panther to the transom and then create a riser for the motor out of aluminum angle that will attach to the Panther motor bracket.
The hiccup I have with the Panther is that my transom has a hat section stiffener that runs horizontally across it and is right in the way of where the lower bolts need to go. In theory I could mount the unit 2-3 inches lower and miss it, however, the unit has 7" of setback so I will actually be needing to raise the motor as much as possible take advantage of that. I'm thinking about lining up the bottom fastener holes right in the middle of the hat section and bolting up through them. I don't think that will compromise the strength of the stiffener and I would add a fender washer on top of it to distribute the load of it since its hollow (however the bottom bolts should not see much if any tension imo).
My options are kind of limited so I will likely do this no matter what but still wondering if anyone had any comments? To be honest tapping into the stiffener doesn't worry me as much as having the top bolts too near to top edge. Best I can tell is the hole will be totally under the lip but the washer may catch on it a bit.
Attachment 352636
On the top, find a piece of flat stock same width as top cap and same thickness about 14 inches long. Drill it and put your bolts through it. That way you can use some large thick washers that would fit flush over both plates.
On the bottom, drill your holes with a long small drill bit. Then take a hole saw and from inside drill a big enough hole you could get a socket and nut through the hole to install onto the mounting bolt. Then drill the proper hole for mounting bolt. That way you can tighten nut down on solid transom and your not going to really compromise strength of that beam.
Those are both great ideas! Thanks Cray.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cray
Got it installed Saturday afternoon. Did as suggested and cut 1 - 3/8" holes in the stiffener to accommodate a 3/4" deep well socket and that worked great. I should be able to find a closed grommet to put over it as a cap. For the top, instead of using flat stock, I found some old grade 8 oversized flat washers that matched the thickness of the transom cap and trimmed of an edge with a cutting wheel so that they slid over the bolt and shimmed it even with the cap. Then installed large washers like normal.
Good deal, that should have it plenty stout.
Thanks for the help Cray.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cray