Just got a project boat. It has an '87 Mariner (Mercury) 115hp with t/t.
Hasn't been run in 10+ years. How would you proceed? Where to start ?
Thanks in advance!
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Just got a project boat. It has an '87 Mariner (Mercury) 115hp with t/t.
Hasn't been run in 10+ years. How would you proceed? Where to start ?
Thanks in advance!
I have a 1989 Nissan 70 that sat up 9-10 years and just got it back from the shop. They rebuilt carbs, changed plugs, replaced impeller, replaced fuel pump, and just checked everything else. Went and picked it up yesterday. Cost $820. Wasn't too happy, since I told him to call if it was over $250, but I put it in the water yesterday and it ran like it was new. Before took it to the shop I cleaned the fuel tank real good and filled it up with fresh fuel. I also replaced the fuel line and added a clear inline fuel filter. New battery and checked all of the wires. I also made sure it turned over first.
Drain the fuel tank with a fuel syphon pump. Drain the carbs and make sure the float isnt stuck. Pull each plug and make sure they are not rusty and are the correct plug for the motor. Use fresh gas with lots of seafoam added to it and see if you can get it to start. My guess is it will start right off. Watch the water pump, make sure it is peeing... Most likely it has dried and cracked and will need replaced, youll also want to replace the gear lube in the lower unit but that's not required when test starting.Quote:
Originally Posted by skunked again
Here is how I would do it. Pull flywheel cover, find a socket that fits flywheel not, pull plugs, trim up, spray some kind of penetrating oil into the cylinders. You kinda want to fog the cylinder walls, let sit couple three hours, then take a ratchet and that socket, rock the crank one direction then the other very slowly and just a tiny bit each time. Going a little further each time until you have a full stroke. Then spray cylinders again while rotating the crank. This is to insure you don’t have any rings stuck to cylinder walls lus if you have any corrosion it should clean them up pretty good. Please do all this with battery disconnected. Then with plugs still out spin motor over with starter in short bursts to blow as much of the oil out as you can. From there you want to make sure carbs are clean fuel is clean and new plugs. Then put in water barrel or muffs and crank it up. If it does just let it idle for a bit until your pretty sure all your moving parts are lubed back up.. do not ever rev up a outboard on muffs. Good way to blow one up. From there if she seems to run good proceed to replacing water pump, change gear lube then water test.Quote:
Originally Posted by skunked again
I used motor oil and let it soak overnight. Time for it to penetrate the rings and coat the walls. Rock back and forth and follow the other tips. Plus I would drain the lower unit and replace the oil. Also pull the lower unit and replace the water pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cray
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Thank you to all !
It lives ! I followed the above-mentioned advice. Thank you to all !
Your lucky. I took an old motor of mine, 1970 Johnson 50 hp, to the shop. They did a compression check and turned out fine so started working on it and quit to call me. Told me it would run about $1500 to get it going. Didn't want to spend it so the bill was $230 and all I know for sure is it has good compression!
After the time and money spent, the wind got me yesterday. Rolled it down the hill. This is what I came home from work to yesterday.
And I thought the other day was bad for us, washing machine quit. You win!!
Well that's not good!
She’ll be fine, drag her out and get back to it.
That is terrible luck though!
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Looks like the perfect place for a ramp.Quote:
Originally Posted by AWH02311
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