What to do after snagged on a tree limb

I found that it is very hard to get jig back once it is snagged on tree limbs when I fish creek with sunken trees.

My fishing buddy use 30lb braid with 20 lb mono and single or double 1/8 jig. He just pull to straighten the jig once snagged.
Bend it back and continue fishing.

I assume that this style of fishing works with vertical jigging.
But if I cast the jig, I am afraid that thicker line and heavier jig will affect presentation.

What is your suggestion for fishing creek around limbs?
Vertical fishing (kayak fishing) vs. cast & retrieve (bank fishing)
Thanks.




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Here's what I do: I use 4# mono and take 100's of jigs.

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Originally Posted by FurFlyin

Here's what I do: I use 4# mono and take 100's of jigs.

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This ^^^^^

Weedless jigs will help prevent hanging up in the first place.

6lb mono will straighten some hooks.

Still, just accept the fact that you're gonna lose jigs.

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Originally Posted by parfume4

But if I cast the jig, I am afraid that thicker line and heavier jig will affect presentation.

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It will affect presentation.

Jigs are cheap, though. It's worth losing a few if that means more bites.

Remember: your goal is to get bites, not to come back with the same number of jigs you started with. ;)

Have you tried any light wire jig hooks?


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Thanks for reply.
I am less concerned about losing jig than the time spent on retie jig.
I guess I need some advice on how to get hook out of snag.
I was doing pretty good when fishing rock bottom, like under the dam. With 1/32jig, it is not hard to get out of the snag. But when hooked on limbs, it seems that it always get snagged. Any try seems get even worse. Typically I have to retie the leader (6lbs FC) and jig.
Last trip, I tried to tie 20lbs mono leader to 10lb braid main line and then loop knot to tie 1/16 jig. I can straighten the hook when snagged but not sure whether such thick leader affects the presentation.


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I'm going to get me some plug knockers and try them out this year. I agree with you it isn't the cost of the jig there is just something aggravating about losing them.

If you are fishing from a boat,slowly ease back over the spot of the snagged jig.By approaching the snagged jig through the back door,you chances of popping the jig free greatly increases.It is better to circle the snagged spot this will aid in not spooking other fish.

Try raising rod over head with tip of rod at about 2 o clock. Grab line between top of reel and first eye and pull back and snap it several times, this works sometimes.

I'm with Atimm on this one. I've used weedless jigheads for well over 30yrs (casting).

One of the biggest mistakes made, that causes a lot of snags on wood cover, is trying to jerk the jig over or off the cover (even when using a weedless jighead). What usually happens is you just dig the hook deeper into the wood, and if your line isn't strong enough to bend the hook open ... then it will likely break.
What I do is constantly watch my line as it comes back towards me, which tells me two things --- I got bit (line jumps or moves oddly) or the line is no longer inching its way towards me (line is running over some obstacle). When I see the second thing happening, I start to pay even more attention to the "feel" thru the rod tip. When my reeling in starts to cause the rod tip to start to bend forward, I stop reeling, as I know that my jig has come to the object that the line is running over. I simply drop the rod tip about 6" and watch for the line to straighten out, indicating that the jig has dropped down .... then I lift (not jerk) the rod tip about 12" and hold it there for a couple of seconds before dropping it back down to its normal position and begin reeling again. That is unless I get a hit after bumping the jig over the object ... which does happen on occasion.

The deal is ... the jighead is weighted so that the hook is pointing upwards on the retrieve. When an object is encountered with the line, and the jig reaches that object, the weight of the hook causes the jig to fall over and that makes it more likely for the hook point to come into contact with the object. What I do is simply let the jig fall back away from the object and then the lifting of the rod tip twice that distance will cause the jig to "bounce" over the object (with the hook pointing up) and then start to pendulum swing back towards me. And like I said ... I tend to kinda "go on point" when that happens, because I've had many instances where I got a hit once the jig cleared the object and began falling/swinging back towards me. (musta got their attention or hacked them off :dono )

And NO, it doesn't ALWAYS work nonono ... so, when it don't and I can't get the rod tip on the other side of the snag & pop it off, I just usually break the line or straighten the hook pulling on it.

I use the Improved Clinch Knot, rather than a loop knot, for the simple reason that I don't want that "loop" to be the first thing to hang on the wood cover ... and when I'm casting a jig, 99% of the time it's towards some form of wood cover.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by parfume4

I found that it is very hard to get jig back once it is snagged on tree limbs when I fish creek with sunken trees.

My fishing buddy use 30lb braid with 20 lb mono and single or double 1/8 jig. He just pull to straighten the jig once snagged.
Bend it back and continue fishing.

I assume that this style of fishing works with vertical jigging.
But if I cast the jig, I am afraid that thicker line and heavier jig will affect presentation.

What is your suggestion for fishing creek around limbs?
Vertical fishing (kayak fishing) vs. cast & retrieve (bank fishing)
Thanks.




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Amazon.com : KSEIBI 143015 Long Reach Cut and Hold Bypass Pruner Max Cutting 1/2 inch (5.0 ft - 1.5 m) : Garden & Outdoor

I hate to break off a jig, BUT- sometimes it is the best way to go. If fish are on your fishing spot, break off and mark the spot, come back later! What ever you do not, just sit there and try to shake or whatever the limb or log. When you return, the crappie will be there!!

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Originally Posted by CrappiePappy

I'm with Atimm on this one. I've used weedless jigheads for well over 30yrs (casting).

One of the biggest mistakes made, that causes a lot of snags on wood cover, is trying to jerk the jig over or off the cover (even when using a weedless jighead). What usually happens is you just dig the hook deeper into the wood, and if your line isn't strong enough to bend the hook open ... then it will likely break.
What I do is constantly watch my line as it comes back towards me, which tells me two things --- I got bit (line jumps or moves oddly) or the line is no longer inching its way towards me (line is running over some obstacle). When I see the second thing happening, I start to pay even more attention to the "feel" thru the rod tip. When my reeling in starts to cause the rod tip to start to bend forward, I stop reeling, as I know that my jig has come to the object that the line is running over. I simply drop the rod tip about 6" and watch for the line to straighten out, indicating that the jig has dropped down .... then I lift (not jerk) the rod tip about 12" and hold it there for a couple of seconds before dropping it back down to its normal position and begin reeling again. That is unless I get a hit after bumping the jig over the object ... which does happen on occasion.

The deal is ... the jighead is weighted so that the hook is pointing upwards on the retrieve. When an object is encountered with the line, and the jig reaches that object, the weight of the hook causes the jig to fall over and that makes it more likely for the hook point to come into contact with the object. What I do is simply let the jig fall back away from the object and then the lifting of the rod tip twice that distance will cause the jig to "bounce" over the object (with the hook pointing up) and then start to pendulum swing back towards me. And like I said ... I tend to kinda "go on point" when that happens, because I've had many instances where I got a hit once the jig cleared the object and began falling/swinging back towards me. (musta got their attention or hacked them off :dono )

And NO, it doesn't ALWAYS work nonono ... so, when it don't and I can't get the rod tip on the other side of the snag & pop it off, I just usually break the line or straighten the hook pulling on it.

I use the Improved Clinch Knot, rather than a loop knot, for the simple reason that I don't want that "loop" to be the first thing to hang on the wood cover ... and when I'm casting a jig, 99% of the time it's towards some form of wood cover.

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Well explained! Good to have the mental picture for snag and the way to try to overcome it. Have to try some time to really learn this trick.



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Quote:

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Originally Posted by trypman1

I hate to break off a jig, BUT- sometimes it is the best way to go. If fish are on your fishing spot, break off and mark the spot, come back later! What ever you do not, just sit there and try to shake or whatever the limb or log. When you return, the crappie will be there!!

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Agreed


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Good explanation CrappiePappy! Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FurFlyin

Here's what I do: I use 4# mono and take 100's of jigs.

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He is telling the truth. He got enough lead to pour up 34,000

Just plan on loosing some jigs and have a good time

Use light wire hooks or weedless

All good info, and to each his own. I use light jigs and loop knots and since I started using the loop I hang less. When I do, I go back to it and past it on slack line and it usually comes out. I use 2lb line and 4lb leader so I don’t like breaking off and retyping the whole rig. The snap the line thing hasn’t worked for me yet, but the light line probably changes that.

When vertical jigging shallow I use a 11' rod with 1/8 to 1/4 jigs ,when hung, if 3or4 sec. shaking doesn't free it, reel down to it on a tight line you will usually hear or feel a click when you reach the jig and you can shake or push it free 90% .When jigging over 10' deep and can't shake or reach the jig I use a used spark plug over the line and tap it closed with side cutters and slide it down the line and shake, that will usually free 90% of the time ,when you reel it up just use the side cutters to open the spark plug . When casting shallow I use a weedless jig. When using crank baits I have a home made lure retriever that will save 95% of lures. Lose more crank baits to muskies than snags. when casting shallow using a cork use a weedless jig if you are fishing heavy cover , i hate to fish that way but sometimes it catches a lots of crappie.













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Originally Posted by wolfhnd

I agree with you it isn't the cost of the jig there is just something aggravating about losing them.

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and I find that part a hard habit to break :Rofl

A friend showed me this. Take a lighter and heat up the bend in the hook before putting the plastic on. It will bend most of the time with 6 lb line after you take the temper out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Techno2000

Amazon.com : KSEIBI 143015 Long Reach Cut and Hold Bypass Pruner Max Cutting 1/2 inch (5.0 ft - 1.5 m) : Garden & Outdoor

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great idea, I didn’t know there were such things. Thanks

I've given this some though and had to go back to my youth for the simple answer. Easy. Dive into the water and retrieve your jig. Did it all the time when I was a kid, hooks were not so chea,,,inexpensive back then! I can proudly say I never lost a hook of any kind in a snag! :-)

Exactly. Jigs are expendable, that's why they're so cheap. Speaking of which I think I need more! LOL

Here's a method that I've had some success with. It's similar to what Kelvin was referring to (or the same thing).
10 Best Fishing Hacks - YouTube

When jigging in deep brush I never jig out past my rod length. 10' rod never fish past 9 ft. That way you kinda lean down and out and pick the jig up and over the limbs. I have heard it described as a bow to the crowd.

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When jigging in deep brush I never jig out past my rod length. 10' rod never fish past 9 ft. That way you kinda lean down and out and pick the jig up and over the limbs. I have heard it described as a bow to the crowd.

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