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This may be helpful,
Experiment toFind the correct weight to get the line to the correct angle, and how much line you put out
If you get it right, it is precise and repeatable Attachment 328513
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Never thought I’d need one of these to fish but at least it isn’t $1200
Attachment 328518
You are making it to hard!!!!!:dono:popcorn
I may make a simple angle checker from 2 pieces of pine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lloakley930
If nothing else, its something to play with and just possibly useful
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I know, i always do.Quote:
Originally Posted by STUMP HUNTER
But l will play around with it a bit.
Who knows, might be better for me.
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I can always do what i did last year,
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Brett, I'd rather just use and once of lead and get it down to where I want it and bump along keeping the line from my memory bank at 90 degrees or straight down as possible. If you are tight lining the whole purpose is to have you lines straight down not out behind you. If your lines are out behind the boat then you are at a stage of long lining so your scale is workable with a jig and or minnows. Length of line out plus speed, plus or minus, equals depth. You are a guru for sure! :highfiveQuote:
Originally Posted by brettw
Just make one like the one pictured above with the metal work behind and attach the line at the top. Too much work for jigs though. Maybe to use on cranks that don’t have a dive chart.
Attachment 328527
I agree. This is for longline.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDawgg
Guys. I think this can be useful. Thnk about what the angle looks like when u longline. Its darned flat. 15 , 20 degrees. Im making a simple tool to eyeball it untill i got it memorized is all you need.
Get your formula at X speed, and its done.
Im guessing depth is more important than speed . Getti g the jig right in the zone. Most important
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They’re are other variables not mentioned that can contribute to drag, which in turn will alter depth and angle. Wind, current, line diameter, jig head shape, jig body profile, knot used, water clarity, pollen, rod angle and height from water. Just use a single 1/16 ounce jig on 6 lb. test. Cast out all rods as far as possible. Boat speed is the only item of concern. .8 to 1.0 mph will have baits running 10-12 feet deep. You want deeper, add split shot. Shallower, change to 1/32 as I would do, or increase troll speed. Simplicity is just less stressful, which equates to a more enjoyable time on the water.
What would you run to get 1/8 to 20' ?
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Here’s another easy way. Put your rod in holder at front of boat with lure out desired distance behind boat. Measure line drop at back of boat. Assuming you know length (L) of your boat, now you know depth per feet of line (L) out. Works well for short line distances. After some length, line drag in water will limit depth. Old trollers trick.
That's a tricky question, but one that could be quickly determined with a little prefishing experiment. One would think that if a long cast with a 1/16th trolled at .8 to 1.0 mph runs at 10 to 12 feet deep that a jig weighing twice as much would run 20 to 24 feet going the same speed, but that's not the case. My experience tells me there's only about a 4 foot increase in depth due to line angle and resistance. To get the additional 4 to 6 feet of depth one must either add weight, slow the boat, or increase the amount of line out. Since more line out will equate to more line tangles and break offs, and adding weight doesn't seem to be what your after, slowing the boat is your best plan of attack. That's where experimentation comes in. Put a couple of rods out with 1/8 ounce jigs of choice. Troll in water that ranges from 16 to 22 feet in depth. Alter trolling speeds while watching carefully at what speed and water depth the jigs start bouncing on the bottom. Due this several times taking notes. After a few test pulls you should have the required information and are set to go catch those elusive deep fish.
Quote:
Originally Posted by brettw