Spider Rigging - How-to - good references?

Hello crappie gurus! I'm a new guy here. I'm a long time bass tournament guy from Kentucky and Barkley Lakes. With 3 kids now, I've basically gotten away from bass tournament fishing the last 4 or 5 years and have resorted more to just going after whatever is biting best for fun. I usually spend the spring following the bass spawn cycle, the summer trolling for white bass and sauger and occasionally running trotlines for catfish, and then the fall I deer hunt and then spend the winter duck hunting. Crappie fishing is one thing that's missing from my activities, and I'd like to change that. In the past I just couldn't ever put the bass rod down and switch over to crappie, I'm trying to change that now.

Doug Wynn gave a great seminar this past weekend in Murray, I'm definitely going to try some of the things he does with regard to longlining, planer boards, and trolling cranks for crappie once the water gets a little warmer.

In the meantime, I want to try and tackle spider rigging. I tried it once, got highly tangled up multiple times, and very frustrated, and haven't tried it since. I'm going to try it again, with that being said are there some good go-to instructional articles, or videos, or old posts on this website that would help out a newbie? I'd like to know the basic strategies to use, how to deal with wind, and the most common riggings for live bait and artificial for spider rigging.

With bass fishing, water temp was pretty much the baseline for what you used and where you started looking for bass, are crappie the same way? For crappie is it like 40-50 degrees you spider rig, 50-60 you longline, and 60+ you troll?

Lots of videos on YouTube on spider rigging. Have to weed through them to find some that actually talk about rigging and the how to’s but they will help. Next thing is find someone to get in the boat with.

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Originally Posted by Cray

Lots of videos on YouTube on spider rigging. Have to weed through them to find some that actually talk about rigging and the how to’s but they will help. Next thing is find someone to get in the boat with.

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Yeah, the "weeding through" part is why I made this post. There's so many out there that who knows if what those folks are saying is legit or not.

This fella sure makes it look easy! Is flat calm water necessary for spider rigging? Do you even go out there if there's any wind?



https://youtu.be/JZT8ejy6pNk

Hire a seasoned guide that specializes in the method your wanting to learn, or you can do like most fishermen that have a little free time and start the learning curve.

The web does have lots of info out there but, I'm sure if you'll ask around most crappie fishermen are more than happy to explain/ teach you "Their" method.

Time on the water only speeds up that curve..

Best advice I can give is don't start with 8 poles for sure. Until you figure out the mechanics 3 or 4 is enough. I still look like a clumsy, drunken baboon trying to land a fish or get a hook unsagged.

Also, line choice is a big deal. I like 14lb fluorescent because it has the guts to pull a rig out of brush and you can see the line as soon as it starts to move or not move. Pre rigged leaders with snap swivels let you clean up the results of a tangle fast. Pre-rigging is especially important if you like lower test leaders.

Keep a pair of pliers handy to straighten hooks back out.

Is Ed Duke on here (the guy in the video above)? I love his videos, I watched a couple hours worth yesterday, very entertaining and informative.

As a Yankee, spider rigging was foreign to me when I first started making crappie trips to Louisiana. After a few trips single poleing, I bought some Driftmaster rod holders. I started with two poles until I got the hang of controlling the boat, then added one more rod. Three is enough for me for the time being but I'm sure I'll add a 4th some day. Guarantee I'll never go to 8 rods. Bad enough getting 3 tangled, can't imagine with 8.

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Originally Posted by artcarney_agr

Is Ed Duke on here (the guy in the video above)? I love his videos, I watched a couple hours worth yesterday, very entertaining and informative.

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He sells the southern crappie rods you hear about. Call him, it will be worth it.

I have spider-rigged for more years than I care to count and love to fish that way. Sure, I fish just about any way you can catch a crappie, but spider-rigging is my number one way. I have had the chance to teach spider-rigging to several folks and here are some things that I always point out. First, it works best with a variable speed trolling motor. Being able to adjust your speed in minute degrees is important. It also works best with rods no shorter than 12 ft. I know some folks do it with 10 ft and even shorter, but a minimum rod length of 12 ft allows you to space your rod tips farther apart, thereby lessening the chance of tangles when you hook a fish. I prefer 14 ft rods as an all-around length, though I have a set of 16's I use in the Spring when the fish are shallow (the longer rods seem to spook fish less by getting that extra space between hook and boat). Lots of fishermen pair their rods with spinning reels, and there is certainly nothing wrong with that. I, myself, prefer baitcasting reels of the low-profile variety. I prefer them for two reasons: 1) They have a quick line retrieve which makes a difference when fishing deep, and 2) when a fish is hooked, I can easily depress the thumbar and control the way I let out line. This is especially helpful when fishing shallow with 16 ft rods. Guys who use spinning reels do the same by pulling line out against the drag, but I just find the baitcaster works easier for me. I load my baitcasters with 20lb to 30lb high-vis yellow braided line, at the end of which I tie a small snap swivel. I make my trolling rigs by taking a 4 ft piece of 6lb P-line fluorocarbon (my preference). At one end I tie a very small swivel, which will connect to the snap swivel. About 10 inches up from the other end of the leader, I usually place a 1/2 oz barrel weight ( I run the line through it 3 times so it doesn't slide). Then I tie a #1 duro-lock to the end, which allows me to easily change jigs or hooks. I keep a number of these rigged and in my boat. This set up also allows me to quickly change leaders without having to stop and tie everything while on the water. I know some guys fish with two hooks or jigs on the line, and I do, too, if fishing a tournament, but if you are just learning to spider-rig, believe me when I say it is much easier to learn with one hook on a line. In fact, I fish with one hook or jig per line myself most of the time when pleasure fishing. One other thing I'll add that is worth a try. I have learned when rigging my main line, before tying on the snap swivel, to place a small plastic bead on the line between two of the line guides on the rod (I usually put it about a foot and a half back down from the end of the pole.) THen, when a fish bites, you'll hear the bead click against the rod, which is extremely helpful when you are trying to watch several poles at once. I cant tell you how many times hearing that little "click" has helped me catch a fish.

What I shared is my basic set up for "slow" trolling. That's what I think of when I hear the term "spider-rigging." I do other types of trolling as well....pushing jigs, pushing cranks, etc. These are just my ideas on spider-rigging. They've served me well for years of fishing, both in tournaments and pleasure fishing. Other people have other ideas. But one thing is for sure, spider-rigging is a GREAT way to fish!

I like the plastic bead idea. Thanks for that tip, I'm going to use it next time I head south.

Spartannation, I use a bead about the size of a pencil eraser. I buy them in packages at Walmart. I checked my 14 ft poles a little while ago. I have them between the 4th and 5th line guides.

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Originally Posted by kyfishman

I have spider-rigged for more years than I care to count and love to fish that way. Sure, I fish just about any way you can catch a crappie, but spider-rigging is my number one way. I have had the chance to teach spider-rigging to several folks and here are some things that I always point out. First, it works best with a variable speed trolling motor. Being able to adjust your speed in minute degrees is important. It also works best with rods no shorter than 12 ft. I know some folks do it with 10 ft and even shorter, but a minimum rod length of 12 ft allows you to space your rod tips farther apart, thereby lessening the chance of tangles when you hook a fish. I prefer 14 ft rods as an all-around length, though I have a set of 16's I use in the Spring when the fish are shallow (the longer rods seem to spook fish less by getting that extra space between hook and boat). Lots of fishermen pair their rods with spinning reels, and there is certainly nothing wrong with that. I, myself, prefer baitcasting reels of the low-profile variety. I prefer them for two reasons: 1) They have a quick line retrieve which makes a difference when fishing deep, and 2) when a fish is hooked, I can easily depress the thumbar and control the way I let out line. This is especially helpful when fishing shallow with 16 ft rods. Guys who use spinning reels do the same by pulling line out against the drag, but I just find the baitcaster works easier for me. I load my baitcasters with 20lb to 30lb high-vis yellow braided line, at the end of which I tie a small snap swivel. I make my trolling rigs by taking a 4 ft piece of 6lb P-line fluorocarbon (my preference). At one end I tie a very small swivel, which will connect to the snap swivel. About 10 inches up from the other end of the leader, I usually place a 1/2 oz barrel weight ( I run the line through it 3 times so it doesn't slide). Then I tie a #1 duro-lock to the end, which allows me to easily change jigs or hooks. I keep a number of these rigged and in my boat. This set up also allows me to quickly change leaders without having to stop and tie everything while on the water. I know some guys fish with two hooks or jigs on the line, and I do, too, if fishing a tournament, but if you are just learning to spider-rig, believe me when I say it is much easier to learn with one hook on a line. In fact, I fish with one hook or jig per line myself most of the time when pleasure fishing. One other thing I'll add that is worth a try. I have learned when rigging my main line, before tying on the snap swivel, to place a small plastic bead on the line between two of the line guides on the rod (I usually put it about a foot and a half back down from the end of the pole.) THen, when a fish bites, you'll hear the bead click against the rod, which is extremely helpful when you are trying to watch several poles at once. I cant tell you how many times hearing that little "click" has helped me catch a fish.

What I shared is my basic set up for "slow" trolling. That's what I think of when I hear the term "spider-rigging." I do other types of trolling as well....pushing jigs, pushing cranks, etc. These are just my ideas on spider-rigging. They've served me well for years of fishing, both in tournaments and pleasure fishing. Other people have other ideas. But one thing is for sure, spider-rigging is a GREAT way to fish!

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Very nicely explained!
Start small and build up as you get comfortable, as the others have said. When the bite is on you're lucky to handle 2 or three rods!! They will all have fish on the end flopping in the boat. Oh what fun...


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I agree a lot with kyfishman.....Like kyfishman I have been doing it for a long time but now I pretty much only push but everybody has there own way and tricks. If you think you going to get serious about it go ahead and get 16ft poles and go against the norm with sinkers....Use at least 1 oz. sinkers with 16 poles and your tangles will be cut way way down... I don't do any leader any more to me it is just as easy to tie everything straight to the line. It only takes me about 1 minute to tie 2 jig heads and an egg sinker on and I only use 6 lb. line.....

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Originally Posted by spartannation

I like the plastic bead idea. Thanks for that tip, I'm going to use it next time I head south.

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I have a bunch of beads for making salmon spinners that will work nicely.

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Originally Posted by slabeye

I agree a lot with kyfishman.....Like kyfishman I have been doing it for a long time but now I pretty much only push but everybody has there own way and tricks. If you think you going to get serious about it go ahead and get 16ft poles and go against the norm with sinkers....Use at least 1 oz. sinkers with 16 poles and your tangles will be cut way way down... I don't do any leader any more to me it is just as easy to tie everything straight to the line. It only takes me about 1 minute to tie 2 jig heads and an egg sinker on and I only use 6 lb. line.....

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Egg sinker above or below the jigs? Jigs tied on with a loop knot?


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Originally Posted by GREENFISH

Egg sinker above or below the jigs? Jigs tied on with a loop knot?


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Slabeye has his sinker between the two jigs.

You run the line thru the eye of the first jig and leave a couple feet of tag line ... then pull the jig out on a loop and wrap it to make the top jig on a loop ..... then run your sinker up the line and wrap the line thru it 3-4 times .... then tie the bottom jig on the end of the tag line. (I believe that's basically how he does it)

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Originally Posted by slabeye

If you think you going to get serious about it go ahead and get 16ft poles

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I've been contemplating ordering 4 of the SCR 143T based on M R Dux seminar this past weekend.

From my many hours of reading on here and elsewhere, it seems the 14 ft is the best all around and by getting the 143T I can spider rig with them and also troll cranks later in the year. Would you or anybody else agree with this?

When I started I had bnm pro staff 12, 14 and 16 foot poles and I used them for jigs and cranks. After a year I sold all my 14ft poles. They was just the wrong length for me the way I fish and I only use 1 12ft pole and that is only with cranks. Now I use 16ft bnm jig poles for jigs and 16ft bnm power trollers and 1 12 wally Marshall for cranks....I would go to 20 ft poles but they are to heavy for me to use all the time. Everybody that fishes with me very much has ended up going to a 16ft pole too. So I got to say 16ft is the way to go.

To all, great info on spider rigging. I was at Weiss lake several years ago, and I was unaware of A MAJOR Crappie tournament while I was there on one day I was there. So, I decided on the tournament day to be a 'spectator'. I watched what ended up as the team that won the tournament. They had unique setup. Two person team, weigh in your best 10 Cappie. One man in the front of the boat sitting on what I would call a Gun Turrent (above deck level) with several long poles and trolling motor control with rod holders in his 'Turrent'. The 2nd fishing partner was in the rear of the boat. The guy in the front would catch the fish, hand the pole with fish to the back of the boat partner, he'd take the fish of, rebait and hand the pole back to the guy in the front of boat and he would put it back in the water. Best I can remember, they had a crappie about every 3-4 minutes while I was 'observing'. I watched them for about 2 hours moving through a Creek Bay and they caught a pile of fish.

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Originally Posted by Lloakley930

He sells the southern crappie rods you hear about. Call him, it will be worth it.

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I did call him, ordered some rods, reels, and tackle from the guy. Super nice guy!

He is the kind of man you enjoy doing business with