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I plan to move 2 12 volt (24 volt) trolling motor batteries from rear battery compartment to storage compartment just behind console seats. Will need to add/splice about 5' of 6 ga wire to make them reach new compartment. What would be the best thing to use for the splice connection? It will have to be done in the boat. Don't want to pull existing wires out.
I twisted mine together...soldered ... then put liquid tape on them and heat shrink. I do not like the butt splice connectors
They make a connector- not sure what it is called- that you slide in and tighten a bolt against them,very secure connection. it is a little harder to insulate though.
Thats the best way to go,solid connection without all the bulkQuote:
Originally Posted by "G"
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This is what I used. I bought two of them from a local electric supply contractor when I installed my Xi5. I wrapped with lotsa 3m tape. That was 2 to 3 years ago and I’ve had zero problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by deltarat
Just a pic. Don’t spend that much. I bought 2 pieces for around 3-5 bucks from local
electrical contractor
Maybe I've been an engineer too long, but myself, I'd run new wire. I don't like splices of any kind in high amp wire. Since you don't want to pull the existing wire out, I would use a tinned copper butt splice crimped and soldered, covered with heatshrink. For me, I mean. Your way may be different.
The best way, assuming you can would be to pull new wire.
If you cant, the only remedy is to do it as best you can.
Id be apt to solder a lug on the ends and connect them inside a small disconnect switch or other type box.
A couple people mentioned split bolts which work OK but like mentioned they are hard to insulate. Butt connectors work good too but only if you have the proper crimping tool. Pliers don't do a very good job. I've never used those 2-way connectors but they look like they would do the job. I've always used solder. Liquid tape and heat shrink is a good way to seal the connection. An even better way if you can find it is heat shrink that is coated inside with something that melts around the connection and completely waterproofs it. Know any shipyard electricians? Thats where I use to be able to get it.
This is what I used; got'em from Lowes in electrical department. They are used in underground connections and come with a thick heat shrink tubing with the waterproofing adhesive inside. These were used on 4 gauge though!
If you don't have one, and it's in a convenient place, it might be a good place for a circuit breaker. Any parts house that makes up battery cables should have large gauge heat shrink too.
Pull existing wires out run new wires all the way,#6 is cheap compared to a bad splice!
Been looking at you post from 3/18. That's exactly what I had in mind. Couple of questions, is your base tray attached to compartment floor or walls? Is everything staying put? What group size batteries you using? How's it working for ya? Thanks
jp2,
The battery tray is bolted to the wall with 3"x3" angled aluminum; it is secure there hasn't been any shifting or tipping. I run 31 series for the 24 volt trolling motor on 4 gauge (new) wire. The splice you saw in the above post was on my 12ft jon boat. It is 4 gauge and only extended 2.5 ft; that wire was left over from my big boat build.
He guys, want to thank y'all so much for the help. Going to start gathering materials tomorrow. It dawned on me that I will only need to splice negative wire. Can come out of breaker on positive wire and will not need a splice. Will be about 5' between breaker and battery. Reason for all this is to get a larger cranking/electronics battery in battery compartment.