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Is casting and counting down the jig to the desired depth to retrieve, the same as the cast n drag technique? Also do you ever drag the jig flat on the bottom like a t-rig worm for bass? I know crappie feed up, but some of you say that ain't always the case.
As far as I know, yes. I had never even heard of "cast and drag" till this thread:Quote:
Originally Posted by jay the baptist
https://www.crappie.com/crappie/main...-casting-rods/
For bass, yes. For crappie, no.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay the baptist
Sometimes during the spawn I will cast to the bank and let it bump bottom, pick it up and work it back. Otherwise, no.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay the baptist
OK. Thanks, When using a jig & bobber, do you always twitch the rig along or do you us a slow steady retrieve most times?
I don't. In shallow water, I just use a lighter jig. You'd be amazed at how well a 1/64 oz trout magnet works (with no bobber) in shallow water.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay the baptist
Depends! Slow steady retrieve when you have wave action. Otherwise I add the action. I always pause every few feet, or every yard. That momentary pause can be killer.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay the baptist
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Your question is far more complex than how you asked it... and surely must be prefaced by time of the year and particular crappie feeding tendencies at a given time of day. I know it has always been my particular preference to Carolina rig using differing weighs and differing jigs or hook/minnow combinations. I also like to push or pull baits for the most part with the bait presented at various depths in the water column. The only type of dragging presentations that I personally make is when I am using a drop shot type rig where the weights remain in contact with the bottom or other structure features. There are other times however that I have found that when jig fishing... the crappies like a pause in the retrieve when the jig is allowed to fall to the bottom and then flutter back to life as it resumes the swimming action. There are other times when they prefer the bait changing directions or speeding up drastically which triggers the bite.
The way I’ve described my method is “ pitch and glide”. This has the jig doing a pendulum effect as it comes back to you and you’re doing the countdown. Every time I tried to drag the bottom, I donated a jig. I seem to find any little snag. A hesitation in the retrieve or a one inch drop and return of the rod tip triggers some for me too. What DBD said about the 1/64 has a lot of merit. They are so light and fall so slow that it triggers lots of strikes on its own. I will also say that I have usually tried new methods when alone and also pay closer attention to the results. Good luck establishing your style.
I’m not a crappie fisherman.....but I catch several thousand crappie each year. I am an avid UL angler and chase what ever can stretch 2# test line. When I say I’m not a crappie fisherman what I mean is for many on here that will be just about all they chase using different methods other than cast and retrieve. All I do is cast and retrieve using a 1/64 ounce Trout Magnet and many times will up it to 1/32 when I am fishing for crappie. I constantly twitch the Magnet and it gets me great results. I too have never heard of “cast and drag” until this thread. As others have said find the depth. In this video I used a 1/32 jig head. On days they were only about 4-6 feet deep I switched to the 1/64. If you check my other videos of me catching KY bass I am creeping the Trout Magnet slowly across the bottom. There were crappie in the same spot....but they were only about 6 feet deep. I chose to keep it on the bottom because I wanted to tangle with Spotted bass so I let it sink all the way to the bottom.
Regards
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there area million variables on answers to the question I think ...or 2 …..casting and dragging a road runner works sometimes . casting and free falling a jig with no float and reeling works sometimes . casting and slowly dragging a float works sometimes . casting and not dragging the float works sometimes . casting and twitching the float and not dragging works sometimes . casting and dragging and twitching the float works sometimes .and yes casting and bumping the bottom works sometimes as well .
so in synopsis I would say try all the above and any variable you can think of . some of it depends on where and when and some of it is just a guess till you get bit .
Hard to drag a 1/16 or 1/32 jig across the bottom without getting 3-4 inches off the bottom so a crappies eyes that is on the bottom could and would strike one as drug across the bottom . As far as ultra lite spinning reels go , they will handle large fish on 4 lb. test . Attachment 325882
Special K , could you elaborate on Carolina rigging for crappie? I'm new to a lot the techniques mentioned here.
usually I single pole fish with jigs and tubes. Have never fished crappie on bottom.
I wouldn't want to do anything to hi-jack this thread... but because it is so closely related to the thread topic I will provide reference to some previous CDC threads at https://www.crappie.com/crappie/main...a-rig-crappie/ and you can also do a google search on "CAROLINA RIGGING FOR CRAPPIE" and there are many articles with tons of good info. Don't be misled into believing that the Carolina rig is only for fishing on the bottom. Whether I am pushing or pulling baits... at almost any depth in the water column... the Carolina Rig is by far my favorite tactical presentation under many different conditions and when you continue your research into this... you will soon understand why.Quote:
Originally Posted by Speckalator
Carolina rigging or dragging a jig on bottom for crappie is new to me. Might try it sometime. Use this for bass a lot.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay the baptist
Thanks to Special K for the link.
Good video Alphahawk! You got a real honey hole there.
Thanks to each one of you for sharing you knowledge & wisdom. I learn something everyday on this site.
Have a wonderful Happy New Year. Blessings!!
Coulda fooled me!:yikesQuote:
I’m not a crappie fisherman.....but I catch several thousand crappie each year.
One of the most successful lures / presentations I start with are straight tail grubs like the Crappie Magnet with cone shaped split tail; 1 3/4" cut from the tail end of a bass finesse worm or Slider Worm or those I make myself. With each design, the action is varied on slow retrieves along with rod tip twitches, pauses and glides. This can be worked at any depth.
Another factor is line diameter and type. I rarely use mono but instead like a light braid with a 1' leader of 4-6 lb test fluorocarbon. I believe best lure action is accomplished as well as the ability to cast longer distances to cover water, feel the strike and keep the fish hooked.
Float fishing in my experience works better in my local waters when the temperature is above 60 degrees. I'm sure it would work using the above lures in colder water, but I like direct contact in order to feel light strikes. By light strikes I mean feeling for a change in lure speed as it's retrieved. A slight nothingness-feel is all it takes much of the time after which raising the rod to the side and taking line slack out forces the fish to hook itself, either in a panic or showing the lure who's boss if the lure pops out.
Slow and unsteady retrieves along with the above get the most fish where I fish and many fish species. There is no such thing as a crappie lure or panfish lure. A good lure in a proper size range used with a good presentation catch just about everything.