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Who is a #Block Head# as in concrete.
Long story short, my garage floor has a slope AWAY from the drain, so as the truck & car thaw, and ice and snow melt, it doesn’t flow towards the drain.
It’s been like that since creation.
Would a sealant, or coating or multiple coatings of something be enough to #Raise# the low parts enough so that it might slope towards the drain?
Squeegee is getting old, any ideas?
OE
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OE how much do you need to raise the floor?
Also how much area?
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The floor is not going to raise, its 28x30 and 8 inches thick.
Looking from the front to the back, on the right side it slopes right to the service door to the house.
When it was put in, the heavy guy was on the right, he should have been in the middle.
I was thinking a epoxy coating on that side might fill in the slope or something, but thought I would ask.
Someone has to know more than Google, or have a better idea.
I wouldn’t think it’s a whole lot as it’s mostly pretty level.
OE
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I have seen people cut small trenches if you will that will take the water to the drain.If eight inches thick,won’t hurt the slab.How much higher is it than the drain?Most guys I’ve seen lately put the drain above all else,don’t understand.
Okay, here’s what you do:
1.) contact a realtor to sell your house and garage.
2.) while waiting for house to sell, have your 3 builder friends (Jerry Rich and myself) build a new flaw free domicile so you have no more floor, drywall, roof, siding etc problems......
How’s that for an answer? No......
OE, what you want to do in my opinion is build up your concrete. I’ve seen it done by concrete finishing companies in factory buildings. It is very expensive, they put down epoxy then a layer of sand followed by another layer of epoxy and sand......and so on to raise to desired height.
Other than that, rent a jackhammer and bust out your floor and re pour to slope to the drain......again expensive.
So what’s my best advice for you?????
Buy a squeegee and continue to do it the way you have been while continue to cuss out whoever didn’t pour you floor correctly to begin with.....don’t forget to drown those sorrows with a couple beers. You’re still money ahead!
Redfin has a option that would fit somewhere between the removal of your floor and a squeegee (with beer) option.
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If it's pooling in one area you could do as redfin suggested make some some cuts in the concrete and angle them towards the drain. I do concrete sawing and drilling and have done this for several customers over the years. I usually recommend 1/4" wide cut or cuts depending on how big the pool is, lines are scored from 1/2" deep from pooling point and have fall on the cuts down to about 1" or a little better leading to the drain area. You have to make sure to keep the cut lines clean of dirt and as mentioned this only works where water is pooling in one specific area.
Ironically enough, the concrete poured walls, and the slab itsself are the only parts of the garage i did NOT perform myself. I took some pictures this AM, but they are on my phone, I will upload them later.Quote:
Originally Posted by Just Steve
Steve, if I ever win the lottery, Ill have you build me a house. It will either be in Muskegon, or Saginaw.. :)
OE
As snubby suggests, I would go with a diversion cut. Depending on the slop from the lower side back to the drain, you might be able to get away with running it back towards the drain. Obviously, your cut would get deeper as you move back towards the drain. If however this would prove to be too much, I would simply make a diversion cut on the lower side, put in a sump crock, and drain the water out the back of the garage and not even worry about connecting it to the drain. This would be your easiest and cheapest option!
You can rent a good cement saw at a rental place. Not a chainsaw type saw but an actual walk behind saw with water attachment. This will give you the straightest cut and allow you to be a little more precise in your depth. You could also create a "V" cut in the concrete to a collection location (sump) and then put in a drain. Another option would be a trough cut whereas you creat a trough for the water to channel. You can cover it with grating. These cuts could also be performed with a quality angle grinder and a good diamond blade while following a red chalk line snapped on the floor. It would however take you considerable more time and require a bit more precision on the part of the operator.
Do you know if they put in any mesh when pouring that floor? My bet is that you are getting sag in the concrete.
How much of a slope is it?
As stated above, if the water runs from East to West, I would run a diversion cut from North to South on the low side about 2 feet from the wall. Pick the lowest overall corner (North Or South) and put in your collection area. It doesn't have to be much, 6x6, 8x8, depending on the amount of water you get. This would be your collection area (sump) that you attach your drain to. Basically, you are taking all the water flowing from the east to the west, and moving it from North to South into one central location. Not as hard as it sounds actually. Could probably done with a rental saw, a couple hours of work, and less than 100 bucks. I've made these cuts in basements before.
Here is a photo, that white stuff is snow piled on the drain for easy reference.
I’m the second photo, you can see, I have a 4x8 treated board on the floor with the entry carpet over it.
If we don’t do that, the carpet is soaked and flooded.
Water seems to want to go there.
I have the squeegee already, thought I would invoke the online think tank for ideas....... ;)
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Attachment 323010
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By the door to the house, have someone use a core cutter and cut a 4" hole through the floor, overdig it and add pea stone then install a 4" round floor drain. The water will seep into the ground slowly.
Guess my verbiage wasn’t as concise as I thought.Quote:
Originally Posted by Redge
How much do you need to raise the top surface for it to drain properly?
I had in mind to use a 2 part urethane system.
Hardens in 5 minutes and is machinable , here is a link for you to check out.
https://www.reynoldsam.com/product-c...thane-plastic/
I have used this to pour/level/fill thresholds on concrete.
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What about renting a concrete grinder, and grind down those high areas between the water and drain
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Self leveling floor resurface. It's not expensive at all.
A grinder was my 1st thought when i read your 1st post...I've seen that done to take high spots out of a floor that would puddle...