What is the slowest speed you can pull cranks at? And still have them diving? I've gone as slow as 1.4 but never any slower. And is that speed the same if you're using 300's and 200's?
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What is the slowest speed you can pull cranks at? And still have them diving? I've gone as slow as 1.4 but never any slower. And is that speed the same if you're using 300's and 200's?
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About 1.2
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I have cranked at 1.0 and mixed jigs catching fish on both.
I know you folks down south fish different than us northern folks but I troll in lakes that have many different species of fish. You might be trolling for walleyes and end up catching crappies and bass. On a recent trip last week I caught crappies trolling 2.5 mph down to 2.2 mph. With the warm water temps the fish are just waiting for the bait to come by. Why give them an opportunity to inspect your lure. Drive the lure through the water gives them less chance to refuse it. The reflex bite will happen trolling faster. Plus you will cover much more water so your presenting your bait-lure to more fish.
A slow steady trolling speed will present the lure in a slow steady rhythm while a faster trolling speed will make the lure more erratic. A larger profile lure trolled a higher speed will give off a vibration that the fish can zero in on through the use of their lateral line and eye sight.
On the Infisherman web site there is an article about using larger size lures for crappies which I found out to be true many times. I use lures up to 6 inches and catch a lot of crappies trolling. I compare the fish to us. If your hungry you like to sit down to a full dinner (large lure) but if your not real hungry you'll walk past a bowl of nuts and take a few and pop them in your mouth ( small lure). So in essences bigger lures using faster trolling speed targets more active fish.
The reason I mention the larger lures is that you folks down south seem fixated on Bandits. I'm sure they are a good lure and produce some great catches of crappies but why not change up in lure profile and size and see what happens.
G is right. However, some crankbaits action will seem to produce better on a certain day. I don’t get hung up on speed. I let the fish tell me what they want. My rule of thumb is if it’s working, don’t change and if it isn’t working, stop doing it. All good advise in above responses though.
I agree with action being important. I will drag wide wobble cranks or go to jigs if the wide cranks fail. I like wiggle wart and Norman actions.Quote:
Originally Posted by crp4570
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I always start out pulling cranks at 1.8....if nothing is hitting I change speeds....anywhere from 1.2 to 2.2 works for me. And I do have some larger baits that I use sometimes too.
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That was what I was wondering. Just didn't put it in the right words. What is the lowest speed you can pull cranks and still get the vibrations off of it. I can't imagine me cranking a reel at them speeds though. I have tried pulling at .8 and wasn't getting any vibration in the tip of my pole. It was diving but I didn't have the visual on the tip. Ya'll have confirmed my thoughts.
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I have pushed cranks at .8 and had luck.
You do realize that turning the reel handle one time per second (at only 12" of line retrieved per handle turn) is retrieving the crank at almost 0.7mph :yikes (1ft/sec = 0.6818mph)Quote:
Originally Posted by Pithon
Not that the vibrations at low speeds aren't important, they are. My concern at slow speed is not properly hooking fish. When one is pushing cranks with 25 or so feet of line out, they have the ability to somewhat set the hook on a bite. It's tough to set the hook with 50-80-100 feet of line out at slow speeds, even with braid, when pulling.
I feel if I have to drop down below 1.3-1.4mph, I'll get the longline gear out.
No. I didn't realize. To much math involved for fishing. LolQuote:
Originally Posted by CrappiePappy
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