How many of you use a jig under a slip float?
1. If you do, what’s the smallest jig weight that will work as in pulling through the float.
2. Can you see a bite as it’s falling?
Thanks
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How many of you use a jig under a slip float?
1. If you do, what’s the smallest jig weight that will work as in pulling through the float.
2. Can you see a bite as it’s falling?
Thanks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm new to crappie fishing this year but I've used a jig under a float a lot. I've caught lots of crappie this way.. especially when using crappie nibbles. They usually pull the cork under for me. I try to use the smallest cork I can to float the bait I'm using.
Forget the float and just cast the jig.
Floats work especially if the jighead is light and the bait's action subtle. I use soft plastics under a float and like to see it dive after two dips.
Answer to your initial question : I do not. And for that matter, I rarely (if ever) use a jig under "any type" of float. Nonetheless, here's my take on the other two questions.
The size of line used and the size of the float used will determine whether or not the tiny jigs will pull the line thru to the stopper. The distance of the cast can also be a factor, since the drag (resistance) of the line thru the water has to be overcome by the weight of the jig. That "can" be overcome by adding a BB size sinker above the jig.
Seeing a bite on a slow falling jig (thru the slipfloat) is possible. It would likely come as a sped up movement of the line thru the slipfloat, or possibly even a stoppage of the line before the stopper reaches the float.
I know many people like a jig under a float. My main issue with it is that you lose the direct connection to the jig. The jig hangs straight down from the float, and the line from rod to float is at an angle to that line. (The farther you cast, the closer that angle gets to 90 degrees). I don't want an angle between me and the fish. It creates slack line and makes hooking more difficult.
I use a slip float a good bit with jigs and for bream. The key to it for me is having the right size float for the weight jig head or split shot. This varies with the depth you fish. Most of my fishing with float is shallow. So my bait is less than 4 foot under the cork, most of the time 18"- 2'. The cork barely floats above the surface when the line is all the way down. If a bite happens before the jig reaches bottom the cork will not stand up(cigar style) or will not be barely above water(floating too high). I dont know the size I use most, but they are small maybe 1.5" long and 1/2" around. Some that I like are the tear drop style, I dont think the fish even feel it when they take it under. If I fish deeper I may not go up in jig size but only add a splitshot 6-10" above it.
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1/32 jighead and plastic tail under a 1.5" float works for me...I use 1/16 also, but the 1/32 sinks a bit slower.....
I use a jig and bobber all the time. It allows you the ability to fish a jig slower. I mostly use this setup during the spring when the crappie are shallow. I like slip corks and use the smallest I can get away with. My favorites are Crappie Magnet brands which are a inch and half long. Fish rip rap with a 2 inch minnow bait under the skip cork is deadly on crappie. I also use those clear casting floats that fill half with water. They add weight and they allow me to cast a 1/64 or 1/32 jig head a long way.
Use a jig and slip float all the time. Especially during the ice out period. A 1/32 or 1/64 jig and maggots catches those supper shy fish right a ice out. I fish strictly from shore early season and fish depths down to 20 feet with this set up. I also use the largest float that I have and substitute the short stem for a long one. I watch the stem for any suttle movement.
Fishing under a float is not as difficult as some make it seem.
First, the floats I use are weighted at the bottom with a lead ring which gives them a neutral buoyancy that allows them to dip from the most subtle strike.
https://i.imgur.com/1wUjnuP.jpg
Even when using a 1/32 jighead, soft plastic lures add weight and go down fast and stay down. Small plastics like the Magnet stay down when the float is pulled a short distance rather than retrieved. Using a leader or line of 6# test allows the least line bow that allows float dip.
All of my jigs are tied such that the knot is at the top of the line tie. This allows the lures a parallel-to-bottom orientation/glide. Maybe it makes no difference especially in a slight chop, but that's my preference.
Another thing that differs from using a float as one would use it with live bait is that my lures are never stationary for any longer than 4 seconds. Sometimes I'll impart action to the suspended lure by twitching the float or pulling the float 4" or less. A moving lure or lure that demonstrates action with the least motion imparted by angler or water ripples, gets the most strikes IMO - one reason hair and feather bodies do well. I prefer thin tail grubs to get a tail ripple/flutter fish find provocative at the slowest retrieve.
Which brings up one more thing - presentation. Float fishing is a presentation that's different than any other (other than drop shot). It is super slow and the lure can be glided at the same depth or the float jerked for an up-&-down action with pause after the lure is down.
I watched a Jerry Mckinnis show years ago whose guest was an angler around 90 yrs old demonstrating float fishing in deep water. The line under the slip float was over 10' long and he was fishing for smallmouth bass using a hair jig. Man did the rig catch fish!
I only use slip floats when fishing deeper than 5ft. A 1.5in float will hold a 1/6oz jig easy. To all the guy that say no need for a float I've seen times where that's the best way to catch them. Plus I love to watch the float fo down or turn up. There's something about it that takes me back to childhood.
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