Skeg clearance when trailering?

I've got a little 1448 Alweld jon with a new Suzuki 30HP 4-stroke, hydraulic tilt. I have 10-1/2" ground clearance with the motor down. I've always used transom-savers in the past for my bigger motors, but I'm thinking of trailering this one in the down position(as recommended in the Suzuki owner's manual)...I'm not looking to start a transom-saver argument.

Anyway, my questions is does 10" ground clearance sound like enough for trailering on decent roads and regular boat launches? Anyone else's rig run about this height and has anyone ever had a problem with clearance at 10"?

Thanks,

Tim

I really don't know but don't forget to figure in tire bounce. On the other hand there's a lot of cars running around here with less clearance.

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Originally Posted by Pithon

I really don't know but don't forget to figure in tire bounce. On the other hand there's a lot of cars running around here with less clearance.

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Yeah, we got them around here, too. And we've got dozens of grooves in the asphalt out in front of the driveways to prove it. :biggrin

railroad crossings, gravel roads and some boat ramps would make me cringe a little .

Typically on the cars all that will scrap is the vinyl bumper surround, with little noticeable damage. Not the case on your nice tiller, one bounce too much or judgement error and it's going to get into your wallet quick. Is larger tires and option to give you more clearance? Good job of posting this question first rather than posting about a costly one later.

I have two jon boats with 9.9's on them ...I quit using transom savers probably ten years ago on them. They both have about 10" clearance . Have hauled them thousands of miles over all kinds of roads. Only thing you have to watch is any condition where the road rises sharply out of a dip where you wheels drop in the dip and the road rises really sharply out of the dip...or dropping off like a curb or something. Other than that no problem. But then that same condition can get some motors on a transom saver depending on the exact setup.

The roads and ramps here in Ms. I would not want my motor only 10" from the ground. I had my 15 on shallow drive and backing down a ramp into the Ms River. The trailer hit a bump and it dropped off tilt and hung and pulled the bolts through the transom. I have had a transom saver ever since.

The reason for using a transom saver is it’s name. Save your transom from the flexing it goes through with motor down or up on the factory tilt bracket. Have someone drive your rig down the road with motor down and follow it. Watch how the transom will flex on bumps.


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Originally Posted by Cray

The reason for using a transom saver is it’s name. Save your transom from the flexing it goes through with motor down or up on the factory tilt bracket. Have someone drive your rig down the road with motor down and follow it. Watch how the transom will flex on bumps.


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I agree with Cray. I see boats on the highways, Interstates, and Parkways with their motors hanging straight down ... and unless they have some form of straps or something holding the motor in place, then it's flopping around side to side or bouncing when the boat goes over a rough patch of road. Boat trailers don't have shock absorbers, just leaf springs, and every little pothole or "bump" in the road is going to transfer that motion energy to the motor and transom if it's not stabilized by something. The best "something" is a transom saver.

I've had 3 boats, with motors from 50hp to 90hp, and on both types of boat trailers (reg height & low profile). I've always had a transom saver on !! It takes less than 30sec's to put it on or take it off, plus it forces me to look at the "plug" to make sure it's in before launching & out before trailering home. Well, that and my retractable transom tie-down straps. :biggrin

10" of ground clearance "may be" enough ... but, the only way you're going to find out that it ISN'T is when the skeg meets the road. :Doh:

....you completely discounted my real world experience of actually having two boats this way and hauling them multiple states and over all types of roads.

There is not enough weight on a 9.9 to worry about especially is if it is hanging straight down.

you're just over thinking this.

I fish 9.9 restricted lakes all the time and many are at the end of pot hole roads...less than half the guys use transom savers anymore.

Different physics than a 300 to 500 lb motor hanging on a tilt putting a twisting action on the transom on every bump

I have a 1977 boat with a 2004 Johnson on it and 1983 boat with a 83 model Tohatsu.

Never damaged a motor or transom or even had to replace a transom yet.

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Originally Posted by doggone

....you completely discounted my real world experience of actually having two boats this way and hauling them multiple states and over all types of roads.

There is not enough weight on a 9.9 to worry about especially is if it is hanging straight down.

you're just over thinking this.

I fish 9.9 restricted lakes all the time and many are at the end of pot hole roads...less than half the guys use transom savers anymore.

Different physics than a 300 to 500 lb motor hanging on a tilt putting a twisting action on the transom on every bump

I have a 1977 boat with a 2004 Johnson on it and 1983 boat with a 83 model Tohatsu.

Never damaged a motor or transom or even had to replace a transom yet.

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My reply wasn't directed to you. It was directed to the original poster who is asking about a small boat with a 30 hp Suzuki on it. Big difference in motor weight between that and your motor.

With our without a transom saver you still need to strap down your motor. Don't think you always need a saver but I do think you always need to strap the motor down.

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Originally Posted by doggone

....you completely discounted my real world experience of actually having two boats this way and hauling them multiple states and over all types of roads.

There is not enough weight on a 9.9 to worry about especially is if it is hanging straight down.

you're just over thinking this.

I fish 9.9 restricted lakes all the time and many are at the end of pot hole roads...less than half the guys use transom savers anymore.

Different physics than a 300 to 500 lb motor hanging on a tilt putting a twisting action on the transom on every bump

I have a 1977 boat with a 2004 Johnson on it and 1983 boat with a 83 model Tohatsu.

Never damaged a motor or transom or even had to replace a transom yet.

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Although that size motor is not likely to weaken the transom to any noticeable point, I've seen countless motors that date back to the 70s and 80s that were trailered that way. The transoms in the boat may not have suffered but the motor mounts on the little motors do. The transom saver locks everything down and protects more than just the transom. But it's ultimatley what the owner is comfortable with. There's a lot of factors at play when trailering a boat down the road.

Thanks for all the input. This outboard has power tilt, so I don't think I would need to strap the motor down...unless you are referring to side to side motion since it's a tiller steer. To take care of that I fully engage the steering tension lever, and that has prevented any side-to-side motion on trips so far. On a very long trip I could use a ratchet strap to prevent the side-to-side motion and relieve the pressure on the tension system I suppose.

As for the ruggedness of the transom on my aluminum boat, this is an Alweld brand boat manufactured in Arkansas. It's a completely welded boat, and the transom is designed and braced for use with a 250lb surface drive if wanted, so I don't think my 160lb will put too much stress on it.

Thanks again.

OK , I will ask the dumb question . What advantage is there to not use a transom saver ?

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Originally Posted by eagle 1

OK , I will ask the dumb question . What advantage is there to not use a transom saver ?

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None that I can think of.

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Originally Posted by eagle 1

OK , I will ask the dumb question . What advantage is there to not use a transom saver ?

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The boat and trailer move in different directions. Your placing stress on the motor lower unit. It wasn't designed for this stress. The transom was designed for streeses placed on it from the motor, even on the highway and back roads to and from the ramp.
As to the original question, 10" is plenty of clearance for the road. It's the steep entrances and exits to businesses you have to be careful about and that depends on the distance from the trailer tires to the skeg.

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I'm going to have to strongly disagree. The boat and trailer should be static and move as one if the boat is properly secured to the trailer. I do see a lot of rigs that aren't properly matched or secured that do flex in ways they shouldn't. But the lower unit is not the part at risk. It is to some degree engineered to withstand impacts with under water objects. Being fitted up to a transom saver is nothing. The stress point at risk is the pivot tube and the motor mounts. Both of which were designed on the drawing table to withstand the stresses of the engine's output. The larger and more powerful engines have stronger motor mounts and transom brackets. Specific to small engines of say 10hp, the motor mounts are wimpy. If the engine is allowed to flop around as it travels down the road, the transom will flex very little if it's not weakened or fatigued by rot or damage. But the motor mounts will continue to flex until their fatigue point is reached. At which time they will give way. If you've ever seen a small outboard that you could flop the powerhead around on without the transom bracket ever moving, you were looking at one with failed motor mounts.
As I stated earlier, ultimately it's the decision of the owner to care for his equipment in the way he/she believes is right. Because they will be the one paying the repair bill or replacing their equipment.

Have to agree with sliderman

How much is it going to cost for a transom saver? Cheap insurance is my comment!

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Originally Posted by Hanr3

The boat and trailer move in different directions. Your placing stress on the motor lower unit. It wasn't designed for this stress. The transom was designed for streeses placed on it from the motor, even on the highway and back roads to and from the ramp.
As to the original question, 10" is plenty of clearance for the road. It's the steep entrances and exits to businesses you have to be careful about and that depends on the distance from the trailer tires to the skeg.

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Back of my boat is rachett strapped to trailer with trailer mounted rachett straps.I would say boat and trailer a move together.When i install transom saver i dont trim it down hard on the transom saver and strap it around the skeg.That way if it has alittle movement or flex the saver has some also.

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Boat manufacturer warranties all welds, including transom (which is built like a tank)...so that stress is not an issue. And I guess the motor manufacturer, Suzuki in this case, who's owner's manual recommends "when trailering keep the motor in the normal operating position unless there is not enough ground clearance"...well, that silly group of engineers that designed this motor probably doesn't know what they are talking about, right?

Anyway, clearance seems fine for me. Thanks for the helpful input.

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Originally Posted by blueball

Back of my boat is rachett strapped to trailer with trailer mounted rachett straps.I would say boat and trailer a move together.When i install transom saver i dont trim it down hard on the transom saver and strap it around the skeg.That way if it has alittle movement or flex the saver has some also.

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That's what I do. And after replacing numerous brackets on my CMC tilt and trim with a 25 4 stroke I have started strapping down my lower unit to the 2 hooks on the back of my transom. Haven't broke a bracket since. Motor flopping around will tear and break aluminum no matter what size.

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Originally Posted by clay slayer

Boat manufacturer warranties all welds, including transom (which is built like a tank)...so that stress is not an issue. And I guess the motor manufacturer, Suzuki in this case, who's owner's manual recommends "when trailering keep the motor in the normal operating position unless there is not enough ground clearance"...well, that silly group of engineers that designed this motor probably doesn't know what they are talking about, right?

Anyway, clearance seems fine for me. Thanks for the helpful input.

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If thats what is says then why ask,that dont make a lick of sense [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

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Originally Posted by blueball

If thats what is says then why ask,that dont make a lick of sense [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

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I was just asking about the amount of clearance, not the motor position in my original post...but the conversation eventually lead down the transom saver path, unfortunately. Oh well. :dono

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Originally Posted by clay slayer

I was just asking about the amount of clearance, not the motor position in my original post...but the conversation eventually lead down the transom saver path, unfortunately. Oh well. :dono

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We meant well, and were just trying to help you avoid a costly problem. And, yes, 10" of clearance on a down motor (with the trailer hitched to your vehicle) should be plenty of distance between the skeg & the road ... if the road is relatively flat. It may only be a problem in cases where you're coming down a steep driveway and then onto a flat roadway (or similar situation at a launch ramp or parking area).

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Originally Posted by CrappiePappy

We meant well, and were just trying to help you avoid a costly problem. And, yes, 10" of clearance on a down motor (with the trailer hitched to your vehicle) should be plenty of distance between the skeg & the road ... if the road is relatively flat. It may only be a problem in cases where you're coming down a steep driveway and then onto a flat roadway (or similar situation at a launch ramp or parking area).

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No problem at all. I just didn't want the thread to turn into an argument...thanks to everyone for the input.:ThumbsUp

Was no argument...people just trying to give you good advice.

Like any discussion....Sometime opinions differ and you just have to make your own judgement.

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Has anyone mentioned a transom saver yet? :dono :Rofl

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Originally Posted by Snubby

Has anyone mentioned a transom saver yet? :dono :Rofl

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You have a pic,what does one look like.Can i get one painted to match my motor.Are they one size fits all or special order[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

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Originally Posted by blueball

You have a pic,what does one look like.Can i get one painted to match my motor.Are they one size fits all or special order[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

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Not sure myself, there is a major marine product manufacturer due to have the prototypes out in 3 to 4 weeks, but could be as many as 38 - 97 weeks, local pickup only rotfl

This thread has run its course and is now closed