It's Almost Time!

For crankin on Twain! Pops installed the rack the other night and is getting the rig prepped for crankin season..........maiden voyage this weekend I believe. Will report back with his findings.

Attachment 305336

Closer shot shows the smaller string of metal for hanging cranks when you switch them out. And yes, those are bells for the rod tips......helpful for getting attention if pulling solo or if one is digging through the cooler for a frosty. Also picked up some of the mini-planers from Offshore and will be giving them a test run soon.

Attachment 305337

Love this time of year. Spawn is over at that means we get our lake back from the weekend warriors.

U

Woo Hoo!!! Go get em boys!!

Good Luck!

thats a great setup! I'm with you cant wait to start pulling

Are the bells some how tied to each rod or do they make noise just thru the vibration down from the rod to the rack?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Missouri Bushwhacker

Are the bells some how tied to each rod or do they make noise just thru the vibration down from the rod to the rack?

---

They are just hanging there for storage so they don't get lost. The bells are clipped to the rod between the last two guides once the rod/crank is set out. I honestly gave my dad a lot of $hit about them until we had them on one evening in low light when we couldn't see the rod or line. They work. Guys like to use them catfishing at night also.

U

I'm especially interested in those mini-planer boards. I've got some of the full sized off-shore w/ tattletale flags for walleye and the flags help out when you got a smaller fish on, but...might be nice to have smaller boards.

Don't know that I'll hook up a whole rack with bells and crank storage, but....looks pretty cool on someone else's boat!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Joedog

I'm especially interested in those mini-planer boards. I've got some of the full sized off-shore w/ tattletale flags for walleye and the flags help out when you got a smaller fish on, but...might be nice to have smaller boards.

Don't know that I'll hook up a whole rack with bells and crank storage, but....looks pretty cool on someone else's boat!

---

Will let you know about the mini planers......not sure if he's putting those to the test this weekend or not. We also run the larger offshore's w/ tattle flags up here for walleye and salmon however, have mixed results on the crappie in MO simply because as you say it's sometimes difficult to determine if you have a fish on or not. The mini planers, if they can handle a larger crank, should fit the bill!

The rack goes on about June 1 and comes off once the water cools off in late September/early October. Pops sat down one night at the cabin and drew that rack up.......took it to a friend of his and it was machined/welded by the following weekend.

Haven't put that rack to the test on the salmon up here just yet........sticking with the rod holders you see in the pic.

U

We have been experimenting with Opti medium planers for a couple of years. They are more sensitive than the bigger Off Shore boards. It's easier to see smaller fish strikes with them. We've had bigger fish have actually pull them under.
https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/opti...ductextensions

Good luck

I was up at MTL Thursday and Friday. Mostly pulled cranks did some tree jigging caught most our fish pulling cranks it was pretty slow we did clean about 40. One nice 12” fish the rest were 9.25” fish. I was surprised how small they were I usually get them in the 10-11 “ range with a few 13s. Still had a great time blue chrome and a darker blue bandit 300 were our best colors. Hope you all get em this weekend. I put on a driftmaster 5100 last week and just loved it. Made trolling a lot easier. My nephew caught his biggest bass on the crank bait. Was pretty cool. Friends in another boat landed a 21” walleye.Attachment 305406Attachment 305407Attachment 305408


Sent from my iPhone using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app

Way to go....good catch

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app

Update: dad and friend were forced off the lake due to this little guy:

Attachment 305446

Had 6 goodins in the box on cranks.

U

need the rain to fill up the lakes don't we? at least I wasn't on them when it hit!

Well, after the storm, Saturday was basically a bust for dad and friend other than he installed his new GPS module in the trolling motor and got a new A/C unit put into the cabin.

Sunday, was a different story. Took Gramps out for his birthday and they had a good time crankin. Caught a good mess of crappie and also soaked into this guy:

Attachment 305656

Better time comin' however, not a bad start to the crankin season.

U

So U, (and Speck) say you're pulling bandit 200's and trying to get, say...9' deep, so you're running 45' back, but then you got a couple you're running on a board, do you let out 45' of line, then your board, then however much line to get it out away from the boat and clear of the other rods?

I typically only run 10 or so feet off the board, but I'm sure I don't have my depth right at that point. Just seems like I'd get into trouble disconnecting the board and then reeling in all that line...like, it would come in and foul the other poles?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Joedog

So U, (and Speck) say you're pulling bandit 200's and trying to get, say...9' deep, so you're running 45' back, but then you got a couple you're running on a board, do you let out 45' of line, then your board, then however much line to get it out away from the boat and clear of the other rods?

I typically only run 10 or so feet off the board, but I'm sure I don't have my depth right at that point. Just seems like I'd get into trouble disconnecting the board and then reeling in all that line...like, it would come in and foul the other poles?

---

JD,

Depending on what part of the water column we are targeting, we'll run 100's, 200's, 300's, flicker 5's and flicker 7's and yes, use your speed + length of line from the board to the crank to determine your depth. In my opinion, it's much more accurate than trying to determine the amount of line out of the water if running them without boards. You can really dial it in this way. As an example, the last trip up here, we quickly figured out that the fish wanted a blue tiger flicker #5, running in 9-10 ft. of water and specifically 65 feet from the crank to the board. That setup outperformed all others 15:1. Also, atleast for us, if we are up on a flat we'll continue our targeted speed and try to dig the deeper running cranks into the gravel (you'll see your rods bounce) as that oftentimes entices a bite.

If you're running a 200 only 10 feet behind the board, depending on your speed, I bet your only running 3-4 feet deep, max. Not where you want to be if you are targeting summertime crappie. This is also where line counter reels play an enormous factor. We use line counters EXCLUSIVELY when cranking......I'm anal-retentive and absolutely MUST know where my baits are running at all time.

As for the planers, you'll get into a rhythm and learn what works best for you. I find that when boarding for crappie, we are best suited to run two boards off each side and then 4 - 6 rods straight off the back (you can get away with this in the murkier lakes) and if you pick a fish up, just rotate the position and length of line on the board that remains. Also, when you hook a fish, they will generally elevate and that means you can bring the board in, unclip, and then "ski" the fish across your other lines. This does NOT happen when you smack a catfish or walleye........they are basically in the water to create a mess. Speaking of fish "elevating", always check the angle of your line. If it's super flat, you're likely dragging one.

I'm sure Speck can offer much more insight on the tactic but, once you figure it out, you're addicted. So much more water coverage.

U

I figured as much with the boards...that I was running shallower. I get a lot fewer hookups on those rods, but they're also the ones to cause the most problems with snags or fouled baits or whatever....and it just takes SO much more work to get those straightened out that I've more or less given up on using them except up north, instead just running four out the back. Cover less water, but....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Route U

JD,

Depending on what part of the water column we are targeting, we'll run 100's, 200's, 300's, flicker 5's and flicker 7's and yes, use your speed + length of line from the board to the crank to determine your depth. In my opinion, it's much more accurate than trying to determine the amount of line out of the water if running them without boards. You can really dial it in this way. As an example, the last trip up here, we quickly figured out that the fish wanted a blue tiger flicker #5, running in 9-10 ft. of water and specifically 65 feet from the crank to the board. That setup outperformed all others 15:1. Also, atleast for us, if we are up on a flat we'll continue our targeted speed and try to dig the deeper running cranks into the gravel (you'll see your rods bounce) as that oftentimes entices a bite.

If you're running a 200 only 10 feet behind the board, depending on your speed, I bet your only running 3-4 feet deep, max. Not where you want to be if you are targeting summertime crappie. This is also where line counter reels play an enormous factor. We use line counters EXCLUSIVELY when cranking......I'm anal-retentive and absolutely MUST know where my baits are running at all time.

As for the planers, you'll get into a rhythm and learn what works best for you. I find that when boarding for crappie, we are best suited to run two boards off each side and then 4 - 6 rods straight off the back (you can get away with this in the murkier lakes) and if you pick a fish up, just rotate the position and length of line on the board that remains. Also, when you hook a fish, they will generally elevate and that means you can bring the board in, unclip, and then "ski" the fish across your other lines. This does NOT happen when you smack a catfish or walleye........they are basically in the water to create a mess. Speaking of fish "elevating", always check the angle of your line. If it's super flat, you're likely dragging one.

I'm sure Speck can offer much more insight on the tactic but, once you figure it out, you're addicted. So much more water coverage.

U

---

Great info Route U thanks for all the details. I'm pretty new to cranking and now that I have a rack to hold my rods I will certainly do it more. So much easier with proper rod holders.

I downloaded the PTD (Precision Trolling Data) app on my Iphone. You have to purchase each type of lure chart separately. Usually $1.99 or so for each lure.
Then I can dial in the type of crank and the depth I want it to run. The app will tell you how much line to have out. For instance, if I have Bandit 300's on some rods and want them to run 10 feet deep, the app shows I need 38 feet of line out running 10# mono. There is a different chart for braid. If I have Flicker Shad 7's on different rods, I'd need 61 feet of line out to get 10 feet down. On my boards, If running two out each side, I'll stagger them 20 feet apart (ie. 4o feet and 20 feet.) If running three boards on each side, I'll put them at 60, 40 and 20. That gives me 128 feet of coverage including the boat. Like RouteU said, when you catch a fish on an outside board, rotated the other inside board to the outside and so on. I also run long lines out the back on different rods.Attachment 305790Attachment 305791

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Speck

I downloaded the PTD (Precision Trolling Data) app on my Iphone. You have to purchase each type of lure chart separately. Usually $1.99 or so for each lure.
Then I can dial in the type of crank and the depth I want it to run. The app will tell you how much line to have out. For instance, if I have Bandit 300's on some rods and want them to run 10 feet deep, the app shows I need 38 feet of line out running 10# mono. There is a different chart for braid. If I have Flicker Shad 7's on different rods, I'd need 61 feet of line out to get 10 feet down. On my boards, If running two out each side, I'll stagger them 20 feet apart (ie. 4o feet and 20 feet.) If running three boards on each side, I'll put them at 60, 40 and 20. That gives me 128 feet of coverage including the boat. Like RouteU said, when you catch a fish on an outside board, rotated the other inside board to the outside and so on. I also run long lines out the back on different rods.Attachment 305790Attachment 305791

---

That $1.99 app was the cheapest thing that came from us fishing together............

U

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Route U

That $1.99 app was the cheapest thing that came from us fishing together............

U

---

Man. ya gotta spend a lot of money to catch crappie.:biggrin

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Speck

Man. ya gotta spend a lot of money to catch crappie.:biggrin

---

Hope to see ya at Twain in August. I'll let you buy me a beer...........then we can head down to Toledo Bend.

U

looks good
'

Or you could use Paul and my method. How far back were you Paul a good cast plus a little. How far back was that one Richard way out there. And it did not cost us 1.99.:cheers2 Oh and once again I was very glad to have a set of sidecutters on the boat them there crankbait hooks are sharp. And a pair of needlenose with sidecutters is not nearly as good.:twocents

Thanks for the report from Twain!