Has anybody tried hand dipping already made bait to form an outer core colors? What was your result? Like black bait, dipped in light clear chartreuse. Thanks for your knowledge and expertise
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Has anybody tried hand dipping already made bait to form an outer core colors? What was your result? Like black bait, dipped in light clear chartreuse. Thanks for your knowledge and expertise
yes we do this all the time on our plastics we do use several different methods I use a small syringe in shoot a color into have been sometimes we over coat with a second color but there are many different ways that you can go about it enclosed a picture for you to look at.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradygarrett
Attachment 297735
I tried hand pouring first color, then shooting second color, only one or 2 out of the 12 turned out ok. When I hand dipped it, just got more bulky, quick dip wasn't as bad, but looked liked it could peel off. I sure need some ideas. Snake, when you use a small injector, what kind of injector? Do you inject right after your main pour? How do you overcoat?
You can take a little syringe Open up your mold first cavities and shoot one color then put a little bit of another color on top put The. Mold back to gather and shoot Here’s or mold take your plastic bait and dip it in clear plastic .Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradygarrett
I dip my plastics baits all the time after I make them or when I by baits that I want to change the color or make more bulky. I mainly use big bulky baits and you cant find them factory made so I double dip them to make the bodies bigger. I bought a bunch of Arkies 2 1/2 XL pro series tube baits on a clearance rack and double dipper them to make the bodies bigger and change the color to what I wanted. Caught a lot of big slabs off of them this winter. I also hand pour the bottom and top mold different colors and them shoot the center a third color to make a tricolor bait. There is no end to what you can do if your not afraid to try something totally different than just what you see on the self. that the fun of making your own baits. I have a box marked UGLY BAITS and they are just that but you would be surprised what you can catch on what most would call mistakes:) Most marketing is to catch people not fish.
As long as the outer layer is clear to semi-clear and the plastic hot enough, the central color will come through and also magnify (like in Snake's photo) any glitter. Most important is to keep the tail out of the heated plastic (at least 280 degrees) so the action isn't affected.
I like the idea of pouring a layer of plastic and then either pouring the next layer or injecting it depending on the mold.
Attachment 297812 Not sure how the pics will turn out but here is a few hand poured and then injected
Your a wealth of knowledge Snake, the only reason I decided to make my own is because this one tube jig I can't find anymore, but haven't bought any tube supplies yet, but bought the mo magic and crappie carrot, a 3 inch jerk bait, and a double 2 inch tail bait. The tube was a core tube, trying to figure out best way to make it look like a core. I love playing with colors. Learned a few things, yes, can't dip tails will curl up. Glitter does kinda change the gloss of the bright colors. Hard to hand pour then inject small baits to get core. Still learning things. At times, moving from mold to fill up again, it gets clogged. When you dip your bait, what temp do you have bait, and liquid plastic? Exactly how do you use small injector? What kind of injector?
That is so cool, wow
So on this, you opened the mold and hand poured the bottom, then injected the top, then hand injected the pink while it was still hot? What happens to the plastic when you inject the pink?
Spoonminnow, yes I learned that, can't dip the tails in hot plastic, the tail curls up, when you hand dip, do you drop it in fast and out, or do you leave it for a second? Did you warmup the bait first? Or dip it cooled? Thanks for the response, I appreciate all the advise, thanks spoonminnow
This would be hard to do with my molds, but how do you do the top without it falling out when you put the mold together to shoot the middle
You guys doing core shots are used to use a laminate plate and leave With the bodies and Mold and then take a little bit of coloring and put it at the head in put sure mold back to gather in shoot it both sides will be clear this is what you called a core shot. when I'm doing, like a core shot but with two different colors on one cavity overlay and then I shoot clear and then I dip it in clear to lock everything in including the eyeballs I've enclosed a picture of the little syringe I use to do my fancy work it is plastic it's been holding up really well and you can buy it on eBay I know some you guys would be a little bit worried about use made of plastic with hot plastic inside so you have to be a little cautious but it will not explode on you I didn't like the metal syringes I've have one in mice to it in the garbage or I should say it's hanging in my shop but anyway here's a picture of the little syringe that I use. the mold in the picture is one of the very first ones that I bought about 14 years ago.I also added a picture of a core shot holding it in my fingers the bait in the method in the above that I told you how to do it. in the core shot picture I use that little syringe input through plastic in the belly side of the mold be real cautious on the following use a small toothpick intake coloring inputted by the intake of a little bit put the mold back to gather and shoot your clerk: to make a core shot it will take some practice to get onto this. don't know if you guys remember but I taught quite a few guys this method some of them are using this method to sell their plastics see
CTOM use this method for quite some time I was the very first to come up with this method course it might've been done this way many years ago but I had nobody to teach me most of my stuff is my trial and error over 15 years that I've been messing with the plastics so I'm passing on knowledge that it took me a long time to learning.
Attachment 297836
core shot picture.
Attachment 297831Attachment 297832
can't dip the tails in hot plastic, the tail curls upQuote:
Originally Posted by Gradygarrett
I've never had that happen when I've used a pin or thin wire shoved into the front of the lure, dipped the lure tail first and then pulled pulled out fast, blowing to cool it down fast.
If the plastic is much more than 280 degrees (candy thermometer) and the lure left in a split second too long, the tail melts away; if pulled out at the right moment, the tail gets thinner and longer as long as the plastic is hot; thicker if the plastic is too cool with a tiny bubble at the tip.
dip it cooled (hot plastic melts the outer surface as it's dipped and both layers merge immediately.)
Practice makes perfect after just a few tries.
I did the needle-dip method to thicken this small stick and now it has the exact action of a Senko on the drop when used with a 1/32 oz jig:
https://i.imgur.com/GUnA6v0.jpg
I'm hoping crappie like 2" stick lures when I try them soon. (note: for the above example, the plastic dipped into was of the same softness as the original or the tip quiver won't happen. Both were soft plastic. For other lures, medium or soft plastic dips are fine.
This is what happens when the plastic being dipped into is too cool and of a medium soft grade:
Attachment 297838
These blobs didn't have much action and were melted down.
I would say use a harbor plastic or get a hardener to go into your plastic I usually don't have that problem dipping my plastic baits into a clear coat I have never had that happen. in most of time that we are using the medium plastic.
I have a question for you and I wish you would send me a PM on your reply which plastic are you using.
How do you send pm on here snake?
Go up to my aviator and click on my name snake River.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradygarrett
I like that, hand poured bottom, then injected