Favorite rod repair - method

I wish I knew back then what I know works now to repair a rod without sacrificing action or length. I've posted this before, but few were interested. In any case here is the method.

Materials needed:

plastic wire zip ties

wire cutters (to snip of the ties)

thin diameter braid (line) of 15# test or less

super glue

scissors

Note: Works best when the break is anywhere 1/3 of the length toward the tip. It will work with the break half way down but the action is changed a bit.

Method:
1. Put some superglue on one rod blank end - 1" is enough - where the ends ride on tip of one another.
2. Align the broken ends shotgun style with the end blank on top of the blank that connects to the handle and tighten them together using two zip ties, making sure the guides are aligned. Let dry.
3. Super glue the top and bottom of the two blanks.
4. Wrap the blanks between the zip ties with braided line, making the turns close to one another the same way you do when attaching a new line guide.
5. Take the wire cutters and snip off the zip ties.
6. After super gluing the blank tips where the two zip ties were, wind braided line around the blank ends to prevent blank separation when fighting a fish.

Braid holds the overlapping ends in line and the renewed rod is as good as new. I found both parts of a $100 Pleuger rod in a garbage can at a launch site. After 2 years, it still catches fish - some over 4lbs.

http://i.imgur.com/IRaIp7N.jpg?1

:cheers2 No offense but as a rod builder, that makes me ill. If it pleases you, all is good.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by imajigger2

:cheers2 No offense but as a rod builder, that makes me ill. If it pleases you, all is good.

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What's your repair technique?

Ive used proper diameter pcs of 4 to 6 inches long cut from an old rod, and epoxied inside where the break is.
About half the length in each of the pcs. and depending on where the break is it dosent affect the action.
Best to trim the broken ends slightly with a Dremel tool to eliminate any ragged ends.
Break location might make it a wasted effort.

I would use the proper size piece of fiberglass rod blank that fits 2 inches either side of the break. Unless the break was badly shattered i would not trim it down. Using epoxy paste glue, i would glue the pieces up and let dry overnite. I would then overwrap the area with size A thread and apply finish. I have done many like this for people. My own rods break and they go to scrap, it is just personal preference for me. I think i've only broken 2 of my own rods in the last 30 years. I have been blessed with the skill to craft rods so i take a lot of pride in my rods not only for function but looks also. Nothing wrong if his method works for him, just not for me. Lots of people take pride in coming up with solutions as this gentlemen did, so kudo's to him.

I have broken 3 of my JDM rods.......I just ordered the top section and they are back in service. One can do the same with some USA companies......I replaced top section on a Phenix Elixir rod and gave it to my son. I’m with imajigger......if it works and folks are happy with that repair that is fine. If one of mine breaks and I can’t replace the top section....if that is what broke......then in the garbage it goes and I purchase another one just like it if I liked it that much. I have never broken a rod on a fish...not saying someone hasn’t.....but that is rare to happen.

Regards


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I have broke em on the water and cut rod back to next guide to finish day if still serviceable. Back at ramp pull reel off and pitch rod in dumpster. Rarely ever get stuck needing to do that as I generally have several rods along on each trip.

The overwrapping would be a good idea, and no doubt would add strength to the hollow ends at the break.

In my case there are so many rods in the garage that if it happens and to be sure it has ...the broke part and good part are laying around . Then as it happens when I break the next one I play around with the broke parts till I find one that marries the other ....:Rofl
Sometimes the new hybrid rods are pretty good and to be sure I give them abuse I wouldn’t to my better stuff . As far as Putting a snapped rod back together at the break point , I got way more things to do than try to make that work for me
But as always to each his own and I seen a many a fish whacked in numbers on broken bad rods .

I have been blessed with adequate funds to seemingly buy most anything I want and, occasionally, several. My normal complement of rods per outing stands at four as that is how many will fit in perfect rod holders. My brother also has four on each trip we take. I broke a few and was able to send them back to the manufacturer and they were replaced at no cost to me. Others required me to purchase a new rod tip. Never thought to try to fix them myself when we have resources that will professionally do so at a minimum cost. We are just blessed to be in an era that makes this possible. I do envy the person who can do his own repairs, though. Good post and great comments!


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As a rod builder, I only fix rods that are "meaningful" to the owner. If it is just another rod, I wouldn't think twice about it. I can fix them but they will "never" be like they first were. To anyone that says it does not effect the action, then they truely don't know what action is. So, allow me to explain.

Slow: The rod will bend from the tip to almost the handle. It will wiggle like a wet noodle
Moderate slow: will be slightly stiffer and usually not flex to the handle
Moderate: Stiffer yet, less wiggle, bends or flexes to about 1 foot from the handle
Mod Fast: Will flex to about the middle of the rod blank
Fast: Fill flex about 1/3 of the way from the top
X-fast: might flext 8 to 10 inches

That said, if you use the above mentioned technique, try and bend or flex the tip of the rod. You will have a bind and resistance where the union is located. It will not flex like its original action. Even when you slice in an older blank piece inside of the rod, it will not flex like intended.

Lets say a normal Mod fast rod gets 1 inch of flex for every inch of length. You put a "cripple" on it and that 1 inch of flex will be extended over the entire lenght of the cripple and not the 1 inch spine of the blank.

This is by no means meant to put down the creator. This is a decent way to get you back in the fight and I would consider doing this in a pinch if I was on a float trip someplace. I had a friend break a rod on a trip in the Candian interior. We cut it back to the next eye. It wasn't great but better than the ulternative (not fishing).

I have said it before: The majority of rod manufacturers in fact have a warranty. If it is their fault, they usually ship you a new one. If it is your fault, be honest. More times than not, they work with you because... It was your favoritie rod, you obviously want it fixed for a reason, which means you like their company. Lower priced rods actually have a better warrenty then their high dollar friends and are much more user friendly.

To each his own. My method allows for a broken rod to be reused without any loss of action and little loss in length. If a broken rod is not considered worth saving, by all means dispose of it. But for all others that have a good fish catch history, transmit subtle strikes and take the shocks of big fish, you might consider the method I proposed. IT WORKS!

Spoonminnow - thank you!

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I can say this,the rod repair I just did a day or so ago,has indeed changed the action of the rod.Having an identical rod that is not broken,the six inches I lost can certainly be felt in comparison,That said,the average eye would indeed have some difficulty knowing my rod was repaired.
While my OCD would prevent me from doing a repair like spoon minnow's,I wouldn't hesitate if it kept me on the water.i was lucky the break was just upstream of an eyelet,by trimming and inserting the 6" of tip end into the lower rod section,I feel very comfortable the strength of the rod due to the extra wrap and coating at the eyelet.

The loss of six inches will certainly affect rod action! What I'm talking about is a loss in length of only 3/4" - 1 1/4" depending on the distance from the last guide the overlap is performed.

As far as repairing a rod from half the length down towards the handle, forget using this method or any method except that which requires inserts. If the blank is shattered or splintered, there's still a change of a solid overlap as long as the overlap is mostly solid fiberglass or whatever the rod is made of. More than half the fish I caught last year - many of which I posted pictures of - where caught with repaired light action rods - even a 3.5 lb catfish!

Broken rods are my middle name and I break at least three a year - even the ones I repaired - but in most cases repaired to be broken another day. :banghead

Wow,three a year! I'm 55, and this is the second rod I've broken,the first was a 20" cherry wood ice rod,I snapped it between my legs while I was walking.I repaired it with epoxy and rod wrap,it's been nearly 10 years ago,and it's still catching fish.

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Originally Posted by Yaker

Wow,three a year! I'm 55, and this is the second rod I've broken,the first was a 20" cherry wood ice rod,I snapped it between my legs while I was walking.I repaired it with epoxy and rod wrap,it's been nearly 10 years ago,and it's still catching fish.

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I'm a lot older than you. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.:fish

Not to jinx myself, however I don't break rods. Maybe I'm lucky, or just to careful. IF or when that day comes, I'll replace it.

The ones that I have broke can usually be traced back to the likely source. Me!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by imajigger2

:cheers2 No offense but as a rod builder, that makes me ill. If it pleases you, all is good.

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Im not a rod builder, just a retired engineer. Not ill, just would hurt me to look down the rod, and use! I have yet to break one, just lost 2 now in the lake. Did recover 1, 2 years later. Reel was trash, rod just fine.