Using a lighter jig may make all the differnce

My usual jig head weight is 1/16 oz for most soft plastic lures, but once the water temperature went down into the mid 50's, presentation speed had to change. The lures I usually cast are less than 3" long and slim in profile. Rarely do I use curl tail grubs preferring straight tails in different shapes : thin flat tail, cone shaped, thin double tail, craw antenna, etc. They all benefit from a very slow retrieve that provoke mostly inactive fish to strike which I assume is the case when no surface activity is present. I also started using Gary Y. 4" Kut Tail worms rigged on a light jig and had great success catching 4-5 species every time I fish. Here are two examples from yesterday:
https://i.imgur.com/Q2vHa9w.jpg?1https://i.imgur.com/4pZoqSV.jpg?2

What makes using light jigs essential in the above case is the type of plastic used to make the lure: sinking plastisol (plastic) and salt. The whole point of the design is letting it show off when darted near surface letting the body and tail wiggle and dart back and forth on the slowest retrieve. Fish that couldn't get the lure in their mouths, hit again and again on repeated casts to the same spot.

When it comes to odd shaped lures with short bodies, the same requirement is necessary to allow the lure's action to build provocation in a fish not feeding.
https://i.imgur.com/yv9fMGV.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/AkrUwyl.jpg

If I find I can get away going back to 1/16oz, I will especially when fish are deeper (7' or greater). But in mid to late fall, lighter seems to be better as the water changes in color and temperature, causing fish to move from one area to the next on consecutive days and away from shoreline cover.

Jig size doesn't matter as much with shad tail and curl tail grubs since the retrieve is usually steady to get the tail to move. But for straight tails, usually lighter is better IMO.

Yes sir ree. I was fishing the other day. Swapped from 1/16 to 1/32. And they started hitting on the drop. The heavier jig was getting through the strike zone to fast

Couldn't have said it better! The strike zone is more important than many realize once fish are found and indicates not only depth the fish are holding,
but also means the time necessary for fish to react to an annoying lure passing through it.

I find myself using 1/24th and 1/32th jig heads more and more. I still use #4 size sickle hooks even with the smaller jig heads. I want to slow down the fall rate of my jig but still hook up with the fish.

The lightest jig you can get away with works best.

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Originally Posted by Pantastic

The lightest jig you can get away with works best.

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Agree, but the hook size can be crucial which is why I do a search on EBay for a particular weight jig and at least 3 different hook sizes. Nice to have found 1/32 oz with a #2 hook.

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Originally Posted by Spoonminnow

Agree, but the hook size can be crucial which is why I do a search on EBay for a particular weight jig and at least 3 different hook sizes. Nice to have found 1/32 oz with a #2 hook.

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I have Grousefly custom make 1/16oz & 1/32oz weedless jigheads with a #2 hook & #4 hook (on both sizes) ... mainly because of the different sizes/shapes of the plastics I use, so that there's a decent gap between the hook point and top of the plastic bait being used. I choose the weight of the jighead and hook size accordingly. (rate of fall wanted + size of plastics used)

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so that there's a decent gap between the hook point and top of the plastic bait being used. I choose the weight of the jighead and hook size accordingly. (rate of fall wanted + size of plastics used)

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Couldn't agree more! I've even started getting away from using bulkier bodies so the gap isn't a problem and especially since the point the hook comes out is less than half the length of the lure. The action part of a lure should ideally include body and tail for maximal effect. The Kut Tail Worm shown is one example. Who knew crappie and fish in general would jump all over it. (..and no, I'm not a sponsor and hope to find a mold.)

I could go on about what I have found that supports what you say. I will cut it short to say I agree with the weight and slower fall it have to say that a large hook isn't needed. I landed many on a 1/64 on a #8 sickle and lost very few in an open water situation. My point is to keep trying what you know to. E right tip you find your answer. Ask Slab, he saw this first hand.

Sometimes big minners work and sometimes little minners work. Sometimes I get lucky sometimes I don't. Over 70 years experience at trying though. It is hard to catch anything sitting in front of the TV and not trying your luck out.

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Originally Posted by Cane Pole

Sometimes big minners work and sometimes little minners work. Sometimes I get lucky sometimes I don't. Over 70 years experience at trying though. It is hard to catch anything sitting in front of the TV and not trying your luck out.

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You should revive 'ol Clyde and set him out there running around on the water, aggravating those Asian Carp :Rofl ... maybe if they jump often enough they'll wear themselves out or starve to death or decide they don't want to be in that area anymore !! :ThumbsUp

It would be entertaining, all the same ... probably more than what's on TV, anyway. :dono

I’ve been using a 1/64 ounce head for years with a #8 hook with the tiny Trout Magnet and have lost very few crappie.


Regards


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