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It says right on the PICO package to tie directly to the split ring and not to use a snap swivel. Arkie and Bandit packaging are silent on the matter. Some of my fellow fishermen use snap swivels, some say never. I've been tying direct with an improved clinch Knot, I'm using braid. I'm catching fish, BUT, it sucks when I need to change colors.:hatchet:
I'm a noobie to crankin' What do you long time crankers say?:dono
Snap swivel.
:hesaid
Use a snap swivel and connect to the split ring
Just snap. No swivel needed.
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you get no line twist using just a snap? :scratchhead
No snap-swivel...just a snap..use a Duo-loc as small as your fingers will allow
Black or red snap swivel
I use a snap on one end of a 2-4 foot fluorocarbon leader and tie a swivel to the other end of the leader, which gets tied to braid. Palomar knots all the way around. The snap definitely helps to be able to remove the crankbait fast when tangles happen or you need to change colors.
Jim
No- line twist isn't an issue pulling cranks. The swivel is just additional hardware that isn't needed. If you run a leader off your main line it isn't a bad idea to put a swivel at that connection because it'll be stronger than a knot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosquitopat
VMC just came out with a new snap that is just for trolling cranks. It is wider than a normal snap and gives the lure more to "work".
Attachment 277738
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Line twist isn't an issue pulling cranks? I wish that were true on KY and Barkley where we deal with multitudes of yellow bass, catfish, and other assorted things that make line twist a huge issue and the main reason I run a snap swivel.
Snap swivel for me, never had and problems.
95% tie direct. But the few times when fishing buddies who are slow at tying knots, I'll use Norman Speed Clips: http://assets.academy.com/mgen/01/10102701.jpg
If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it....
My snap swivels make life easier, no line twist issues and the feeshes could care less.
Life is good...
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But, isn't that snap swivel on the opposite end of the leader, than where the crank is ?? Not much you can do about the fish "spinning" and twisting line ... but, an out of alignment crank or one that picks up some debris will turn over in a wide circle, not just spin around and around (like a blade on an inline spinner) ... and I haven't found even the ball bearing high dollar swivels to do much about line twist, in any scenario. They might relieve a little of the twist, but they haven't shown me anything. I tried using them on inline spinners, like Rooster Tails or Shysters (both the cheap gold ones and the ball bearing Sampo's) and they did little to nothing about line twist. The only thing that stopped line twist for me (when using those spinners) was when Rooster Tail started making their line eye in an offset oval shape, instead of the O shaped eye of their original spinners.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdux
I use snaps, similar to the two pictured in this post.
snap is used to connect to the crankbait, i have a leader above it, with a ball bearing swivel at other end.
my question, which I can't find a definitive answer, do I use the split ring, or remove?
i am very new to pulling crankbaits for crappie!
If the crank has a split ring on it, new in the package, I'd leave it on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lane47
Leave the split ring on the crank and attach the business end of the snap swivel to the split ring. I used only a duolock snap for years until a fellow CDC’r proved to me that the snap swivel does not change the catch rate whatsoever and nearly completely eliminates line twist when catfish or foul hooked yellow bass take down a lure in your spread. I use #7 eagle claw black barrel swivels with interlock snaps that have a more rounded swivel end to allow free motion of the lure.
Another vote here for just a snap and not a snap-swivel. No need for the swivel part. I've been tossing cranks for many decades with never an issue going this route. From an engineering viewpoint, the extra hardware only dampens the bait's action. This may be more of an issue with bass instead of crappie, but I'm use to it. I like that VMC snap too. Going to have to see about getting some.
Kentucky Lake snap swivel.
Don
No just a barrel swivel with bout 2' leader. Works fine for me
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I used to use a snap swivel on every crankbait. I replaced the snap swivel with a loop knot tied to the split ring and noticed a BIG difference in the action of wide wobble cranks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crestliner08
I use a snap for one reason only. To remove the cranks when transporting the rods. Put 6 or 8 rods with cranks together and see the mess.
Very interesting. I'll have to try these out . Thanks for the info milliman :ThumbsUp
Very interesting, I'll have to try them outQuote:
Originally Posted by milliman3216
Have you tried it using just a light wire snap like the Duo-Locks? The reason I'm asking is that I would think the rapid action of a crank's eye might abrade the line of a loop knot. I could be wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by silverside
It might if the loop knot was tied to the crankbait's eye ring, but probably not if tied to the split ring ... since the split ring would be receiving all the abrasion of the crank's side to side motion.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crestliner08
Have not tried those. I have used the loop knot ( I use the Kreh loop knot) for many years. I can not recall ever getting abrasion to the line from the crank. Rocks are a different story though :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Crestliner08
I have always used a snap swivel but those that just use a snap obviously it works for them but definitely use one or the other because changing baits when trolling is critical to having success. I troll for Walleye, Salmon, and Crappie and could not imagine having to cut and retie baits all day.
Always used a snap no swivel
What about the split ring?
i see no purpose for a split ring, especially if I use a snap.
For me, it just makes connecting the snap more difficult.
my experiments do not show that it effects how the crankbait runs.
but, I'm new to this, may be overlooking something?
Lane47... I tend to look at things like this: If automotive engineers spend the money to add brakes, there must be a reason. If lure engineers spend the money to add split rings, there's a reason.
I can tell you this. A fishing buddy really hated split rings and thought they were useless so he removed them all. I ALWAYS caught more fish out of the same boat, same water. He added them again and his catch rate improved right away. Coincedence? Maybe,maybe not. :dono
Split rings are on cranks for the purpose of tying your line directly to the ring, and not the eye loop ... to allow free movement of the crank. A loop knot or snap or snap swivel "can" be used to take the place of a split ring ... but isn't necessary. IMHOQuote:
Originally Posted by Lane47
(I just don't remove the split ring, myself, and just open the snap wide enough to easily slip it on ... closing the snap is just as cumbersome to me whether there's a split ring on the bait or not)
I should have explained better.
i fully understand the need for split rings when one ties the line directly to the lure. Without the split ring, a lure will not run right.
A snap and split ring together doesn't seem necessary.
i use a style of snap that is held closed by tension, not a bail, it is very difficult to attach it to the split ring ( ring has 2 diameters of wire, plus it isn't rigid)
This is not slowing me down, learing to read and use the Lowrance, that is a challenge!
thanks for the replies,
I remove the split ring and use the snap directly to the line tie....but what do I know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lane47
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Gomer,
the two of us are doing it the same way!
Thats not an indicator of being correct, just the same!