In the heat of summer, they're still proving that some lure designs are better

Been a strange year with all the rain we've had in the northeast as compared to the severe drought of the last three years. Algae blooms are the norm but don't usually affect the bite even in water 77-85 degrees surface temp. The high water has relocated fish schools to other areas than before and they have been harder to locate in some waters that have depths of 45' or more. The shallow lakes still have fish biting shallow and no deeper than 5'. Seeing as how the water is closer to shoreline overhanging limbs, casting way under those branches finds aggressive bites from most species.



Most days I log over 40 fish and a few weeks ago over 85. The minority are small, but the large fish of each species is noted along with the lure used and location caught. When I find schools near mid lake humps, I mark them with home made buoy markers made from those tubes kids thrash around in the water:

http://i.imgur.com/yqqvXBo.jpg



When I find lures that work really well, such as the ones below, I don't stick with them after a dozen fish are caught, but try others to see how they compare. These cut from the tails of plastic worms, always catch fish.

http://i.imgur.com/o8Emdjw.jpg



I even dug out some Bass Assassin prong tail grubs and caught fish:

http://i.imgur.com/ABIwwSS.jpg http://i.imgur.com/4Rc5ICG.jpg

For the first time this year, I tried a Crappie Magnate grub by Leland and because of the numbers of fish it caught, ordered it in a dozen colors from the web site. This is a perfect example of the importance of lure design, especially when the slightest design detail makes all the difference!



http://i.imgur.com/gMmKj3C.jpg



I also discovered that if I reduced a 4" Charlie Brewer Slider worm to 2.5", I caught fish after fish.

http://i.imgur.com/UHQJmss.jpg



Each successful design had one or more unique characteristics such as profile, action and maybe color in combination that worked great with certain retrieves. Modifying lures such as the small Slugo cut lengthwise, added that something fish jumped all over.

http://i.imgur.com/SRO7FVe.jpg



If you ever want a child to take an interest in fishing beyond using live bait, use any of the above or many others and show him or her the importance of the retrieve and casting to as many areas as possible. Success will in all likelihood be instant and hook that child far faster than watching a float sit there without a twitch.

Good post. Thanks for the good ideas about tinkering with lures. I also got some panfish magnates recently and really liked the results I had with them.

later...etex

Thank you for posting, this is great info!

As always great info ! thanks for sharing!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by etexbasser

Good post. Thanks for the good ideas about tinkering with lures. I also got some panfish magnates* recently and really liked the results I had with them.

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Try cutting off the front end by one segment and re-rigging on a light jighead with a small hook. Amazing the change in the number of strikes and strike intensity. Never knew such a blah looking lure could do so well ! Many other plastics can be improved by slimming and shortening when the bite is tough; no need when fish are apt to chase and strike lures at longer distances and more tolerant of larger, slightly faster moving targets.



*BTW (Excellent price on their web site.)

Examples of change that made all the difference that day:

http://i.imgur.com/XIqGp78.jpg
Note jig and hook size -1/16 to 1/32; #6 hook to #8 (smaller); Magnet size reduced by one segment.

http://i.imgur.com/rcnPdB3.jpg

The prong tail needed no forward speed of retrieve to quiver slightly - something fish are very sensitive to.

When it comes to pan fish and trout possessing small mouths, I always thought a larger hook would be more effective. A #8 hook is really small and reduces the gap between the lure's surface and hook point. But fish after fish proved that when they bite down, that gap is not an issue. (Of course that hook better be ultra sharp so fish pretty much hook themselves in a panic once they sense danger.)

Great points and illustrations.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

great post

Are you casting out and reeling in slow or just dropping down to a depth

Are you casting out and reeling in slow or just dropping down to a depth

Once I find fish, I swim the lure mid depth and may jig the lure off bottom for fish that are very riled and have hit a few times. The slow presentation with rod tip twitches and reel handle stop and go, get most fish in the neighborhood to strike.

Today, 106 fish were caught (4 species) and the pattern from last Thurs. repeated itself: anchor in 5' and fan cast the shallows​. Fish were never seen deep on the sonar and because of the 2" of rain yesterday afternoon, fish were closer to shorelines and on top of humps and points that were only 4' deep. The only time fish were in open water were in areas near the drops off flats.

Thanks, I fished yesterday ran up and down lake trying to find fish. only caught one little one on a slip bobber that I was pulling behind me. Lake was super green with no wind. I think I am going to pick up some of the jigs you mentioned also.

These are the lure designs rigged on a 1/32 oz ballhead jig that caught the most fish of the 106:
http://i.imgur.com/cjpNgOx.jpg

As you can see, most of what you already own that are similar in shape and action worked even in pea soup colored water can make all the difference.
Sonar is so very important finding drop offs off flats, points, humps, old rock walls, hard and soft bottoms, etc. where fish congregate and to tell you about any fish in the area.