I have heard a few guys mention using chains to slow thier drift.
Can you elaborate on length and weight of the chains that you use?
Are you dragging the bottom with the chains? Or just pulling them behind the boat?
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I have heard a few guys mention using chains to slow thier drift.
Can you elaborate on length and weight of the chains that you use?
Are you dragging the bottom with the chains? Or just pulling them behind the boat?
Check out the post that CEB did, I think its on page two he has a picture of his chains and how he uses them. Here is the link to the thread.
http://www.crappie.com/gr8vb3/showthread.php?t=35387
thanks for the link. that was pretty recent. I need to look harder next time.
thanks
Is there any restrictions on where you can or cannot use chains?
I have drug a chain from the bow before trout fishing and going backwards. I used a 5 foot peice on a 10 foot rope. I noticed CEB dragging a chain on the recent night stalk from the stern. I guess centering it would be important.
Last Saturday(in 30 MPH wind), I was dragging a 14 lbs anchor tied up to a cinder block. It didn't improve my luck any.
DP
Never heard about chains for slowing down your drift until we were in Arkansas last week. They are legal on the White River below Bull Shoals but are not allowed on the North Fork of the White River below Lake Norfork.
I would say its a safe bet to drag a chain anywere but trout waters. However I do know there are some trout streams that don't allow it.
It seems that everyone is correct in their answers. People used to drag chains on the tailwaters of our major reserviors (Bull Shoals, Norfork, Little Red). It was common practice to use chains to keep the boat trimmed up while drifting in the currents. After seeing the problems caused by draggin' chains in the sensitive microenvironments of these tailwaters, Bull Shoals banned the usage. It is still legal in the other tailwaters, but it is highly unethical.
The use of a chain in a lake is completely different. There are no restrictions on any lakes or rivers other than those mentioned above. Your not going to tear up the bottom and your not going to destroy grass, brushpiles, etc. I'm pretty sure the chain technique was developed in the old oxbows off the Mississippi River. These lakes are relatively shallow, mud bottom lakes with little depth change. This is the proper application of using the chain.
If you are fishing a lake, such as Ouachita with deep major depth changes, a chain is probably not the best method of drifting. A driftsock will work much better in these applications. But if you are fishing stump infested shallow lakes with little depth change (such as Conway), a chain cannot be beat.
Ceb do you use a variable speed trolling motor when you use your chain or do you just drift with the wind?
Nah, Slick. I wish that I had a variable speed, and as soon as I have the bank on my side, I'm going to have one. But until then, I'm stuck with my 40lb thrust 5 speed. Slo-trollin' can be done with a 5 speed, its just that you have to stay on top of the trolling motor in any wind. The lowest setting is usually too fast for most applications (including cold months because you must move really slow unless the fish are very actively feeding). One option that I have considered (as inspired by Dr Pepper) adding is a big-foot switch to momentarily power on the trolling motor without twisting the handle.
This is my technique on boat control for slo-trollin'. In winds less than 10mph or in wind-protected areas, I will point the bow into whatever wind there is. I bump the trolling motor and let off of it. I give myself enough speed to swing the line about 45 degrees towards the boat. I then coast until the boat comes to a stop. Then repeat, but if I want to fish a certain spot I will just hold the boat in position with the trolling motor. If it is fairly windy, the coast won't last nearly as long as in calm wind conditions. Using this method is really handy for determining how fast they want it moving by remembering where most of the fish are biting in the speed sequence. If they only bite when I hit the end of my coast, then I know that they want it moving really slow.
In winds above 10mph or in open water areas with any wind, I will use the chain. I want the chain to either hold me in the wind or drift slowly. I use the wind to ease me along with my trolling motor using the same sequence as above. Drifting with the wind, I bump the trolling motor and the resistance of the chain causes the coast (just like above but going with the wind). When the chain slows me back down, I'll bump the trolling motor again. Once I figure out how fast they want the bait moving, I adjust the length of rope to the chain to maintain that speed in the wind. Having 1/2 the chain dragging the bottom gives you the least resistance. Having the entire chain on the bottom gives you the most resistance. From there, you can let out your entire length of rope (mine is 75' long) to gain the most braking power in the wind.
The important thing is...whether you are going into the wind or drifting with it, the boat and the baits are doing the same thing.
I'm going to repost the set-up so that no one misses it:
Quote:
Originally Posted by ceb
Both of my boats have 5-speed Motor Guides on them. I was lucky enough last year to find a Motor Max on the swap meet page. I think I gave 70-80 bucks for it but I put trolling motor plugs on it so I can just unplug from one boat and use it on the other. Sure beat having to buy 2 new trolling motors.
I am posting a couple of pictures of my drag chain system. I just riged it up about 10 days ago. I use it on the White river to slow the boat down and keep it more centered in the river. Each chain is about 28" long and weighs 6lb. I have three chains. The strengh of the current determines how many chains I use. The quick release system allows me to adjust the length of the rope as the river depth changes.
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s.../boat004-1.jpg
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...rk/boat007.jpg