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I was told today to never jump your start battery if it goes dead on the water. Was told it will destroy part of internal charging system. Can't remember the exact part. Anyone ever heard this? I've jumped mine before and don't think I hurt anything. I have been told if you ever go dead and switch out with one of your trolling batteries to not disconnect the battery again while it is running. Said it would destroy same part. Thoughts?
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I'd like to hear some replies on this.
I carry jumper cables in my oil box and have jumped many over the years. Hasn't hurt anything to my knowledge.
So much new stuff on the market now though, who knows. Rickie is Mr Wizard in electronics.
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I've heard both of those statements, before ... and I've done both of those things on a previous motor (1984 Yamaha 70HP). The motor did not suffer any effects, as far as I know, and was still running like a scalded dog when I sold it 15+ years later.
But, like what's been mentioned ... best consult with more learned people.
The ONE BIG concern I've heard about, besides the "possible" damage to the internal electronics, is the creation of "SPARKS" !! Most everything I've read says to open the bilge area (if that's where your batteries are located) and leave it open for ~15mins, in order to allow any combustive gases to escape ... BEFORE you attempt to hook up any cable connections.
Voltage regulator rectifier is the part in question. Like i said earlier I have jumped mine also. Have also switched batteries out with deep cycle a time or two to get me back to the marina but I've never pulled the battery out and switched with motor going. That's a pain. I like keeping jumpers because almost everyone will jump you in an emergency.
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You do not have to have to go to the trouble of switching a trolling motor battery to the starting position.Disconnect one side of the start battery and use(suggest you carry it with you in the boat) a pair of 10 or 12 american wire guage (awg) wires from TM battery to the outboard.Please use red n black to keep pos n neg correct.Start the outboard,remove your jumpers and reconnect the weak starting battery-The outboard's alternator will charge it so long as it's running.
You can use 10 or 12 awg because the outboard's starter draws relatively low current.Works fine - you will not hurt anything so long as polarities are right.
I see on Amazon 16 foot jumper cables in 10 gauge for around $16. Wouldn't that work? Also, why remove one side of the start battery cable and not both. That's the area I was told if you remove either cable the charge has nowhere to go and will destroy the rectifier. Just asking because not sure. I do like thought of not pulling to battery regardless.
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Disconnecting one side of the weak start battery removes the load of the weak battery so the TM battery can deliver higher starting voltage. You could disconnect both sides of the start battery but it gains you nothing. Do whatever you want-but it makes no difference,just a bit more hassle.
For what's it's worth my workplace has 2 trades in maintenance,mechanical maintenance technician (MMT)and electrical maintenance technician (EMT).I've been an EMT since 1984. You can believe what you want about your boat batteries.The voltage regulator limits alternator output to keep from overcharging the batteries.....That's it
Sounds good. You can tell you know more about it then the guy who scared me about this topic. What about the 16' jumper cable in 10 gauge. Should that work? I appreciate your help. I'm just trying to prevent screwing anything up and spending unnecessary money.
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Yes if you have room in the boat carrying regular jumper cables is fine. The benefit of the 10 or 12 awg wires is you can roll them up and put them in a sandwich bag.That is much easier to store and works just fine.You could do either.
Bought a set at Harbor Freight for around $7.00
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I carry jumper cables also
$7 sounds even better.
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Got a set of Coleman Cable Systems jumper cables that I carry in my boat. Haven't had to use them, yet, thankfully.
I've had them for decades ... 10' long & advertised in some places as "motorcycle jumper cables" (maybe because they come in a 8"x 6" pouch, so they wouldn't take up much space ??)
Look like this : http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/images/...T1c/s-l225.jpg
Haven't measured but standard cables are to short. My trolling motor batteries are in the front in a storage space and start battery is in the rear by the motor. Bet 16' will be needed. Have a Harbour Freight less then a mile from house. Will let you all know.
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No negative spark with the motor us connected to the battery system, will knock out the stator which charges the motor and battery. If possible, unplug the motor connection or disconnect the battery cables when charging the. Battery. No spark period.
I rarely charge my starting battery, as my 90HP Merc 2strk seems to keep it charged up just from running around on the lake.
I wonder why your starting battery wants to go dead on you .... or are you thinking ahead "just in case" ?? If it's not a pre-emptive maneuver, maybe a new starting battery would be a good idea (plus finding a set of cables that are long enough .... say, something like these : Nautikal 20' Marine Grade Jumper Cables | Academy )
If you want to have a bit of reassurance before splashing the tub in the drink spend 20 bucks on a load tester and evaluate the batteries condition after charging.No second guessing about their condition.
Just in case. My boat is older model so say I turn the aerater on and forget my battery will die. I have done it years ago. Wish I had it where it recycled on a timer or something but not how mine operates. Just keeps filling up and water drains out as it goes over the overflow pipe. I did just replace my battery recently because I thought it was getting drained when in fact it was a battery gone bad. Again got stuck on water with no battery. That brings up a new question which is are these expensive Optima battery types really worth it. I guess they are when your not stuck on the water. I had for years a cheap Wal-Mart battery that I guess lasted 5 or 6 years as a crank battery. I replaced it with a little more expensive one from Auto Zone but no where near a $180 battery.
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I have a 4 bank charger. One for starter and three for trolling batts. I run my livewell alot and it is off my starter along with my electronics. I use the largest batteries I can. 31 series. Motor needs to run a long time to keep much of a charging input. (So I've been told by Hitec Outdoors) . If anyone knows....they know. I use the Minn Kota MK 440D charger.