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So. I now need to "finish" the inside walls of my pole barn. Thinking plywood on bottom 8 foot, galvanized to ceiling. My question is this. I have 2x6 first on 30 inch centers. If I screw 1/2 inch plywood to them, will that be sturdy enough, or will the plywood warp over time? Do I need to install 2x4 stud walls first? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1e5f8606f6.jpg
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On second thought.... what about 3/4 plywood sheathing?
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I'd go peg board, sure is handy for hanging and storing stuff
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Yep. Planned to piece in a few pegboard sheets, but that is about 130 linear feet of wall. Don't think I need that much pegboard.Quote:
Originally Posted by MO' MONEY
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Such decisions! I wish I had your problem.......
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I used T111 on the interior of my new shop. Very happy with it so far.
T111? More info, please.
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Never Ming. Google is a wonderful thing. Did you affix the t111 to the girts directly, or did you build a stud wall between gifts and paneling?Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwannafish
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30 years in the state retirement system. Gonna do 5 more and concentrate on feathering my nest before I retire. Boat, tractor, shop.... all the toys I had to skip putting 5 kids through college!Quote:
Originally Posted by bandchaser
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Iwannafish, great shop! Your prolly gonna want to build walls between your poles. Even 3/4 sheets will not be supported well. 24in o/c would work. That's my 2 cents worth lol
My garage isn't as big. It's a 20X20 Multi Building. Metal studs every 5 ft. I used 7/16" OSB turned on it side next to the slab. 1/4" pegboard up to where the curve starts, on the back wall and above the garage door. Where the sheets come together without a stud I used a piece of 12 gauge steel behind it at the top and bottom. In the corners where I needed a stud to screw to I added a 2X2. It's holding up pretty well, finished it in '97, 20 years old.
PS:
The garage door is 10X10 off center on the front with a walk through door on the front too. On the walk in side there is a wall 7 ft from that side wall. It has OSB on both sides and pegboard up 7 ft to the loft. I've run out of pegboard space.
Out white metal on the inside.
You got that right!Quote:
Originally Posted by bandchaser
I don't have much experience with pole barns, but I would think 3/4 plywood would be ok on those 2x6's
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Got a question.
Was a foot of concrete poured in the holes and let cure a day or 2 before the poles were set?
Or, were the post stood in a bucket of treatment a week before sitting?
Five foot hole with 12 inches of gravel at bottom. Then post set and concrete poured up to 1 foot from top of hole. Cured about 1 week then slab poured. Slab filled rest of post holes to "lock" poles into floor. At least that's what the builder said.....
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I agree..... and maybe run a 1x4 vertically on all the seems, that would dress it up and secure the seamsQuote:
Originally Posted by feeshrman
Hope the gravel holds up.
Stepdad built a brick grill/smoker with lots of extras. We set 6 4X4X10 TP post without gravel, concrete or extra treatment. Poured a 10X12 slab and built a simple roof over it, except for the chimney. Added a 1X12 shelf on both sides waist high, 30" from the slab. 10 years later the shelf is at 24", 15 years it's at 19". When he died I couldn't stand under it. Mom sold the place and I never went back.
Run a 2X10 or 2X12 on the slab to post, 3 bolts per post. It will serve as a bumper and a termite barrier. Might keep a post from sinking.
We used osb board on our metal shop. It's 17 years old now. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e625336703.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bf441e975f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3780796a2f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e9db508662.jpg
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Just noticed your shop is a metal building. I had to build a traditional construction building because of neighborhood covenants. I'm not sure the T111 would work for you. It's really heavy as paneling goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwannafish
I wanted something that would be more durable than Sheetrock and give a bit of protection from water if I needed to spray the building out.
Dang dude, your shop looks real good now!!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Crappiemaniac
Much cleaner than mine.
That double door bench cabinet in the corner. I built a few of those back in the day.
3/4 orange plus,its 3/4 tounge and groove osb this stuff is as tough as it comes I use it on all of my houses that are on conventional floor.water wont it.
I would put metal on inside also. Once it's up your done forever. No warp or rot. You can wash it down without worry. Turn ridges vertical so they don't collect dust. My dad and brother both have garages this way.
My $.02 I know that it's all dollars and cent's but here goes. I agree with the 3/4" orange plus however I would run a piece of TREX or similar composite deck material on edge on top of the concrete slab first to set the plywood on. Keep moisture away from wicking up into whatever you use. Personally I would build the 2x4 wall between the post"s and run some outlets/etc. and use 7/16 osb. Never too much power!
My mom and stepdad moved to Oakland and shopped at Alco until it closed. I got a call to come help. One guy wanted all of the metal shelving for scrap. Stepdad wanted the 1/4"X4X5 pegboard. All of the pegboard in his shop and my garage came from Alco.
We found 2"X2X8 styrofoam for 50 cent per sheet to insulate the walls.
Lots of work John! I took all the bigger stuff we used to work on our trucks and trailers with and put in my Storage trailer. Sold some of it also. I finally got the 300 gallon old oil tank empty and moved.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rees Guide
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I would definitely do camouflage metal tin. It looks sharp. Don't know where you buy it but it's be seen it in a shop before.
A lot of guys around here are using #2 white metal. They just use 2 x 6 just like the outside walls. The bottom 2 x 6 is treated so you can wash the walls down if you want. White reflects light good also.
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The only time I have seen plywood warp in a shop was when moisture got involved. My buddy's shop would condensate so bad that the floor and the walls would be wet. He installed a vent fan in the attic part on a timer, it kicks on twice a day for 15 minutes each time. He no longer has an issue wth the condensation but his plywood has warped.
When they poured the slab did the concrete guys install a vapor barrier, plastic sheeting under the slab?Quote:
Originally Posted by Will_P
I doubt it. He bought the place with the shop/airplane hangar already there. It was probably built 20 yrs ago.
My first reaction is ..."Why is that shed so darn CLEAN?"" You got WAY too much time on your hands......
i think you would have a ton of waste if you used plywood straight to the 2x6's. if it were me i would frame out in between your posts then wall it up. my stepdad has a shop built exactly like yours and thats what we did with his. the post jut out about 2 inches but it gives it a good look. we used 1/2 inch bead board. its cheap and fairly light i did his entire 40/40 shop in 2 days by myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwannafish