Trailer wiring problem

Hi guys, as you know I just took delivery of my new/used boat yesterday. When I tried to hook it up to my Dodge 1500 truck, (the other guy had a Ford), the wiring connector would not reach from the boat to the truck. Luck would have it that I had an extension (double ended) in my truck. I used it to lengthen the trailer wire and make the connection to my truck. But, only the running lights worked, no brake lights or turn signals. So, after I got home, I removed the extension harness and rewired with a new 4 wire connector. Here it the rub. The trailer has 5 wires. I am assuming that since two of the wires are brown they are both to running lights and hooked them up accordingly. The green, and yellow to left and right signals accordingly with white to ground. I cranked up the truck and hit the signals, no joy either way. Also still not brake lights, but I do have running lights. I just can't figure what is wrong, perhaps I am doing it wrong, but I don't think so. Any help would be appreciated since I can't pull the trailer without brake lights and turn signals. Thanks in advance

Have you checked to make sure your light bulbs are good?
Sometimes one filament can burn out and the other still be good in double-filament bulbs.

My suggestion, take your rig to a U-Haul service center or somewhere else where they know what they are doing. You can spend lots of fishin time trying to make it work. They can have you on the road (with lights) in a few minutes.:)

Are you sure that the problem is with the boat trailer? We had a similar problem one time and it was the connection under the truck that was the problem, it had a loose wire.

I'm sure the truck connection OK because I pull both my RV (7 pin), and my utility trailer (4 wire) and every light works. I had thought of the bulb, but I haven't checked. I guess that's my next point. Don't have a Uhaul dealer whithin 100 miles, we are kind of in the sticks up here. But I'll check the bulbs, if that ain't it, I'll hook up the utility trailer to check my truck. If that works and the lights on the boat trailer don't, I'll just string some new wire, that only costs about $20. Thanks for the help guys.

Hey Fly,

You can use your battery charger to check each wire on your plug on the trailer. Put the black clip on the trailer and use the red to clip to each pin on the plug. And check the bulbs too.

sounds like a grounding problem on the trailer both your brake lights and your signal lights work off the same side of the bulb. if not grounded right they will not work.

Thanks guys, I popped the lens' off the lights and both bulbs were clouded and one was so burned it shattered when I tried to extract it. I assume that since one gasket was gone on the right side that when water got to the socket, it shorted and blew both bulbs. Never seen both blow before. Anyhow I'll pick up a couple of 1157's today and see if that fixes it. Thanks again.

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Originally Posted by flyflinger

Thanks guys, I popped the lens' off the lights and both bulbs were clouded and one was so burned it shattered when I tried to extract it. I assume that since one gasket was gone on the right side that when water got to the socket, it shorted and blew both bulbs. Never seen both blow before. Anyhow I'll pick up a couple of 1157's today and see if that fixes it. Thanks again.

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You may want to consider changing out your lights to sealed beam "knock-out" submersible lights like these - http://www.championtrailers.com/SUBMERSIBLE_LIGHTS.htm

Our Walmart carries them in the automotive department.

The conventional boat trailer lights always leak at some point. You can unplug them every time you back the trailer in the water but even a little water in the bottom of the housing can splash up on a hot light bulb and destroy it. It's a pain to try to remember to unplug them every time and plug them back in again. They are always prone to corrosion in the bulb socket too, which is a maintenance hassle.

With the "Knock-out" type the bulb is sealed in the housing and when it eventually burns out you replace the whole sealed beam by pushing it out of the vinyl grommet that holds it in the frame and unplug the power supply. Then you just plug the power supply into a new light and press it back into the grommet. It takes less than a minute and you don't need any tools.

I trailer my boat about 15,000 miles a year and very seldom have to change out a light so it's worth a little extra expense to me. I think the grommet reduces jarring, which helps the bulbs last longer.

I had a problem like that and it was a blown fuse spent about 2hrs messing with it and come to find out there was another fuse box under the hood of my truck looked in there and seen a parking/tail light fuse and pulled it out and it was blown replaced it and everything worked fine. Most of the time on trailer wiring the ground is what causes most of the problems you may want to check and make sure you have a good ground.

My 03 Chevy has a separate fuse block for trailering. I borrowed a trailer last year. I didn't think much of it when the lights didn't work on this one. But, when they didn't work on my trailer, it became a conquest. All of the lights worked on my pickup. But, the fuses were burned that led to the trailer system. I found the fuse panel under the hood that contained the separate system.
DP

Hey Jerry, those lights look like just the ticket. I think I may try them. Thanks for the tip.

Just came back inside from changing out the bulbs. Prombem solved, till the next time. I made a new gasket for the lens may hold a while till I can get a couple of those lights Jerry spoke of. Thanks again.