Which snap do you use on your crank baits when pulling and what size?
Barrel Snap Swivel:
http://i68.tinypic.com/1hbkuv.jpg
or
Duo Lock Snaps:
http://i67.tinypic.com/16awm01.jpg
Which snap do you use on your crank baits when pulling and what size?
Barrel Snap Swivel:
http://i68.tinypic.com/1hbkuv.jpg
or
Duo Lock Snaps:
http://i67.tinypic.com/16awm01.jpg
None on crank baits, I just tie them on.
me tooQuote:
Originally Posted by Royalwapiti
90% tie them on. 10% Norman speed clip in the largest size (muskie???)
If pulling cranks,this is what I use.I don't know anyone that ties them on ,would be aggravating retieing everytime you changed colors
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...576a1b9f88.jpg
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I have used the same ones Jamie shows in his pic for years but just bought some like the ball-bearing ones shown in OP.
I didn't have much trouble with line twist, so I seldom used the swivels. Some baits will roll when pulled too fast so I did keep some in the boat. Most of the time I used the duo lock with great success and it didn't matter if they were black or chrome, both did well. The only downside to the smaller ones is difficulty getting my hands to cooperate with opening them. I use the forceps (hemostats) to open and close the smaller ones. Never had one fail when I got hung.
Snaps
Plain snaps only, such as those made by Duo-Lock. These are needed, if you do not want to retie every time you want to change lures. Retying leads to mistakes and a higher chance of knot failure. No one can guarantee a re-tie will not fail. No one is perfect. Besides, the snap allows for freer, more natural lure movement in the water. Win-win.
However, under no circumstances should you use a snap connected to the lures split ring. Way too much hardware. Will lead to an unwanted/unneeded change in the lure's action. Same with snap & swivel combinations. JMO. :)
I'll start asking the crappie that come over the sides of my boat hooked on cranks with barrel swivels attached to split rings what they think about that statement. I couldn't disagree more.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crestliner08
Always attach the snap swivel to the split ring, no problems here.Everyone I have ever trolled cranks with does the same,I agree with mrdux [emoji2]Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdux
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I thought that is what the ring is for.:confused: I use #7 clip swivel so I can see it to open the clip. No problems.
Same here....no problemsQuote:
Originally Posted by blueball
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#3 duolock with a #5 swivel 18 inch up the line. Hook the snap to eye or split ring witch ever the crank come with
Berkley snaps.....or the the snap swivels (Berkley) will also work. I like the smallest size in both :ThumbsUp
just think how many more you'd have caught if you didn't use them.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdux
New to pulling cranks a learning curve.Our lakes are full of trees under the water.We call them no seeum,s they eat crank's.Have lost several good high dollar bandit crank's using the snap's when the snap caught on a piece of bark still left on the old sunkin.No seeum's.Finally switched to Cabelas power Pro Depth hunter braid in 20 lb test.Tie directly to crank's"Switched to arki's" no problems have not lost a bait in last few trip's.When you lose 5 or 6 or 10 bandit's it's time to try something else.Just learning thanks for the thread and Info. our 2cent's Cannot afford a Case of crank's like Creekslick. of every color.LOL:biggrin:yikes
I use 30lb power pro and snaps and pull though man made steak beds and never have a problem.Keep my drag set tight and if I break off the crank usually floats to to top.Dont think changing the type of cranks you use is going to make hangups less unless there just running shallower[emoji12]Quote:
Originally Posted by jackie53
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So this is what happened to my missing stakes eh!!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by blueball
I started pulling cranks for white bass and sauger over 40 years ago with baitcaster tackle. Line twist was a constant enemy but I hated the swivels that were available at reasonable cost then. I used 14-17 pound mono. I tied directly to the crank split ring.
The swivels ,and especially the ball-bearing types available now, are far superior to the old days. My reason for using swivels has 95% to do with line twist and 5% to do with changing out cranks. I have never seen action of any bait be ruined by using a swivel. Sure, if I was using 4 pound mono and tiny cranks I would be more particular about having less hardware in front of the crank. The smallest cranks I pull/push for crappie are pretty large even for bass standards of years past.Some rival the biggest bass types.
Over the years and thousands of crappie/bass/catfish/drums/sauger/etc caught on cranks, I can honestly remember just a couple of instances where the swivel released and I lost a crank but kept the swivel. Those couple of instances would never scare me into tying directly and forsaking the swivels.
This subject has been hashed and rehashed here and is as contentious as Ford vs Chevy. I do what works for me but have no desire to tell somebody else that it is the only way to fly. Do what works for your situation.
Barrel swivel...one slimmer, and you have plenty of line twist
No snap no swivel. Just a good proven loop knot to the split ring. I have used this method for decades to catch crappie, bass, pike, and walleye on various depth, various models, tight or wide wobble. It does work well. :ThumbsUp
When or if you reach my age, you will appreciate things such as clip swivels and 3 layer toilet paper.
Blueball's Bandits stole my stakes. Probably stole my fish too. The name Bandit fits like a glove.
I use duo-lock snaps on all cranks. I've used barrel swivels, and even Sampo Ball Bearing Swivel/Snaps ... but, never saw where they stopped line twist. I still have a pk of #12 Eagle Claw barrel swivels w/safety snap ... unopened.
I've yet to have a duo-lock snap come open or break during use (or when bait is snagged). And yes, I attach them to the split ring of the crank ... and I've never seen where it has made any difference in the action of the crank. I've used them for many decades.
Not absolutely sure of the size, but it's likely a #1 (about 1/2" long) ... and don't remember the brand, as I remove them from their packaging and place them in a small zip-lock bag to keep them from spilling out in the tackle tray.
Cheaper.Quote:
Originally Posted by blueball
Are you pulling cranks with a bunch of poles or one pole,crank pullers usually want a snap swivel because of line twist and the ability to change out baits on the flyQuote:
Originally Posted by silverside
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#2 Duo Lock snap. Been using them as long as they been out. Never found any difference in how a bait runs with them.
I am pulling with 1 pole per person. Hand held so as to pay out line, adjust rod tip up down to change depth by 1 foot or two. Each person controls his rods action.Quote:
Originally Posted by blueball
Haha,just checking,from you previous post it sounded like you lost more baits when using bandits ,lol.I like cheap,bought a lot of over 100 bandits new in the package when I got started for $2.98 a piece.Have also bought a bunch cheap as they go onsale hear and there,lol.[emoji2]Quote:
Originally Posted by jackie53
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I'll drive you some more steaks Mr tom,just send me the coordinates [emoji23]Quote:
Originally Posted by Cane Pole
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Wow, this was a touchy subject I brought up. I have been using the duo loc snaps but my buddy uses the barrel swivel snaps. Neither one of us know which is better and is why I asked the question.
Not really that touchy of a subject.Next time out if you want to try without do it on one side and see how you like it.My opinion is just from what some of the best crankbait pullers there is have told me and I listen.Lots of guys I've fished with though have had there own way and if it works there's nothing wrong with it.For example most don't like running 30lb powerpro braid like i dobecause it don't have any stretch.And I do believe it costs me a fish every now and then but the only reason I run it is because I only loose 2-4 cranks a year and I pull thought steak beds and various pieces of structure.[emoji2]Quote:
Originally Posted by tncrappiebass
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Which is better is.......the one you like the bestQuote:
Originally Posted by tncrappiebass
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Duo-lock snaps straight to the split ring. No noticeable difference in action using the split ring in my years of trolling. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I would absolutely lose my mind if I were tying directly to the lure without a snap or snap swivel due to changing out colors or lure styles on a regular basis.
Plain Duo-Lock Snaps. Sz #1 on Bandit 100 & 200. Sz #2 on Bandit 300, Arkie 350's and Cadron Creeks Custom Cranks C-55!!!
I clip straight to the lure, do not use the split ring!
Tight Lines - Dave
So your saying you remove the split ring that comes on these lures ? With the combination of the snap and the split ring the lure has the freedom to move anyway it wants to....no restriction to action at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveB40
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Use "tracback", then pick a spot.Quote:
Originally Posted by blueball
I know this isn't a question for spoons, but this will make sense in a minute:
With spoons, there are a few companies that come with split rings attached to the top of the bait (where you connect to your main line). This is to improve action of the bait and allow for minimal interference. DreamWeaver is one company that does this and they have done extensive testing (I'm friends with many of them). Some spoon companies are too cheap to put on the rings or it takes too long. When running salmon boats, we NEVER put a spoon in the water without a split ring on the front. Always added our own.
SOOO, when it comes to cranks... those rings are put on for a reason. Certain baits perform differently with a ring vice without. Unlike a spoon where the ring allows for free movement (no matter the spoon), all cranks are NOT created equal. Cranks come in several shapes sizes and colors and many of them have different connecting platforms. For me, I prefer a Duo Lock for two reasons: One, it aids in being able to remove the bait quickley, Two, it allows for free movement of the crank bait. Allowing it to wobble from side to side, and tip and yawl. IF it comes with a split ring it is there for a reason. This is why I prefer a Duo Lock over a standard snap swivel. Many of the snap swivels have a smaller opening and do not allow for the the bait to wobble as designed.
For years, many people tied a standard fishermans knot directly to a Rapala HOWEVER: the box showed what was called a Rapala Knot (commonly known as a loop knot). This was provided from the manufacturor to the purchaser to SHOW them that the bait performs BEST when not impeaded by tieing direct or using tight snap swivels.
In summary, for things that rotate (IE spoons) I alwasy use a quality ball bearing swivel and split ring to allow for proper movement of the spoon and rotation without line twist. For cranks, they are not designed to rotate, I use a large mouth Duo Lock to allow the bait to move from side to side. No need for a swivel. If they are rotating, it is duo to improper tuning of the bait (most are not tuned out of the box) or issues resulting from improper line application to the reel (allowing for line twist when adding line).
Used this setup for many years with a 18-36" fluorocarbon leader. The barrel swivel helps to prevent line twist with the added bonus of helping to collect weeds or algae in the water that would otherwise end up on the lure, thus fouling its action.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hookin'&Cookin'
Instead of a barrel swivel to collect weeds, we use an Off Shore Tackle OR16 clip snapped on the line about 6 feet in front of the cranks. Works like a champ.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugtussle