Like I said, tight fit. Can't get your hand on it. No slack in pvc water line.
Brown stuff in tray is from liquid wrench stuff. Hose connector (black) still stuck and can't get loose.
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Like I said, tight fit. Can't get your hand on it. No slack in pvc water line.
Brown stuff in tray is from liquid wrench stuff. Hose connector (black) still stuck and can't get loose.
you need a plummer, but I'm too far away.:biggrin
:hesaid Call the plumber.
What plumber? Few listings, but phones been disconnected or I get a full mailbox recording.
You might be able to get it with a basin wrench and a pipe wrench. If you can get the basin wrench on the washer hose fitting,and the pipe wrench on the shaft of the basin wrench,you can generate a lot of force.If that does not break it loose...then you may have to take off that paneling and re-plumb from the pipe below the washer box up to a new hose bib fitting. You can buy a cheap basin wrench and cheap 12" pipe wrench if you don't have one. Sometimes if that washer hose was seeping a little it will corrode that hose fitting on there something terrible....thats when you just have to change that hose bib. If you got a helpful hardware man they can help you through it. Lot of new type fittings out there now makes plumbing pretty easy for novices. Them washer boxes are a pain. I always just as soon have my hose bibs screwed on the wall in the open. Shut the water off just incase you break something below the bib when your a twisting on it. If you do just have to re-pipe it anyway.
If you can reach it with some Chanel locks or vice grips you should be able to get it loose but you have to grip it on the outer edge to get it to turn when you close down on any other part of it you are squeezing the threads on the hose down into the threads that's on your cut off that's why it's not turning . Hope that makes since to ya :twocents
plumbers wrench which is used to handle the nuts on the back side of a sink. It should work on your problem. EB
here is a link to what doggone is referring to: Shop BrassCraft 11-in Basin Wrench at Lowes.com
this shows what you need and how it is used.
First thing I would do is disconnect everything else and get it out of your way so you can get in there and work without being in a bind.
Two pair of channel-loc pliers, one pair on the valve body and one pair on the hose connector, hold the valve body tight so as not to twist it off, the channel-loc pliers on the hose connection will need to be held tight enough to grip the connector but not so tight as to pinch. Before you start to seriously get after it, you can selectively pinch the hose connector several times in different areas around the circumference to break the rust free and allow the connector to spin off.
I would turn the water off to your house before you try this, just in case.
This is how I would do it, good luck, wish I lived closer.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...sdwnj9n9s.jpeg
I have to disagree with the comments to use a basin wrench, places the hands to far apart and you will not get enough one handed leverage on the basin wrench to break it free.
Also disagree with the comments on the vise-grips, you cannot sufficiently control the power of the grip.
sell the house
Channel locks are you're friend
MAN THEY WILL PINCH THE MESS OUTA YOU TOO!!!! HAHAHAHAHAQuote:
Originally Posted by kycreek
Yup, channel locks have always worked for me. But BillBob's solution will work for sure.
I like Billbobs solution too. But then you would have to rig the new house like this one. Too much static there. It might have better cellular signal though.
First, turn off the house water. Then take a hack saw blade and short stroke a weak spot in one side and spread it with a screwdriver or whatever you can get to fit and replace it. Squeezing doesn't seem to be working.
All else fails I have to go with the re-plumb idea too.
Before you go wrenching on anything spray that fitting down with penetrating oil. I prefer PB Blaster, others like Liquid Wrench. Either will work, never use WD-40.
Spray, tap, spray tap, spray, tap. The oil will soak into the threads and dissolve he rust/corrosion. Tap lightly and the oil will work further in with each tap. Sometimes you have to pull out the propane/Mapp gas torch to heat it up. Heat will make it expand and give more room for the penetrating oil to work.
Plus the oil will lubricate and make removal easier once you break it free.
Been wrenching on my junk for decades. Bought a gallon of PB Blaster when I was maintaining a fleet of 6 vehicles, all daily drivers. Great stuff. I got tired of breaking stuff and trying to drill and tap new holes.
Use an adjustable wrench on the bottom fitting since it has a shoulder on it or the proper size open end wrench. If the channel locks don't work a pipe wrench should work on the top fitting. Be careful with using too much pressure.