Getting into pulling crank baits was wondering what lb test line y'all use??
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Getting into pulling crank baits was wondering what lb test line y'all use??
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I see a lot of people using line counter reels, spooled with 30lb test braid ... then a 5' leader of 6lb test mono. I believe those people are usually "pushing" cranks (ie - using trolling weights at the main line/leader connection). Some even use weights when "pulling", too, but mainly for the angler in the back seat (while the angler in the front is pushing cranks).
Straight "pulling" (ie - longline trolling with cranks) is usually done without trolling weights, and generally 10lb test line is used. Now, that may be personal choice on the pound test used, or it may be because most crankbait diving depth charts are measured using 10lb test line (or line with an equivalent diameter of 10lb test mono).
I prefer to "push" (jig or cranks) as it gives me greater control & maneuverability, since I don't have nearly 100ft of line out just to get to the desired depth.
With braid you go by diameter. Most pulling charts are based on 10 lb diameter line, either mono or braid. I use a 10 lb diameter braid that has approximately 40 lb test. While crappie doesn't require this heavy line the stumps, brush, drums, catfish, bass, and stake beds built strong enough to have been used on Normandy beach does require it.
I have tried braid and am currently using 10 lb suffix. I prefer the braid until it gets tangled up, then it can be a real mess. The next time I change line I expect to go with 40 lb braid. You might want to start with mono until you are sure you want to keep pulling cranks. It can be a little expensive. Unless you start losing cranks at a high rate.
Don
Not speaking for mrdux but he pulls with 12 lb big game trilene. Switched from 10 pound and gets more cranks back from the bottom of ole Ky Lake. I have switched this year to the twelve pound and I get more cranks back. I know people who use braid but don't for the life of me see how something doesn't break when they snag em up!!!:Doh: I guide doing this and go thru so much line I couldn't justify the cost. If we get lines hung together, which happens alot with up to six people on my pontoon who are usually new at pulling, I just cut and retie....easier than undoing giant bowls of :spaghetti:. I use the Okuma Magda 15's for line counting AND they hold 300+ yds of line.
Trilene Big Game 12 pound Solar Collector green. Like Rich said, I will pull 2X more baits loose with 12 than I did with 10. I rarely worry about getting maximum depth on a crankbait so the 12 doesn't hurt me there either.
I recently paid almost $150 for a 1500 yard spool of Power Pro Depth Hunter 40/10 braid and I'm scared to death to put it on rods that clients will be using. I would lose sleep over going thru a spool of that 2X per year due to tangled rat's nests. I can harp at clients until I'm blue in the face but the vast majority don't understand how important it is to keep a close eye on the rod tip to gauge bait action. One crank running bad can tangle enough gear that will take me 20 minutes to clear out.
I recently had an 83 year old grandfather pulling cranks with me. He hooked a drum about 15 pounds with 80 feet of line out. I knew it was either a drum or catfish and I told him he needed to get it to the boat as quickly as possible to keep from tangling everything up.He said he wanted to enjoy the fight then tire it out so it wouldn't break his line. 5 minutes later I was cutting 7 crankbaits apart. If that had been braid I would have lost 2-300 yards of line. With the mono I probably lost 40 yards of line and was back to fishing much quicker.
Braid line is to flimsy for me, almost impossible to untangle, very hard to tie a knot in the wind. I use 10# mono.
I guess one of the biggest differences is that I stop and retrieve a hung lure and so far this year I haven't lost many. In years previous I lost a lot in fact I felt like I had stock in the Bandit company. I am pretty sure the guides don't stop to retrieve a lure. It is a choice to be sure but I have the time to try and when I use braid I put on leather gloves and bring in what ever I hung or straiten the hooks. I have lost 4 or 5 lures this year and 3 were to Gar. I am also the only one in the boat so I normally am able to keep tangles to a minimum.
Don
My boat never stops. Hang-up? Break it off or pull it loose. Clients are paying me for the maximum amount of fishing time so I keep distractions to a minimum.
Words from somebody who learned the hard way............................when you do get baits tangled up with mono, it is 100% advisable to cut the cranks off the tangled lines as they come to the boat. It is 10X faster to retie baits on after untangling lines than it is trying to get lines untangled with baits on them. I keep small side wire nipper pliers within reach and snit the knots off as soon as I can get my hands on the bait. I do that when I have a large fish hooked in the net also. catfish can be almost impossible to get unhooked when you are dealing with an excited client with a rod in their hands. I snip it off and retie.
With Doug. Never stop the boat. Switching from mono to braid greatly reduced the number of lost lures for me but others have better luck with sticking to mono.
When untangling a couple lines remember going slow is smooth, and smooth is fast. Getting rushed only makes the mess worse and ensures cutting the lines. While cranking means occasionally leaving a mess of lines in the water, I do everything possible to reduce this byproduct of fishing in the water. Remember to keep trash in the boat and dispose of it properly and be good stewards of this creation God gave us.
I like mono for trolling due to the stretch it has with a soft mouthed fish such as crappie, I feel like I boat more fish with it. I've used 10lb Big Game mono for several years and I've had no real issues at Green or Nolin but have switched to 12lb this year after moving to KY Lake and speaking with mrdux. There's a whole lot more wood in this lake than I'm accustomed to and so far I feel like I'm bringing more baits back to the boat after hanging up in a stakebed or brushpile when compared to the 10lb mono.
I do keep a hound dog lure retriever in the boat and will attempt to retrieve a snagged lure depending upon the situation and if I am fishing with others. I've got better than a 75% retrieval rate with it but it does take valuable time that guides can't risk while with a client.
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Do those crank baits leave much of a scent trail? Them hounds don't need much if they are any count!!!!
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For the guys using line counter reels how do you keep them accurate when your constantly cutting off line thanks
I try to keep my reels full of line. If I have to cut a large amount off a reel, I'll usually take that reel off the rod and replace it with one of the spares I keep in the boat for that very reason. Same applies for a serious backlash. An Okuma Magda15 reel will hold 300 yards (900feet) of line and we are only using maybe 150 feet. I will strip off enough line to be about 1/2 full on the spool then replace the line back to full spool. I will replace ALL the line at least once per season. The 1/2 left on the spool when I have to cut line off only serves as spool backing anyway but it will twist deep into the spool if allowed to.
I buy the Trilene Big Game solar at Ken's TBC in Lake City and a 4700 yard spool costs about $34. (Yes 4700 yards!). I figure for those prices, I can keep good line and accurate measures on the reels for clients.
I really think the line-counter numbers are mainly to make sure I have a semi-accurate accounting for how far back the bait should be running. I have checked the counters at times and they are close at best. There is no doubt the reel having too much or too little line on it will affect the accuracy but that accuracy doesn't have to be perfect, just consistent. I just want to know I am letting out the same amount of line each time after catching a fish on a particular bait according to the counter even though that counter may be less than perfectly accurate.
Every couple months I re calibrate my line to the reel counters. To do this you need a long measuring tape or knowing a preset distance. I take the tape and pull out 100 feet. Then walk back and set counter to 0. Take end of line and walk out to the 100 foot mark pulling the line out. Walk back and check to see if counter says 100 feet. Add or remove line until the line matches the marked distance.
If you do this to all your reels it will give you plenty of exercise. Lol. You can also use depth hunter line and just count out the distance as the line spools out. I use both for two reasons. First, the marked line is the only way I can accurately tell the amount of line out from the line tip to the waters surface. Second, if I have a reel counter malfunction on the water the marked line will allow me to accurately spool out line.
Bear in mind, this doesn't have to be done to catch fish. Many just put out lines and as one starts catching fish adjust other poles to it. However, if you are a little ocd and want to get the most out of the depth charts you can go to these lengths.
Finally, realize there isn't only one correct way. Do it how you want too while having fun doing it. If it isn't being fun, stop doing it.
This little dude has more than earned his keep with crankbait prices soaring the way they have. He doesn't eat much either.
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I'm a little ocd so I like to be close as possible. Lol
I am using Wall Marshall camo 10# until it is gone. The lures follow me around and that is what counts. Hey, I won several big spools of it @ Grizzly Jigs. I am being frugal. Some call it being cheap.
I don't under stand why you say that you keep cutting your line off. I am on the 3rd year of the same line on my reels. I use braid for 2 year and then flop the line so I am using the other end for 2 years. I do use mono leaders and change them alot.