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I saw a boat with a piece of looked like PVC plate,4'x 5'x1/2', on the back to mount the transducer to. My new transducer with my Helix 9 won't mount in the same holes as the old one. I was thinking of using a plate like that to mount mine so I don't have to keep drilling holes below the waterline every time I change transducers. Anyone use one of these and how is it mounted, screwed or glued?
I mounted mine with 2 screws and a little sealer but some like Sternsaver are meant to be epoxied to the boat.
Found one on Amazon
I recently used this: McMaster-Carr
1" thick, 4" wide, 1' long
Worked very well.
Wish I had seen that before I ordered.
Cancel your order.Quote:
Originally Posted by deltarat
I used one that was about 4x12 and 3/4 thick. I removed transducer and filled those holes with SS screws. Then I drilled holes on the transom side so the mounting plate would go over the screw but not all the way thru. I attached the plate with 5200 and have had no issues with 2 TDs mounted on it http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...47255adfe6.jpg
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Here is s pic with the TDs mounted. I made a mistake and have since swapped the location so the SI TD is lower than the sonar so there is no interference. My boat came with a lowrance elite 5 in the dash which I use for high speed depths sometimes. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...184540afe1.jpg
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Good job Marine! Like that color. Are those granite floors in your garage? LOL
That's what I want to do. I am waiting on my board to arrive. You just glued with out screws?
That's a nice way to mount your transducers.What's 5200?
There are no screws thru the board and into the hull, just 3M Marine 5200 Adhesive/sealant. Used acetone to wipe off both the spot on the hull and the back of board then put a nice layer all over the back of the board and then tape in place. I think you need to let adhesive cure for 5 days.
I don't know exactly what is on the garage floor but it is some type of coating. Was done before I bought the house. The floor is not as neat as it looks in this pic. Very faded where it gets traffic and slicker than snot when it gets wet.
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I did the exact same thing as marine4life back in February. Spent a lot of time on the water and made some long trips down the interstate with no issues since then. I used the fast cure 3m 5200 marine adhesive. Cures in 12 hrs I believe. No holes in the hull. [emoji1303]
Having it set back like that are you better able to keep it reading while on plane? Mine loses bottom when I run.
Mine does not read at high speeds but I have it that way on purpose. I use the in dash lowrance when I need the high speed read and that TD is set about 1/2 inch below the hull and angled for straight down when on plane. The HB SI transducer is slightly above the bottom of hull to help protect it and I have it angled back up pretty high to get the best side imaging while at idle speed. There is a YouTube video that shows how to set the angle to ensure it looks straight down while boat is moving slowly using a level and handful of change. This is the only boat I have set up so my knowledge is limited but I followed all the guidance I received or could find on here.
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I have been researching this for mounting my new Helix 5 SI transducer on my 1648 flat bottom. Going with no screws and 3M 5200 is a fine method, however, most of the advice I have read said it works best if the boat transom mounting location is coarsely sanded then wiped with acetone. It's also recommended to even "mill" (prob not the correct term) out some grooves/pockets in the cutting board for better adhesion.
I did scuff the transom and prep it with acetone but I did not put grooves or holes in the cutting board. I've been pleased and kinda surprised so far because that 3D structure scan ducer is pretty heavy. I'd guess 18 ounces or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by scout-j-m
I've never been a big fan of the smaller mounting plates. I prefer the bigger ones myself. Unfortunately, Cabela's stopped selling the larger ones. We actually purchase oversized cutting boards and cut them down.
I simply do not trust the adhesive.
The picture below shows the boards that we use and the size of them. If there are any rivets or anything where the board goes, we recess the board before installation. This photo shows the side image transducer on the outside. I was tired that night and placed it to the inside the next day when I found the error of my ways. All screw holes are above the water line (total of 5 stainless screws). A small amount of marine grade silicone is placed on each screw. In the event you are going over existing holes, recess the board really well, insert a screw with silicone to plug the hole, and then fill the recess with silicone before installing the board. No need to put silicone around the board.
My fish finder reads bottom at 45mph. IF adjusted correctly, you shouldn't lose bottom.
Attachment 242537
I bought a piece of PVC board from Lowes, a 3/4" x 5 1/2" by 8' long piece cost $13. I used the JB Weld Marine Epoxy with 3900psi strength rating. I read that the 3M5200 can cause oxidation on aluminum hulls. Probably take 50 years for it to rust out, but who knows, plus the JB Weld was easy to get, it was in stock at Auto Zone. Wish I would have saw this sooner, I could have cut you a piece and sent it to you OP. I have 7ft of board left and no use for it... :dono
There is a positive benefit of using any type of spacer or set-back of the xducer from the transom ...simply by the way the water flows out from under the hull pad ...Quote:
Originally Posted by smashdn
http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps11mocrex.jpg
Rickie
I thought about that snubby but that is about $40 at the local lumber yard and Lowes is 50 miles away.Thanks for the offer though.
Snake that is a great picture. Are you saying the SI transducer does not have to be below the hull if it is spaced back on a board?
The water coming out from under the hull is naturally trying to rise to get back to the surface level ...Quote:
Originally Posted by deltarat
So the xducer can be somewhat higher on the transom than attached directly to the transom with no spacer ...
How much higher would just have to be experimented with ...
Rickie
ok thanks
Search on ebay for hdpe. A lot of machine shops sell scrap pieces for cheap. I bought 3 that were 4 x 10 x 1 for $20 for all 3.
1" Black King Starboard HDPE Lot of 2 Pieces | eBay
You know I thought I had it adjusted slightly with the rear end of it up, so that it would skim the surface. The parting line on the transducer is about where the bottom of the boat is. Should be in water all the time there. I do not throw a rooster tail and on dead calm water I might be able to keep bottom but the least little chop or porpoising and it is gone and jumps to 1000 ft or something strange. I just need to fiddle with it.
I got my board mounted yesterday and tried to mount my transducer like your picture. I mounted it on the lower step about 12" to the right of the motor. I can't raise it enough to get the top of it above the bottom of the boat because it hit the bottom of the boat. The only way it may work on the step is to be right next to the drain plug behind the motor. Will be a problem mounting it in the center of the boat. the only other option I have is to either use enough spacers to bring it back to the edge of the transom or move it up on the transom. What should I do?
There is the possibility of the xducer creating cavitation that can be a problem for the outboard directly behind the xducer ...Quote:
Originally Posted by deltarat
Off to the side any at all would help ...
Rickie
I managed to get it about 6" to the right of center. I hope that works. That is the only place I could get it with only half of the transducer hanging below the bottom of the boat. I am really glad I bought the board to mount it or my boat would look like swiss cheese.