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I saw in the FCC last tournament results that most teams elected to use the push/pull method.
I have been curious about this for some time.
I was wondering about the advantages and disadvantages.
Why would you elect to do this verses all pushing or all pulling.
What circumstances would make you choose this method etc.
Thanks in advance for the info.
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In my opinion and I'm a beginner it's a searching technique once you find them and establish a pattern you can slow down and go to primarily spider rigging to get more quality bites!
Smaller boat and cant sit side by side maybe? Now remove the tourney part and could easily be to fish more rods.
Pushing gets to fish before motor spooks them and with pretty accurate depth. Pulling spreads out covering ground for aggressive fish and baits have more action. Push/pull is big with crank bait trollers. It gets better bait separation and control. Fish must have been scattered and slow. Maybe an extreme pressure change?
Big Slab pretty much onto the answer (he also was involved in tournament Saturday)
CrappieLimits "dropped dead, spot on" the answer.
Barametric pressure was not all out of line nothing like front commin in or violent wind changes, fact is
wind had dropped considerably and stayed mostly calm or little ripple compared to be hammered Thurs
& Friday with winds out of EAst on prefish
Pushing - besides ahead of trolling mtr sound, you are working with weighted baits, precise depths,
colors & tight spread.
Pulling - you are working mostly artifical or tipped artifical - jigs, colors - mostly in the 32nd & 48th oz
size - unless looking to run a deeper pattern 8 th - & 16th //// or 16th & 32nd. - will be working lines
out from 20 ft - 125 ft - mostly a searching pattern
Your answer to Saturday's tournament - Fish were scattered - on flats, contour drops, low rise sandbars.
Fishing per-say was good except - most fish caught were undersize and/or cookie-cutter 14 - 15 oz good
eating fish The needed tourament wgt - winner was 1 lb 04.8 oz. thats not a considered a tourament
fish, but he was winner - second biggest fish 1 lb 03.1 oz.
Another somewhat strange thing - deeper water on west side of lake was warmer than water on east side
by 3.5 - 3.5 degree.
Again, it was a good day of fishing-
This technique also requires you to figure out the proper trolling speed and weight needed upfront. Does anyone have any ideas on how this is done? Personally I think now is a good time for this technique.
These of some of the personal things i work with:
Everyone to some degree incorporates their own starting point
Most generally - when spider rigging - movement speed can be from .3 - .8
Trolling speed - any speed can be used as long as you can get movement out of product you are
pulling: Wgt of jig - depth of jig - also becomes a factor.
Spider riggin - 1/2 oz wgt will help you get a depth needed & angle will depend on speed applied
and/or increasing wgt to main line to hold depth
There are formulas for long-ling depths and amount of wgt - to jig used.
Have seen people - wgt front lines as much as 2 1/2 oz to main depth / such as "down rigging" effect
Long-ling - have seen speed vary from .8 - 2.4 mph (hallin the mail)
Each and every lake will require time spent on - to get feel of lake and what fish want
Great info
Thanks everyone!
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I use the push, pull method about 90% of the time and do very well at it.
I've seen you out there and it looks like you know what you're doing !Quote:
Originally Posted by Anchor Man
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I have done both and done well also, but not here in FL yet. This time last year I push/pulled mostly to learn the pattern and present different baits. Once the rods/weight is established, then it doesn't matter what jig/crank/spoon/ whatever is attached. I used 2 oz trolling weights, 3 way swivels, and lots of duo lock snaps and a ball bearing swivel sometimes. I also didn't buy the real long rods and had to run things a bit different to get separation and keep caught fish from tangling with other lines. I use 7' and 11' rods and found along the way that my BGJP's weren't up to the task. The short rods pointed 45* and longer ones were almost 90*. Not the traditional rig. I used smaller baits on the front than I would pull from the rear. As has been already stated, there were days when front out performed the back of the boat and others that all the rods were busy. It isn't for everyone but I've had fun doing it. Sometimes the front is all I set out for the added turning ability. Splitting the baits between jigs and cranks gave good results too. As already said, tuning for the particular lake is key, and having fun doing it is just a plus.
Excellent response Skeet,
Have never tried the 2 oz - thats really setting a specific depth
Do you use 2 oz up and/or both ends or just up front and normal wgt of jig-crank on rear ?
I usually don't get into cranks until August - when they seem to be starting to put on the "feed bag"
I use a 3 way swivel with one leg to main line, 2nd leg has a duo lock for the weight of the day and the 3rd leg gets pre made leaders with duo locks on each end for the bait of choice. The snap for the weight allows the lead to be removed for transport. I use strictly braid for the main line, and it's hi vis. Any light color will do for what I do. I take the snap on the end of the main line and starting at 10' i use a sharpie and make inch long marks every 2 feet for 10 marks or so to tell me how deep to return to easier than most other methods. I only use weight over 1/2oz up front and found 3 oz weights ungainly for the way I fish. Lots of folks like 3's, to each his own. for the longline I use the weight of the jig. I have tried adding weight to the rear lines but mostly caught timber and such, and never really concentrated on how to add weight ot the rear lines to shorten the turn radius. It would be worth the effort just haven't gotten there yet. Like most of us, any idea is only gonna bounce around in the head for so long before giving in and spending the time to answer the inherent questions. I'll probably post about it one day soon. Hope this answered your Q Harold, plus I usually ramble.
Pretty much got it Skeet
Just as I was beginning to think the absolute best way is to set up all rods out the back. I bought some 2oz weights last year but have not used them yet. Gonna try it this summer probably up here at Clark's Hill. Probably run 8.5 and 12 footers out the front and 14, 16 footers out back to start. We'll see what happens. Thanks Skeet!
Couple Short questions Skeet - on your 3 way - are you using any length leader regarding the wgt or
wgt direct hook to 3-way.
One other question for all: Anyone ever employ the bottom bounce method with a weighted
coat hanger size wire about 1 long, attached to 3 way- main line - 1 segment, wire to second
and approx 2 ft leader - jig to third This puts you on bottom with jig running about foot -
being thin would go through grass - mudd etc with very little bottom flaring.
This principal worked great on rocky bottoms up North.
Another method that has worked well down here - bell wgt on bottom main line, jig with
1.5 ft leader about 1.5 ft above weight, 2nd jig about 2 ft above first jig. pushing at about .8 mph
Robert- kinda lost me when your said going to run 8.5 & 12's out front and long rods out back. What is thinking on this method ?? i would think running long rods out front to stay off sound of
trolling mtr - short ones out back for better control and spacing
Just trial and error Harold. I have some stiffer 8.5 trolling rods to use with heavier weight up front. Run em deep at an angle. I can shift this to the back or have the same setup in the back already. See which works best. Crank up speed. The long rods at the back are 45 and 90 degrees not straight out back of boat.
Harold, these are trolling weights with a split ring and duo lock, no leader direct to the three way. I use baitcaster reels so there isn't any line twist when the drag goes to work. When I trolled a small spoon I used a ball bearing swivel to deal with line twist. I also never found any greater return on leaders over 3 feet. Super clear water it may be an issue but not so far for me.
Here is a depth chart for pushing.....the faster you go the heavier your weight needs to be....you want to keep your line at a 45 degree angle. I use three oz. Weights and run 1.8 mph. Attachment 241255
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I use this method 100% of the time and have great success with it. All I use are 16' poles with 3/4oz weights on them plus what ever bait I have. The only negative I found with this method is if the water gets choppy, the rod tips seems to bounce more. I run from .8 to 1.2 mph. Something else I do is put a cork on the end of the rod for detecting bites works pretty good.
Attachment 241289
Here is my set up for Long-ling
Using 6# test mono, line being out 60 ft
This is my method for long-ling (pulling from rear of boat)
Using 6 lb test mono - line being out " 60 ft"
2 - 48 oz jigs - they will be running 3 ft down
2 -jigs 1- 32 & 1 -48 oz jigs will run 6 ft down
2 - jigs 32 th's will run 8 ft fown
2 - jigs 1 - 16th & 1 - 32th will run 10 ft down
Have worked this method for about 10 yrs -
I only use one style crank bait - 2 basic colors on - run them between 35 - 60 ft out..
run them mid - late August thru September
^^^^ what speed Harold? I run some of those combinations and dont pull that deep. Monroe is only 6'-7' on average and would be dragging bottom. But I usually pull at 1.3mph.
I was out fishing recently and started the day out pushing with no reel success. I Switched to pulling and caught nice fish to end the day. I'm just trying to figure out if I were using the push/pull method I would have made my decision a lot sooner...either way.?
Mike, sorry i forgot to add that little part of the story:
I based all my jig sets on 1.0 mph
I heard about this thread on your forum and I hope you don't mind a Georgia fisherman's two cents. My partner, Jim, and I have been push/pulling for over a year now with very good success. Jim is originally from Florida (Kissimmee Kowboy) and pushing is the way he has always fished. We both pushed for a couple years with one in front and one in the rear. In other words, we were both spider-rigged. About a year ago I started longlining and decided I liked that approach. So now when we are in Jim's boat he sits up front and pushes and I long line out of the back. When we are in my boat Jim sits up front and pushes and I long line out of the back. Jim also tends a couple of my pulling rods (16 & 12 footers) from rod holders in the front of the boat. Here is the set up:
Jim uses 8 rods, 6-14 foot rods and 2-12 footers rigged with 3/4 oz sinkers. I put 2-16 footers and 2-12 footers in the front rod holders facing 90 degrees to the side of the boat. I fish the remaining 6 rods all 8 footers out of the rear. I generally rig the 16 and 12 footers with double 1/16 oz jigs and curly tails. The rear rods are usually rigged with 1/16 oz jigs and at least 1/16 oz split shot. We usually troll about 1 mph that is why Jim uses 3/4 oz sinkers. Now as you know our lakes are different than yours and we have to use more weight to get down to the fish most of the year. Our set-up wasn't based on any strategy other than we can both fish the way we want to. If we both wanted to longline only there is no way we could fish up to 20 rods. Here are a couple of links from our trips last week and a picture of Jim in the front of my boat.
http://www.crappie.com/crappie/georgia/334518-longlining-oconee-85-degree-water/
http://www.crappie.com/crappie/georg...sday-6-1-16-a/
Who is manufacture on your "rod holders"?
EZ T Pole Perch out of Jeffersonville, Ga.Quote:
Originally Posted by fishin813
They have a website.
Will check it out...Thanks
Love this thread ,
Great information !
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