Trailer Wheel Bearings?

Okay, so I have a few questions about changing the wheel bearings on the boat trailer and thought maybe some folks on the board here could help me out.

I punctured the rubber cover on one of my wheel buddies and I'm getting grease thrown all over the place as a result.

How often do you replace the bearings?

If I do one side, should I do the other side as well?

I noticed there is a 1.72 and 1.92 cover for bearing buddies are there different sized axels and bearings as well? If so, how do I know which one I have/need?

How do you determine the size of bearing buddies you need?

Thanks for any help and suggestions guys.

If bearings aren't rusted or pitted you can reuse them. Just clean and repack. Replace seals. Use a micrometer or calipers to check your axle diameter and hub ID for bearing size.

Grease them every 6 or so times you go fishing and check them to see if they are getting hot or you will end up like me and change one out on the side of the interstate


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Other than what's already posted you can jack the trailer up on one side at a time and check the wheel for side to side 'play'. If excess play is found the wheel spins freely and doesn't make noise you can remove the cotter pin and tighten the axle nut just enough to get the hole lined up again for the cotter pin to go thru the castle nut. The wheel should spin freely or else it's too tight.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bob D

Okay, so I have a few questions about changing the wheel bearings on the boat trailer and thought maybe some folks on the board here could help me out.

I punctured the rubber cover on one of my wheel buddies and I'm getting grease thrown all over the place as a result.

How often do you replace the bearings?

If I do one side, should I do the other side as well?

I noticed there is a 1.72 and 1.92 cover for bearing buddies are there different sized axels and bearings as well? If so, how do I know which one I have/need?

How do you determine the size of bearing buddies you need?

Thanks for any help and suggestions guys.

---

Bob,
you probably know this, but if you type "wheel bearings" in the search box at the top right of screen it brings up all the post on that subject. Here is one I found that talks about identifying bearing size. I just went through all this research while prepping my boat for a 1500 mile round trip to Florida. No problems thank goodness.
Here is link: http://www.crappie.com/crappie/virgi...earings-2.html

This says Tracker wheel bearings but the numbering is universal on all bearings.

Also here is the link to where I got all my parts. Fast shipping and good prices. https://trailerparts.com/products/hu...ted-parts.html

Thanks guys!!! I actually think the bearings are okay and I have no free play in the wheel. I think its just a replacement of the bearing buddy that is required. I'm pretty religious about adding new grease to the wheels so I'm petty comfortable with their status.

Bill47, where do you find the hub ID?

I was speaking of the inside diameter of the hub body, either where the bearing cone is pressed in, or where your bearing buddy presses in.

I'm installing some new bearing buddies on my trailer, I was able to get the old ones out, but I can't get the new ones in. I checked the diameter of the new bearing buddies, they are the same as the old ones. Do I need to get a torch and heat up the race on the hub? The instructions say to use a wood block to beat them in and I have tried that, but it's not working and I don't want to brute strength it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Go to you tube and you can watch how some guys use the wood block to put them in.

yeah, if they're the same diameter they should go in. Clean up the mating surfaces good. May be a burr somewhere.

When I re-packed my bearings a couple months back, the
hardest part of the job was knocking in the new Bearing
Buddies. It takes patience and feel, not brute force.

It's really hard to start the BB perfectly straight. The BB
must be aligned to the hub perfectly then given a light tap
on the wood block. 9 times out of 10, that light tap will
knock in one side more than the other. So you must tap
the BB on the side to remove it and start over. You'll
repeat that process about 50 times until you get the
feel. But once it's started straight with that magic first
tap, you can easily knock the BB in until it seats fully.

In the end, it took me about an hour just to install my
new BBs.

Probably a dumb question, but how are you using the wood block? I place the block flush and square on the hub cover and hit it with a hammer. Just wondering if you might be hammering it in with the wood block. If so it is easy to get it started crooked. Once I have the block pressed against the hub and I am comfortable the alignment is good, I hit it a pretty good whack. Usually takes only 3 or 4 whacks to seat it. (I use a 2x4 about 18" long so my hand holding the block is out of danger.)

But u some sealed lubed hubs u want regret it

I carry an extra hub all fixed up. In case one goes out on the highway.
LittleJohn