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I put my tilt trim unit in the shop to have it reworked and ordered a new electric motor. I got the unit back and bolted the new motor on and filled with fluid and hooked to leads to bleed air. The cylinder opens and closes great. BUT it will not hold pressure. I can close the cylinder with my hands if I push real hard. What am I missing or what did the hydraulic shop miss?
Sorry forgot this 89 Johnson 50 Hp
Thanks
Is the manual control valve fully closed?
Can you explain that. I don't know a lot about the unit? There is a smaller flat head screw on the resovoir side that I think holds the valve is this what your talking about?Quote:
Originally Posted by sliderman
The manual control valve will in fact be a flat head. It's purpose is to allow for the manual tilting of the motor in the event that there is a problem with the unit. It must be fully seated (tightened) before the hydraulics will hold pressure. If you are able to push the ram down by hand, my guess is that the valve is open.
(No more than simply tight is required. They are not known to back off or go loose.)
Took it back to the shop. They matched the seals the best they could but they think it is bypassing. So I ordered them a OMC repair kit. For as much as it cost for them to do it wrong. I am scared to know how much it cost to do it right plus the $82 kit. Hopefully labor was paid for the first time.
if they charge you for doing it right the second time, I'd find a new shop and then take them to small claims court
The way my luck is right now. The court date would be 72 overcast and no wind and the fish bite is hot. I think their intentions are good.
cost for the 2nd repair was 0$. I got it home filled it up bled it and filled it up several times. Opened the cylinder and I could still push the cylinder down with my hands. What am I missing? I did open the manual release all the way and closed it back
What do you mean when you say you opened the cylinder?
If the cylinder springs back when you push down on it, it's air in the system. If it pushes down with no spring back action, it's most likely an issue with the check valves.
In order to replace the seals and wiper on the trim cylinder, the ram has to be disassembled. Which requires the removal of several small springs and check valves. If they were not reassembled correctly, the hydraulic fluid will pass through the check valves to the other side of the system. A failed o-ring on the manual control valve will also allow fluid to pass from one side to the other. The shop that did the repair should have tested their work.
told it go up or in other words extended the cylinder
I took it to the shop that does our hydraulics at work. They do not have the relays to test the unit. The things that they deal with have actual pumps. Will have to double check but I do not remember any spring back from air but that springy feeling makes sense. I can hear a hissing sound tho. By the amount of fluid it took I have to guess that there is fluid past the cylinder orings. Can you explain how to change the manual release o ring. I backed that screw out at some point I think I saw the cylinder move down on its own but the screw only backed out so far then stopped. I did have our mechanic clean the filter and poppets. One other funny thing the hydraulic place said they will not work on the motor side BUT when I got it back the 2nd time the motor housing was rotated 90 degrees by looking at where the wiring harness comes out of the motor
I know we keep asking a bunch of questions but it's hard trying to diagnose without putting hands on. When you extended it was it hooked to motor? Remember you have 2 stages to the system, first from all the way down up just a little is trim and then it cycles over to tilt. Try hooking to motor and trim all the way down then trim up just about where you would run it down the lake. Then put a little pressure on lower unit and see if it still pushes down.
It wont even attempt to pick the engine up. But I am headed now to try it again. It could only push its own weight of the cylinder so to speak. I feel encouraged when Y'all ask questions that a fix is coming. The frustrating thing is the tilt/trim was working it was just leaking and I got tired of refilling. and I replaced the motor cause the brushes were sticking and wanted a semi fail proof unit. Thanks for the help so far.
Here you go. I would print this out Diagram and parts list. Take everything back to them and have them double check everything. Like Sliderman said something is missing or not put together right. It's a pretty simple system if you understand hydraulics.
1989 E50BELCEC Evinrude POWER TILT & TRIM Diagram and Parts
i tried to raise it starting from all the way down and it could not raise the engine.
You may be in a position now where only a tech that has worked on many of that system could pull it down and recognize what's out of place or not right. For future reference, I have found that the top seal and wiper are the only items that fail and leak. Most likely due to their exposure to grit and the elements. Removal and disassembly of the ram is all that is required to stop the leak and give it new life. If the hydraulic shop stripped the valve body down, the problem could be anywhere in the system.
what if the spring was missing on the manual release valve I took it apart and was worried that the spring would fly across the room but I never saw it, Will the cylinder open and close with out the spring. but not maintain pressure.
Can you look at that diagram and tell me which part is the bleed valve since it does not say in description. Is it the one that's held in place with a snap ring?
yes it has a snap ring. 335128 is the piece with the o-ring 335157 is the spring 33518 is the needle
Ok, you need to order that spring because they holds pressure on the needle to keep it from leaking down. I would also get the 335158 just to be on the safe side. And if your anything like me I would order 2 of the springs. Hopefully they can get those for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by catchNgrease
found the spring.
:HandsClapping:HandsClapping:HandsClapping:HandsCl appingQuote:
Originally Posted by catchNgrease
Cray I sent you a PM.
Answered, would add this. Install that spring now so if they go in there they know how it goes back together.Quote:
Originally Posted by catchNgrease
After further investigation it has been determined that part 0433814 piston assembly is the culprit. That one of the 6 port hole thingies is incomplete. It deffinetely was complete when I handed it to them. I told them to weld the hole up. Was that a mistake. What can happen? They offered to replace at no expense to me. But that is crazy.
I went back and looked at some more after sending PM. Think I would give it a shot before replacing at that cost. At the very worst it would go up a little faster and down a little slower but should stop it from leaking down. And you might not see any difference at all in the up and down.
The 6 hole system in the piston contains the check valves I referenced earlier. All but one should be oriented up. And a single one down. They are part of the ''break away and return" function needed when you hit a stump or other hard object. If you close the single one down, it will have to be disassembled if you ever hit something. If you weld up one of the up circuits, the motor will not 'pop up' as fast as it should in the event you hit something. I would tell them to fix it right. It's not that complicated a system.
I got the tilt/trim back with the one of the six holes welded. It will not pick the motor up. It will hold the motor if it is installed open and it will let the motor down and hold when the button is released. When attempting to pick the motor up there is creak or a popping sound. Can something be out of line the. Also the black grommets are not on the tilt system anymore. cracked and busted. Does that cause a problem.
Those grommets are bro ably bushings it needs to pivot on. It's in a bind with that pressure on it trying to push it up.
I was hoping you would say that.The parts list does call it bushings. I prefer to call to order and they will be ordered tomorrow.
Bushings were installed and and the cylinder acted froze. But it did unfreeze and it now it works. Thanks to all of you guys that listened to me whine and especially all of yall's help. NOW pardon me while I go pull a fish from shallow water that my area is good for.