Does any one know of a variable speed control add on for a 43# 5 speed motorguide trolling motor or a way to build a controller. The lowest speed setting moves my boat .9 mph by gps.
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Does any one know of a variable speed control add on for a 43# 5 speed motorguide trolling motor or a way to build a controller. The lowest speed setting moves my boat .9 mph by gps.
Good question. Hope someone has an answer cause I have the same problem. The lowest speed on the dial is just not slow enough at times.
I guess I need to get in the motor speed control business. Give me a couple of days to look at speed control resources. You have a few options here. Do you know how to solder? 12v or 24v or 36v or 48v? How much do you want to sacrifice (money)?
Yes, I can solder. The system I have is 12v. Did not want to spend alot of money If I can build the electronics my self. I have not tested to amp draw on it yet to see if a off the shelf restate will work. If someone else has did the R&D work and has a drawing and parts list. Could you please send it to me.
Give me a couple of days. I will design you one that can handle about 40 to 50 amps. That should do it. Prob 20 to 30 dollars in parts. I ain't got too much to do at the present.Quote:
Originally Posted by chipmaker
This may be a stupid ideal, but why couldn't you take a 120v dimmer switch (dial type) and hook the wires to it?
I could also use a speed control if someone has an extra or circuit diagram. Funny how we think alike when we get close to fishing season. I just had my motor apart over the weekend and the motor itself works but the control board doesnt. Mine is hand control w/ no reverse. Thanks, Rob
PS I can solder also, my problem when looking at PWM and 555 circuits was I could not find anything for 30 amps, which is what the relays are in my present non working head.
The 120 V will not work but a Mack truck headlight dimmer will! We did it on a Minnkota 40 lb. thrust trolling motor - gets a little hot to touch but will definitely slow you down. The neat thing is that you have five different speeds that are variable with this switch. Cannot believe anyone else hasn't thought of this! Still works to this day! Check at NAPA
There was some one in the swap met section that was trying to sell a like new maximizer that will work.Quote:
Originally Posted by chipmaker
I found one that looks promising:
http://sound.westhost.com/appnotes/an009.htm
Chipmaker,
You need to contact the folks at www.vexilar.com. They used to make an item called a "Moto-Max". This is basically a "pulse width modulator" that'll slow the motor speed with out effecting the amperage. That's what you want. Do not use any type of rheostat. It'll cause the amperage to increase and burn up the motor. trust me, I know!
The one I bought from them back in 2004 was $127.00 plus shipping. Even though its not listed on their site any more, you may be able to call or shoot them and e-mail for more information.
D
For you guys running 12 volt motors the maximizer by minn kota is the way to go. I have found three of these on e-bay in the last couple of months. These units are not made any more but there are still units out there. Vexilar does not make the moto-max any more. Had one of these built by Mississippi trolling motor repair but it was expensive 275.00. If you can run across one on ebay most of the time they bring between 80 - 100 dollars. On ebay type in trolling motor and also check under minnkota header as I have found them both places. I also believe tom will come up with you guys a device if you give him time.
There is a maximizer on ebay right now. Hight bid at 9 a.m. was 81.04 Auction ends at around 5 p.m. today. Go to ebay Type in trolling motor and then go to minnkota header and you will see unit. These units are for 12 volt only.
Yep, Dwight is right.
Vexilar no longer sells the moto-max. I just talked with a salesman at Vexilar and he stated they no longer sell the item since all the T/M manufacturers started adding the digital technology to their motors.
He said the Moto-Max was a transitional item and the demand went away so they discontinued it. That sucks for those of use who can't afford a 500-900 dollar trolling motor just to get variable speed.
If you can't get your hands on a Maximizer,I guess you could go "old school" and use a drift sock or 5 gallon bucket pulled behind the boat to slow you down.
D
Hey ya go. 12 volts @ 60 amps (at 25 degrees C. and proper heat sinks).
Red and Black heavy lines indicate heavy current paths. Adjust wire size for the amount of current to be drawn by trolling motor (max). If you can build circuits, this will work fine. If you need a 24 volt circuit, I can modify this one to use 24v. Or both.
Wired one up today. It has good linear response over the potentiometer range.
Wire and test before installing a circuit like this. Caution. This is high current. You can catch things on fire. Not for the novice. I ain't responsible for your wiring.
Thank you. I feel the wheels in motion.
Hey Tom, what can you tell me about incorporating I guess an H bridge or switch for adding reverse?
Thanks for the curcuit I am going to grab some components for the weekend.
Wattage of the resistors?
I would not use an H-Bridge for this app. Here is a circuit that reverses using relays. Same thing elec wheelchairs do, but dont try this circuit on a wheel chair. Might do a wheelstand and dump the driver. No damping is provided in this circuit.Quote:
Originally Posted by robbor
If the circuit is blurred, open the file with fax viewer or paint. File got to big for bmp extension post here.
With this circuit, the motor is on or off and does not coast (free wheel) when the power switch is released. If you want it to coast, I will add a coasting relay. No prob to add it. I am just trying to keep cost down. Wheel chairs have coast relays.
As you see, the more stuff you want it to do, the more parts I have to add. I can keep adding features.
I am also looking for an easy out for the speed control problem. I have a motorguide 46# thrust. I talked to a moterguide repair guy, he suggested the easiest and least expencive way out was to install a 4 blade weedless prop. The rpm,s stay the same but that prop moves less water therefore slowing you down.
here is the how it looks before all the jumper wires are connected and the 555 timer chip is installed. and also the 470 uf cap. was not installed yet.
Attachment 9009
Attachment 9010two other pics
I am assuming that you are using the box for the heat sinks. The IRF's needs good heatsinks.
What does one of these sell for and will it fit any type trolling motor?
yes this is one big heat sink. I have run my trolling motor on high pulling 22 amps in a trashcan full of water for two hours and it remain very cool.
Where did you find that heat sink? Is the circuit motor speed linear?Quote:
Originally Posted by chipmaker
yes it is linear. Can wait until next week to go fishing and give it a good test. It was a heat sink used in some old equiptment found in a scrap metal bin at work. Just removed the old circuit board and bolted in my circuit board. After next week field test I will open it back up and seal everything to keep water out. I have seen on some circuit boards at work that have a clear gel like coating that i would like to put on the circuit board. Does anyone have a suggestion on what it is?
Bell South aka ATT uses this stuff in phone jacks.Quote:
Originally Posted by chipmaker
I use a spray I think is called Conformal Coat. It is for waterproofing pcb's. I will look at the can tomorrow and post what the name is if you cant come up with anything. That is if I remember.
BY the way, good job and craftsmanship.
What would be a good source for the IRFZ48s and MBR1650? No one around here seems to stock these, got the rest. --shu
http://www.electronicsic.com/sem-irf.htmQuote:
Originally Posted by shuorc
http://www.mouser.com/search/Product...key512-MBR1650
Thanks for the links, now maybe i can get on with the building.--shu
Still can't locate a small supplier of MBR1650, from Mouser i'd have to get 450 items. Would like to build controller.--shu
http://www.futurlec.com This company has a SB1650 Schottky Barrier Diode which is the same just a different company for the mbr1650. You can order everything from them for around $8 plus shipping. I think they carry heat sink and some boxes. I ordered from them and received the parts in about 7 days. They have no min. order.
Thanks for the info and the link parts are ordered and so easy after the run around i've got from the other ten vendors it was a pleasure to order from Futurlec.
thanks again am looking forward to the build and use--slabs look out---shu
One other thought if any one needs a big heat sink. You maybe able to check out a car audio shop for a car stereo amp that is no repairable. These things are one big heat sink make out off aluminum that can be cut down in size and fab. a cover to fit.
I have this problem and I'm looking for an easy solution. It just so happens that I've gone back to school and I'm currently taking electronics at the local tech school but I'm only in my first semester and I can't even read Cane Pole's schematic. Anybody got anymore simple ideas besides the bucket/windsock idea?
Finally got all the parts. Will build, test and let you know how mine works, one worry i have is the heat sinks i bought are not the large ones like on the radios pa so wont load it too hard and check for heat.--shu
Cane Pole
Some things take longer than others, got back to the speed control(it's fishin time) but do not have the info for the IRfZ48Ns, believe they wire source, drain, gate but can't seem to find a data sheet on the internet, mounted on the heat sink facing them how are they layed out???
Yhanks for your help--shu
FOUND IT was looking for 1rfz48n when in fact they are IRFZ48N, should be in good shape--shu
I just joined chasing down converting 5 speed tm to variable. At your post 1/30/07 I can't seem to find the info for the 12v 60 amp diagram. Help