How tight does the hub nut need to be? What's the proper way to adjust it?
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How tight does the hub nut need to be? What's the proper way to adjust it?
Easiest way is use a pair of channel locks, if you don't have a torque wrench and socket. Hope this makes sense. Tighten nut while spinng the wheel ( reason for this is to insure the seal gets seated properly ) tighten pretty snug but don't have to over do it. Then back off one flat. That is one of the flat sides on the nut that a wrench or socket would fit on. Pick a flat and back up until the next one is in the same position. Try to insert cotter pin, if necessary back nut up just until the cotter pin goes in and through the axle. Never leave a bearing nut tight. Tapper roller bearings should have somewhere from 8 to 12 thousands end play. If this makes no sense ask away.
I want to purchase and store a complete spare hub assembly on my boat.... How do I identify the correct size of a new replacement hub without disassembling the trailer wheel and hub to measure the spindle diameter ?
When tightening the spindle nut, you may need to over tighten it first in order to seat the bearings, then back it off to the proper setting as Cray described. Be sure to drive it a couple of miles and then check for play again.
Hey Cray 0.008 to 0.012 ? I use a dial indicator and try to get between 0.001 to 0.002. The wheel still has a small amount of wiggle.
Wilbur, how many other guys beside you and I have the tools to do that?:biggrin we found over the years that seating the bearing, then backing the nut up one flat would give us the best setting for overall bearing life. We worked with Timpken and the guys from CR seal company for a couple of years checking different ways to do it. Found trying to use the indicator would not work out with the average mechanic. If you it down to .001 to .002 and they don't get hot your doing really good. In my mind that is just a little snug for tapper roller bearings. Just out of curiosity you ever go back and recheck the clearance after you ran it down the road under a load?
I just did that for mine. If you can read the number on the front bearing you should be able to determine the axle size. Need to be sure if it is a tapered or straight shaft though. The tapered ones have different front and rear diameters. I bought 2 hubs from Trailerparts.com for not much more than buying all the parts to redo the existing ones. Course I discovered that after I bought all the parts.
Hello: Always better to have it too loose than too tight. I do mine just like cray says. Good Luck. O - R
even if it has a smidgen of slack ? mine was so close to take the slack totally out you could not get the cotter pin in . so went to thinner pin and that small amount took all slack out .the tire spins free with no problems . I prefer the ones with a washer with bend down tabs over the one pin fits most . lol
Hello: I would back it off one notch. Even if it has a very small amount of slack. When the bearings warm up and expand the bearings will get hotter and hotter causing bearing failure. If you have an electronic temperature gun you could check the temps of the hubs and keep an eye out for trouble. Just my opinion. Maybe others will chime in also. Good Luck. O - R
How warm or hot do they feel after a ten mile run coach ? That will tell you if they are too tight or not. And I would never go to smaller key or locking device for a spindle nut.
Ran tippah lake and back a couple of times at 55-60 mph . no problems . not worm to the touch .About 35 miles one way .
news flash ! there should be a washer between the bearings and the castle nut ! my trailer did not have one on either side . Works very good now . .
Yes. .....and its a tongue washer......has a tongue to go in slot or groove in the spindle to keep it from turning.
went to trailer place and was told that I needed washer . I went to tractor supply and got the kit which included a castle nut, washer, and pin/key . the washer seems to be standard size but thicker . Works good with no slack any where .
Hey neither one of my hubs had washers between castle nut and bearings. If I even had a washer their would not be enough room to put the washer and then castle nut on to screw down to the hole to put cotter pin in. Should I be concerned?
mine has a washer, but no tang on it and no notch in the spindle for the tang if it had one.. always been that way, it's an '89 Hustler trailer.
If I had no play in the wheel once mounted, it would not be an issue . I was told yesterday that some now do not have a washer . I would call mfg. of trailer with the trailer numbers ,they can tell you . When I told him the age of my trailer he said it should have the washer . mine does not have the tongue washer because it has no slot in the spindle .Curious ,how old is your trailer ?
http://www.timken.com/EN-US/solution...gs_English.pdf
Here is the proper way straight from bearing manufacturer. Read carefully because it covers several scenarios about washers, retainers and nuts that can be found on different axles. But the torque setting and slack in bearing is the same in every instance.
That's the way I always did it, I feel better seeing it in print.