Hi, I was looking for some 1/124 oz. jig heads with around a #10 hook. A sickle hook would be even better if it can be had. If any of you can or know of someone who can make these I would appreciate the information.
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Hi, I was looking for some 1/124 oz. jig heads with around a #10 hook. A sickle hook would be even better if it can be had. If any of you can or know of someone who can make these I would appreciate the information.
Holy cow thats small but u can go to a fly fishing shop or online store and im sure get down that small i just started tying bream flys and i dont know what size they are but im sure they are in that range
i have 1/100 mold i think the hooks are 12s.you could try slotted tungsten beads on sz 10 sickles.
You could try adding a bead to the hook to get that weight, or wrap the head of the hook with some wire. Beads are sold anywhere fly tying stuff is sold, you just slip it on the hook. I made a bunch of bream jigs using this, so they sink nice and slow.
Yes a small amount of lead wire could be used as your weight, but to find a 1/124 oz head is going to be hard and for sure with a Sickle hook. Keep in mind even a 1/80 mold only really pours a 1/64 Oz in real weight and that is a tiny piece of lead. As some have mentioned there are beads like the slotted tungsten beads and somewhere there is a weight chart of each as to it's weight and I may even have one some place. I will look.
Skip
I am in the fly fishing business. 1/64 is about as small as I can get. We use several styles including shad darts for shad on the fly rods. I too would suggest a bead on the hook. Even a heavy wire hook adds some weight for a quicker sink rate if that is what you are looking for.
Thanks everyone. I saw some instructions for tying a cap spider fly for bream fishing and his recommendation was a 1/124 oz jig. I am sure I will try the beads and the lead wire.
Sky Pilot one thing to keep in mind, a 5/32 painted Tungsten Bead is .02 Oz or close to 1/48. Oh and a small amount of lead wire wrapped around maybe 1/4" of hook shank. With the light weight your looking for something that falls slow and here it is!
Also if your looking for a bream fly/jig, try the fly. Get a low end fly rod and reel and get after them with a Bream Killer. Here are some I did, but keep in mind the pattern calls for White legs and I just decided to get a little extra could help with a little different color.
You can also do it 2 ways, one with the tail and one without.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...psvljzdtxz.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...pse4a6e1f3.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...psce41276d.jpg
I would go with the lead weight wire. I get a few really small ones tied up every year and that is what he uses. I'd tie my own but I just can't see em that small!
I went through this same dilemma a few months ago. Finding someone to pour will be tough. I did find the 1/124 at Backwoods in Fort Worth though. Also like was mentioned, you can try bead/wire too. I also had a boat load of 1/80 poured. I figured that was close enough.
thanks for the link DBD.what size hooks are those
Attachment 228639here are some examples,the gold hooks on the left are 1/100 lead heads on sz 12 aberdeen jig hooks.top right is a 1/8 dia slotted tung bead on a sz 12 eagle claw 570.bottom right is same tung bead on a 60 degree barbless jig hook.the tung beads are heavier by at least half.but these are slotted so lighter than a solid bead would be.
thanks DBD
i purchased some tungsten wire.hard and brittle.you have to lash it to a hook as impossible to wind.very hard to cut.i know guys who mix tungsten powder with epoxy to get extra weight on flies. a good source for lead tape and tungsten powder is golf club shop.used for weighting clubs and much cheaper than buying as a fly tying item
thanks skip,use a lot of lead wire but for getting small tungsten makes sense as you can get heavier with less material.the tungsten wire was something i just tried.results were not good as it is very hard to work with.i know fly tyers who use the powder with epoxy to get extra weight on epoxy head flies,especially where lead is banned.we all know that day is coming pretty much everywhere unfortunately.
I have tied several flies with the lead wire and they seem to work well. Skip, those bream killers look great. I have a made a few of them and have caught several fish with some similar to yours. I have fly fished for bream for about 40 years and I am still learning that I am a novice. Having never had any help, I did not even know till just a few years ago about matching fly rods with the right line. I came across an article and video of Michael Verduin tying a cap spider fly. I thought it sounded good and he recommended the 1/124 oz. jig as having just the right sink rate to get those big ones. I am thinking about using some scales that I have to see how much lead wire with a #10 hook is needed to equal that weight. Thanks for all the replies. I did find some for sale at Cabelas and Feather Craft. Just thought I would check on here before ordering from them.
Sink rate is what this little bream killer is about, cast it out and let it sink until they can't stand it any long and hit!
Enjoy,
Skip
This truly saddened me. If you have other questions, there's lots of good info here:
http://www.crappie.com/crappie/fly-fishing/
I'm thinking that if wrapping the wire isn't light enough that a cut section of lead wire super glued to the shank before tying would give the needed weight in a more critical graduation in the weight. Just my two cents, no practical application. Yet. I'm a rookie rod flogger myself.
A friend of mine came over and had some 1/100 oz. jigs on a #10 hook and we tied some of the cap spider jigs with them. I had some 1/80 oz. jigs with sickle hooks that I had got from Grousefly and trimmed some of the lead of and tied a few on them also. The scales I had could not weigh that light of weight so I was just guessing on that part.
DBD -Yeah it's actually pretty pathetic!! You'd think the State where Orvis started and one of the most well known trout streams the Battenkill - you would be surprised at the number of folks that learn on their own!! Some of the shops here charge an arm and a leg for lessons, even the shop that used to have free fly tying lessons (I knew how to tie jigs but not flies) and now those same lessons I took for free are $100.00 for 3 class's a total of 6 hours.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky Pilot View Post
I have fly fished for bream for about 40 years and I am still learning that I am a novice. Having never had any help, I did not even know till just a few years ago about matching fly rods with the right line.
The free lessons were what drew folks back to the shop once they knew how to tie, and materials aren't too bad. The fishing club at my wife's school is gone now too.
I have worked in the fly fishing industry for over 35 years and can say yes things have changed. I worked at a Orvis shop for many years until it went under. It is re opening under new ownership so many are happy to have a place to buy there supplies. Reason for charging for some of those free bees is the cost of doing business. I know because I have taught flyfishing and own my own business for about 20 years. Between the big box stores and online sales the shops have and will continue to fall by the way side. Not to argue on the cost of education but as was stated about fly line matching the rod,How much further would you be and how much more fun and money you could have saved by starting with some good flyfishing education?
Addicted, I truly sympathise with the dilemma of the small fly shop. I love the places and have visited some in several states as I traveled with my job just to visit and let the owner know folks still notice. My purchases didn't amount to much and I know every little bit helps. I cut my teeth with the fly rod with popper bugs for panfish here in FL. I don't have the gear anymore but I would be embarrassed to bring it out around anyone that knows anything about fly fishing. Rod heavy as a log, the cheapest reel and a level line with a 10 lb test mono leader. Didn't I have a time. Standing in a canoe too. Would have been nice to have had better gear and a shorter learning curve but the fun still lives in my memories and I wouldn't trade it for anything. I still use Dad's 7wt Browning Silaflex in 8'. It probably weighs twice what a newer rod would. Thanks for being the teacher and for helping to keep the art alive......Skeet.
Thank you for the kind words Skeetbum. You can get what you want out of fly fishing. Some really want to be a fisherman and some just want to act like one. There are alot of really nice guys that know what they are doing and share there expertise but there is the other side of the coin also. It should be about having fun.
The shop I worked at, up to 2 years ago had a beginner fly fishing seminar for free through the Orvis rep. They have charge for there classes Orvis schools " Learn to Flyfish" in Manchester for at least 40 years that I can remember. I charge for my classes but also do some free bees or a very small charge that the local sportsman club ,conservation organization receive. I have not keep up with there policies for the last year but assume they (Orvis) are the same as in the past.
Before I get hammered on Orvis - they are NOT the shop I was talking about that's charging for tying lessons now.
My son and I had just got back to Kelly's Slab on Crooked Creek from a day of fishing. Before we could load the kayaks we met a man from North Georgia that had come to teach a masters fly fishing program at Mountain Home. He had come down to this river to cast for some smallmouth fish, but he spent at least the next two hours helping us with our casting and probably would have stayed for eight hours if we did not have to leave for the next river. It is people like that, that give fishermen a great name.
I asked my son and neither of us can remember the name. He could do things with a fly rod I never thought possible.