To make it easier to stow my spider rods I have added a small glass bead and swivel about 3' up from my jig. Has anyone found specs to be overly shy about eating and do you think I should limit the use of swivels?
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To make it easier to stow my spider rods I have added a small glass bead and swivel about 3' up from my jig. Has anyone found specs to be overly shy about eating and do you think I should limit the use of swivels?
I run 2 hook spider rig's I tie with 2 swivels that don't seem to slow them down.
Good to hear...just wondering since my bite has been a bit slow
My general impression is that crappie aren't really that particular. Maybe if you fish in very clear water they might have an issue....
I make my rigs simple. The main line on the reel is Power Pro 8/30 with a snap swivel. The rig starts with a loop that will go on the snap. The first hook/jig is about 6 to 12" below the loop. An egg sinker is 6 to 12" below the the hook. The bottom hook/jig is 6 to 12" below the sinker.
I use duo lock snaps tied to the main line ... with a plastic bead & whatever weight barrel sinker I need on the main line, above the snap. I have jigheads tied on lighter pound test leaders, with a loop knot at one end ... so I can quickly change out rigs. The jig leaders are approx 12-18" long.
I've caught fish on this rigging, so I don't think the snap (or a swivel) that is that far away from the jig is going to be a negative factor in your setup.
In fact, the member that introduced me to Spider Rig fishing uses the same setup as mine, but uses the cheap (gold colored) swivel snaps. They're probably Eagle Claw brand, and look like this:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31b3kPk%2BV9L.jpg
... cp :kewl
You use a weight above the jig? I have used one on the bottom when I used minnows but haven't used them any other way.
Wow, I'm slacking. I have only been using one jig.
Most of us around here tie some version of a Capps and Coleman 2 hook rig using straight minnows or jigs tipped with minnow. You can Google it. Take a look and go from there or just tie a real simple one. Take your main line pull out about 2 ft and tie a loop knot, slide on a 1/2 oz egg sinker and position it about 16-18 in below loop knot, pass tag end through egg sinker about 4 times and pull tight. Then go down about 8 in and tie on jig or hook. Then you will see what it looks like and is very fishable. Then you can modify it in several ways if you wish. I tie mine by taking spool of line and #10 swivel, pass tag end through swivel and tie a clinch knot ( not the improved clinch) then trim tag end to 6 in and tie on a Duolock snap. Then I measure off 18 in of line from the spool and cut that off, run it through 1/2 oz weight then small bead, then tie tag end to another swivel. From that swivel I tie another piece 8 in long and tie on another Duolock snap. That way I don't have to swap entire rig,just change hooks or jigs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jjsmarlin
Yes, I do. I'm not so much "spider rigging" as I am "pushing jigs". I consider spider rigging as a slower technique, say from 0.1 to 0.4mph ... and "pushing" as moving 0.5mph or faster.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jjsmarlin
I have a selection of barrel sinkers : 1/8oz - 1/2oz - 3/4oz - 1.5oz .... with which I can use to keep my jigs down to whatever depth I need them, running at whatever speed I need to move to get the bites, and/or keep my lines at about a 45deg angle so that I can instantly gauge how deep my jigs are running.
If the lines are at a 45deg angle, then every 10ft of line out equals 6ft of depth of the barrel sinker ... and the jig is trailing slightly below that depth. My rod tips are usually less than 1ft above the surface of the water, so the 12-18" leader makes up for the difference when calculating the running depth of the jig. I figure it that way because the line between the rod tip and water is not taken into account in the 45deg line angle / length of line out x 0.6 = depth of jig equation. It's not exact, but it's close enough to keep me in the strike zone range without using line counter reels or color metered line.
Weight above, weight below, weight in between .... it's all relative to how you "like" your setups to be, or are accustomed to using, been taught to use, or have the most confidence in using. I like using the weight on the main line, above the jig, so that if I hang up and have to break off ... then the jig is all I'll lose. I'm using heavy braid as a main line & 6lb test mono for the jig leaders. The plastic beads I use have holes big enough to slip over/around the main line knot that's tied to the clip, so that the bouncing/spinning of the barrel weights do not compromise the knot. That "might" be a bit of overkill :dono, but I'm not taking any chances. :)
I've never really gotten into using the KY Rig or "drop shot" rigging, even when using minnows ... and never bothered to use 2 hooks or jigs on one line ... so I've always had my weight above the jig or hook. And since I'm relatively new to the long pole "spider rigging/pushing" style of fishing, I've basically stayed with the same setup that I've successfully used for decades.
... cp :kewl
Wow, good info. Thanks to all. Now I need to quit working and go fishing today,