Bearing check

On the last trip I made I made my customary check of the hubs before I launch, I noticed the left one was warm to touch which wasn't bad but the right one was cold. OH,OH. This need further investigation. Well today with nothing better to do after eating all those ribs, beans, and tator salad, I decided to pull that hub.

Well it was well greased and no water inside, so far so good. Knocked out the inner bearing and seal and then washed the two bearings. Once I got most of the grease off I could see that the races were discolored. OK, a sign of overheating. I knocked out the races and got the new ones out of the tool box. Well what do you know, outer was right but the inner was wrong. Now I bought these 8 years ago when the boat was new and never had to used them. A good thing I found out that one wasn't right before I left the yard.

I measured all the sizes and took the old bearing with me to the parts store. They got out the ones that was suppose to be the ones, but the outer bearing wasn't right. The ID was too small to fit over the axle. After a couple of tries she was telling us that those were the only ones she had, when my son who was with me and had done parts work for years, asked her if she had another one with the same number as the one that didn't fit. She did and brought it to the front and It fit. The other by the same number was in the wrong box. Thank God for smart sons, who would've thought. Same problem with the seal but we finally got the right one. Good thing I had my calipers from my machining days.

Brought everything home, packed the bearing, installed them, put on the bearing buddy and greased them good. I then put on the dust cap, aired up the tire and put it on. Now it's ready to go.

Tomorrow or the next day I will pull the other one just to be safe as I have bought spares if I need them. If not they will go into the tool box until needed. At least this time I know I have the right ones.

I may be pulling my boat to D'Arbonne and I want it right before I leave. I remember Shadow have a problem a few years back and I never want to face that if I don't have to.
"gene"

I carry a complete new hub with bearings races and seals installed and packed with grease in my truck.......just makes me feel better on the road knowing I have that....also carry two sets of inner and outer bearings and races plus seals, grease and tools to install.

An ounce of prevention....saves your butt from being stuck on the side of the road at night........that's a good save PPG.......

​I'm glad you posted this, Gene. If the hub had felt cold to me I would have never guessed that there was a problem.

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Originally Posted by RMGeorge

​I'm glad you posted this, Gene. If the hub had felt cold to me I would have never guessed that there was a problem.

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X2!

Yea, I remember that problem well! If it wouldn't have been for Byrophrite (Ray) I would have had a real problem! Thank God he knew a business man in that area!

Good reminder PPG. I try to go thru my bearings once a year. Reading your race will tell you the condition of your bearings.

Gene, I had the same thing happen a week ago with a part for my car. I ordered a left vent assembly for my car(I busted the original trying to fix a vent louver) and the one that was in the sealed package was for the right side, even though the part number said it was for left. Sent it back to dealer and got another one and it was also incorrect. Whoever packed that lot of parts must have partied the night before. Took 3 times before I got the correct one.

Well this morning with nothing better to do I revisited my trailer bearings. As posted above I changed out both bearing and the seal on the left side and left the right side for later. Like most times when you plan to get back to something there are always a thousand other things to do.

I removed my tire and then the hub assembly. Took everything over to the wash basin and cleaned up the bearings and the races. I saw no signs of problems with the bearings but when I looked over the races, I found that the inner race had some water corrosion stains on it. So I knocked out both races, washed out the hub, installed new races, packed the new bearings, installed the seal and reassembled back on trailer. Now I have new bearings and new tires on the trailer and I'm ready to go.
One note, to anyone who does his own like I did, remember you need to pack the bearings not just apply grease to the outside of the bearing. Grease has to be forced between the rollers and the cage that holds the roller in place. It's a messy job but simple. Put some grease into the palm of your hand and with the other drag the bearing across the grease forcing it into the bearing until it come out the top side. Here is a "you tube video" showing how to do it. I don't know what he is referring to by overpacking a bearing especially on a boat trailer. On an auto too much grease can cause problems.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhL1uAp_WCw

Picture of my inner race showing the corrosion stains cause by water. This is how it starts out and from here can rapidly get very bad.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...DE23F4C159.jpg

Hey CDC Folks,

PPG did as instructed, he read the bearing race. He will lose points on his bearing packing. There is a much better way.

This the packer I use

List: Bearing Packers | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Keeps the grease clean and I can push the old grease out and see the new come in. Less than $20 on amazon/ebay.

What does a "cold hub" mean after you've traveled a bit while the other hug is warm from being towed/

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Originally Posted by jimp

What does a "cold hub" mean after you've traveled a bit while the other hug is warm from being towed/

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X2! Was wondering the same thing myself. Not doubting, just trying to lean.

Well I had trailered the boat about 10 miles. More than enough time for the temps to normalize. The one I said was cold was at room temp or as this was outside I guess it was outside temp. Which means when I touched it it wasn't hotter or colder than my hand. On the other hand the one that was warm wasn't to hot to touch, as that would have been very bad, but rather it was warm to my touch. Like someone running a low grade fever.

Now the one I replaced a week or so back was the warm one. It had a very small piece of steel on the race that was being rolled over by each bearing roller on each revolution. That piece of steel was being pounded into the race and possibly chipping away at the rollers. What ever, it made it warm to the touch.

The one I replaced today was the cold one or the one that felt room temp. The corrosion I showed the picture of was not bad enough to cause the bearing to overheat, It was mostly stains cause by water sitting on the race. Running it like that it wouldn't be too long or too many miles before it started getting warm also. At what point would it give way. I'm not willing to find out.

By the way JR can I have a point or two back for being frugal.
"gene"

A hub that is room temp is a good thing then but it still never hurts to check the parts to be sure. Good catch, I went thru basically the same thing on a trailer I recently purchased but the hubs were just warm to the touch. I went ahead and pulled the bearings and found similar marks along with some scorching marks as well, so all new parts for me as well.

No points back PPG. As you know money is no object when it comes to fishing

Jimp, You are perfectly correct. Once all the parts are new and have been run-in for a time, it's time to do the touch test. From then on you can compare that to all future tests. It only take a small rise in temperature to indicate that something is starting to fail. If ever in doubt pull the hub and do it once a year for good measure. I also do it before every long haul no matter how long it's been since my last check. If you wait until the hub is hot to touch you have done yourself a dis-service and to your fellow motorists. By follow my own advice, these bearing which were the original ones that came with the trailer 8 years ago, have led a good and productive life. One more point, it's better to do your maintenance in summer when the fishing slows than in winter. Spring and Fall are great times but the fish are always calling.

JR an old school mechanic like myself has to get his hands greasy at least once a year just to feel right. When I learned how to do bearings there were no such things like that fancy high tech device you have.

"gene"

And all this time I thought you were just an old geezer. LOL

I've been an old geezer all my life but now it's beginning to show. :Rofl
"gene"

Gene, you're wiser than many I know. I see things most don't. A real pleasure to know you.

Bearings have went down hill some since they started making them in China. Some trailer parts places make a double lip seal,it just helps make a surer seal.You have to make sure that the area on the spline where the seal sets is smooth as glass. Load the bearing properly by spinning the wheel and tightening until the wheel starts to have a little resistance when you turn it.Then back off just enough to free it and get the spindle nut to line for the key.If you use bearing buddies when you grease cold stop before the indicator shows full.The grease will expand some on warmer days and can put to much pressure on your seal.If you can keep just a small amount of pressure on the bearing assembly it will help to keep the water out while its submerged. When the axle is a foot or more submerged there is a little water pressure trying to force water in.

I'm just talkin' on that dang ol internet

The grease expands very little on warm/hot days. It's not volatile enough (light ends on the hydrocarbon components). Water pressure on the hub assembly is minimal, 0.433 psi at a one foot depth.

your science astounds me.And all this time .....

All good points DG.

PPG left those off his assignment. A few more points off. I guess we will have to curve his grade as he has a handicap (Geezer syndrome) LOL

Being an old time mechanic, I thought all of y'all knew that. I know all the steps by habit of doing them for years and years but forgot that the new techies haven't had all that basic experience. There are no wheel bearing on those new fangle electronic devices. Good points DG.
"gene"

This thread got me curious about the condition of the bearings in my 17 month old Tracker (Trail Star) trailer. I pulled the hubs and found the inner race in the same condition as Gene's. I'm replacing all the OEM Chinese bearings with (made in USA) Timkens.

Thanks for the posts!

Check your boxes the Timkens come in.....a lot of Timkens are made in China and Italy now.

Guys I have to trailer my boat to south Florida next spring 700 mile round trip). Before then I want to check and replace or repack by bearings. I also would like to get a spare hub assembly and a spare set of bearings just in case. Been a looooong time since I pulled hubs and bearings. If I remember correctly the part number on the bearing gives you what you need to know to replace it, but how do I determine what size hub I need? I have 5 lug 12 inch tires, but I did not know if all axle diameters were standard for that size hub are not??
The trailer was manufactured here in SC not far from me so I guess they could tell me, but I was going to buy from Northern Hydraulics if I could figure out the size i need.

You need to know your spindle Diameters where your inner and outer bearing ride on it.....some are same size both measurements and some are bigger dia. on the inner bearing position.....just pull your hub off....wipe the grease off of your spindle and measure those two diameters with some calipers....for example... some are 1 in. X 1 in. ; some are 1 1/16 X 1 1/16 ; some are 1 3/8 X 1 1/16

OK. I bought a new digital readout caliper and have not used it yet. Be a good opportunity.
Thanks G.
I sure wish I could make y'alls spring fest at Toledo Bend, sounds like a blast but it is over 700 miles (I checked on Mapquest)

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Originally Posted by SeaRay

OK. I bought a new digital readout caliper and have not used it yet. Be a good opportunity.
Thanks G.
I sure wish I could make y'alls spring fest at Toledo Bend, sounds like a blast but it is over 700 miles (I checked on Mapquest)

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Man thats nothing .....Lousiana is worth the drive....Randys crawfish etouffee is worth the trip

SeaRay, also get the size off the spindle where the seal runs. That's the step up behind where the inner bearing runs. Bearing, spindles and hubs have somewhat been standardized by the carrying capacity of the axle, but go by the measurements off your spindle to be sure because yours could be different. Since you will have to pull the hub to get the measurement it would be a good idea to try fit the new one before you put it back together.

I'm looking at a chart that shows:
5 lug on 4.5" circle 1250 pound capacity inner bearing 1" outer bearing 1" seal 1.250
5 lug on 4.5" circle 1350 pound capacity inner bearing 1 1/16" outer bearing 1 1/16" seal 1.25" or 1.50"
5 lug on 4.5" circle 1750 pound capacity inner bearing 1 3/8" outer bearing 1 1/16" seal 1.72"
5 lug on 4.5" circle 2750 pound capacity inner bearing 1 3/4" outer bearing 1 1/4" seal 2.13" or 2.25"

"gene"

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Originally Posted by "G"

Check your boxes the Timkens come in.....a lot of Timkens are made in China and Italy now.

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These have USA etched on the bearings. Yesterday I read that Timken supplies the materials and provides onsite engineering team to their overseas plants to ensure quality.

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Originally Posted by Tracker123

The grease expands very little on warm/hot days. It's not volatile enough (light ends on the hydrocarbon components). Water pressure on the hub assembly is minimal, 0.433 psi at a one foot depth.

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But it does expand enough to push out a seal if there is no room to expand.

0.433 can be enough to push by a damaged seal.

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Originally Posted by RMGeorge

These have USA etched on the bearings. Yesterday I read that Timken supplies the materials and provides onsite engineering team to their overseas plants to ensure quality.

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Most, not all, bearings are manufactured by China Shenglin Bearing Co.,ltd who now manufacture Timken Bearings, Others are bad about reboxing parts.

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Originally Posted by jig rig

But it does expand enough to push out a seal if there is no room to expand.

0.433 can be enough to push by a damaged seal.

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Granted, but I believe the most common cause of pushed out seals is pumping too much grease in to start with and it blew out the seal. Ask me how I know! :bash