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Hey guys, bought a Shakespeare 7' spinning combo, ultralight. It's pre spooled with stren original mono, but from my experience with bass fishing, mono tangles up easily. Since I will be using a beetle spin and perhaps a trout magnet, since I heard they catch trout as well as crappie, should I replace the mono with dark green braid? Thanks. I will be fishing in both clear water and green water, and will use a leader.
My :twocents says ... stick with mono. Braid comes with its own set of potential "problems".
I prefer Vicious Panfish copoly 6lb test, over Stren products ... but, Stren Gold 4lb test mono & Mr Crappie Super Hi-vis 4lb test mono were used by me & my fishing buddies for years prior to me starting to use Vicious line. They still use Stren Gold & other brands.
That's not saying that Stren doesn't make good products. I use many different brands of mono lines, including Stren, BPS Excel, and Trilene. I also use PowerPro 10/2 hi-vis braid .... tied direct to my baits (no leader). But, I also don't fish lakes with clear water.
You can remove the tangles and potential for tangles, by dragging a good length of line through the grass (at home) or behind a boat (at idle speed) ... then reel the line back on the reel spool under tension (finger/thumb pressure) ... then put your bait back on. On reels that have been sitting for a good while & not been used, mono tends to "set" in coils. Those can be "stretched out" and more or less removed prior to using that reel. Tie off the end of the line and walk off at least 2-3 times the distance of a good cast, then stretch the line & hold it stretched for a few seconds & release ... do that 2 or 3 times, then cut the line loose from the tie ... then reel the line in under the finger/thumb pressure. That will remove the coils and relax the line, which will make it cast farther & not tangle or jump off the reel in coils.
That tying & stretching deal can also be a good time to set your drag, so that once the line has been stretched out to near its maximum, the drag will slip. That should insure you that the drag will slip well before a fish can pull against your line hard enough to break it. It can also insure you that the rod probably won't break before the drag slips, too.
... cp :kewl
Know that braid sometimes is bad, but mono seems to always tangle or break for me, despite dragging it, stretching it, ect. Any good braid recommendations? I got 20 lb Spiderwire that is the same diameter or less. Can I use that, with a leader? Thanks.
Without knowing what rod/reel, line pound test, knots used, and how you cast ... it's hard to determine why your mono tangles or breaks so easily. What baits are being used may also be a factor.Quote:
Originally Posted by csen147
As for braid ... I've used Spiderwire 20/6, and Cortland 15lb test, but currently use PowerPro 10/2 as the only braid used for "casting". And I only have one rod/reel with PP braid, and generally only cast Roadrunners & Whirly Bees on that outfit. I don't use a leader, but there's no reason why you couldn't use one ... and see if your tangles/breakage problems are resolved.
... cp :kewl
I use a size 20 spinning reel and a 7' UL rod.
I throw light lights, such as plastic worms.
You might consider replacing the "pre-spooled" Stren & putting on fresh line. No telling how long that line has been on there, or what conditions it's been subjected to.
Check all the guides on your rod, with a Q-tip or cotton ball, to make sure there are no scratches or grooves or sharp edges that may be nicking your line.
What brand & model is this "size 20" reel ??
And when you cast with it : do you cast with a overhead snap of the wrist, sidearm swing, overhead whole arm cast, or how exactly ?? Some baits have a tendency to spin quite a bit, depending on how you cast ... especially a quick wrist snap cast. Plastic worms that are not hooked dead center & hang straight are notorious for "rolling" on the retrieve.
Spinning & spincast reels are also notorious for imparting a twist to the line, simply a nature of the way they work. That's why I always advise doing the "stretching" & "untwisting" maneuvers.
Line "jumping off" the spool is a sign that there's too much line on the spool, or the line is too stiff or too heavy (in pound test) for the size of the reel's spool. Tangles upon casting can be caused by heavy coiling of the line and/or light lures not putting enough tension on the line as it's wrapped back around the spool when reeling in ... causing the line to wrap loosely around the spool, which allows the new incoming line to get under the coils of the previously wrapped line ... which will cause more than one layer of line to come off the reel, at the same time, upon the next cast. (and you end up with a "birds nest" between the reel & gathering guide)
Many will say to close the bail on a spinning rod by hand, as closing the bail by cranking the handle will impart a twist in your line. Personally, I believe how you cast & what you're casting can cause the bait you're casting to spin ... and that's a greater problem than one extra twist in the line from closing the bail by turning the handle. The only way I've been able to cut down on bait spin is to stop "wrist snap" casting & make my casts with a more fluid motion, especially when using very light baits (jigs < 1/16oz) or "off center weighted baits" (Roadrunners, Beetlespins, etc.)
... cp :kewl
Braid is rough on fishing reels .:twocents The reason some folks have twist or tangles with spincast or open faced reels is turning handle while drag is slipping twisting the lines .
Stick with mono! A hard hook set with braid and you will rip the lips off crappie. Mono works the best because of the stretch. You also need a very flexible tip, and backbone in the rod.
Like posted above, tangles come from cranking while slipping. Also comes from a rolling lure, crank bait. Eliminate both and you won't have tangles.
Thanks! I used my mono and got no tangles. I went out to a stream today, used my Beetle Spin - no bites. I had the idea to use some Tout Magnets, but the problem was that the fish would nibble, but not engulf, or when they do bite, they come off the hook. Just can't seem to get a really good hook in. Question is - do you use scents so your panfish will hold on when they bite?
Catching panfish on artificials can be frustrating at times, especially with sunfish, as they "nip" at their prey ... trying to dismantle it into pieces, rather than engulfing the whole thing (like a Crappie or Bass usually does). One thing that can be done is go to a smaller bait. Scents may attract more interest in your baits, but don't always guarantee they'll hold on longer. Putting a piece of live offering on the hook is usually a better solution ... something like a piece of worm, wax worm, a cricket, or even a strip of skin/meat from a previously caught fish.Quote:
Originally Posted by csen147
Around here, a Cabin Creek popeye jig with a waxworm threaded on the hook & suspended under a small bobber/float & fished along cliff walls or deep rocky banks, during the spawning period of Bluegills & other sunfish, is usually pretty productive and may also tempt Bass & Catfish.
On lakes that have a good population of Redear Sunfish (Shellcrackers), many people use a jig with a small plastic body (with legs) and tip the hook with a piece of worm/nightcrawler. I've caught them (& Bluegill) on a plain jighead with a section of nightcrawler threaded on the hook ... with and without a float.
The bigger the panfish species you're after, the bigger the bait/hook that can be used .... but, even very small baits can be tempting to larger species.
I prefer to use & catch fish on artificials, but I am by no means a "purist" when it comes to how or what I catch fish with. If the situation dictates it, I'm not averse to feeding them a little "meat" along with my plastics or other artificials.
... cp :kewl
:hesaid:hesaid:hesaid
Thanks say I got a trout magnet and I am drifting it. I just cover up the exposed hook? Also, do scents help the fish hold on more to the bait? Thanks.
Attachment 213863
Quote:
Originally Posted by csen147
Do NOT cover up the exposed hook.
If you are referring to "covering up the exposed hook" with a piece of worm or other live offering, then yes .... that's all you need to cover. You are, in effect, "scenting" the jig with the "smell/flavor" of the live offering. The biggest difference in this and "scents" from a bottle or package, is the length of time it will last.Quote:
Originally Posted by csen147
If, like DB4D seems to be assuming, you're referring to "covering up the exposed hook" to make the bait "weedless" ... then IMHO that's debatable and comes down to a personal choice. All of my jigs, that are used for casting or dock shooting, are weedless jigheads w/plastic bodies added. I have no problems getting hits on them, or setting the hook securely in the upper portion of the Crappie's mouth, nor do I lose fish on account of the weedguard. I don't target sunfish, as a rule, but I have caught some near 8" in length while targeting Crappie with a 1/16oz jighead & 1.5" plastic body. Most of those plastic bodies were solid bodied & stinger shad shaped. The only result I ever obtained when using hollow bodied tubes was to have the sunfish nip off most or all of the skirt pieces, or yank the tube down onto the hook bend. :Doh:
I've used the "Magnet" bodies several times, but have yet to have a hit on them. They now reside in the deeper recesses of one of my "less often used" tackle containers. My 1.5" plastic body preferences are CrappiePro Slugs & Panfish Assassins. My 2" body preferences are Slabanator Shad & Mr Crappie Shadpole.
... cp :kewl
As somebody who uses the TM a lot, I just don't think the jig head or the plastic body is suited to Texas rigging (if that's what he's talking about.) A crappie slider with a spider slider head is a different story.Quote:
Originally Posted by CrappiePappy
No, I want to cover the hook with some bug meat or dough. I also am thinking about dipping the whole thing in garlic powder before. casting.
No, I am not thinking about Texas Rigging the hook. The action would be terrible!
Quote:
Originally Posted by csen147
I often tip with mealworms or wax worms.
Just not necessary, IMO. Tipping the jig with a small piece of worm is more than enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by csen147
I agree :ThumbsUpQuote:
Originally Posted by deathb4disco
Also, any "powder" scent would be immediately erased once the bait entered the water. Even oil based sprays/rubs will release from the bait shortly after entering the water.
If you "really really" want to add scent to your plastics, put them in a ziplock bag with a few drops of Anise Oil and the contents of one fish oil capsule .... work the oils around over all the plastic bodies ... then let them sit for a week or so. They "might" take in some of the "scent" of those oils, unless the oils in the plastic prevent them from doing so.
I have some "scent discs" that Slab produces, called Gewbers, but have never tried them. Many that have say they work. http://www.crappie.com/crappie/gewbe...eedback-forum/
... cp :kewl
Thanks! Any luck fishing with dough (flour, water, and a hint of garlic powder) to tip the hook? Worms aren't always in season.
Then I would use a Berkley crappie nibble or some type of Gulp worm.Quote:
Originally Posted by csen147
I got that. Any place to buy some cheap but good worms for fishing? I need them for the Fisheries Sciences Seminar.
Yes, soak your garden or yard for a couple of hours and wait for them to come to the surface. All the worms you can pick.Quote:
Originally Posted by csen147
This is what I just bought. It was from BPS.. I put 6lb hi-vis line on it.
http://i.imgur.com/MrNUxIL.jpg
Hard to tell based on the picture, what are the spec on the rod and reel?
Rod-Length, action, line weight, lure weight?
Reel- line capacity (min and max). Should be something along the lines of 2/240-6/180 (2 pound/240yards, 6 pounds/ 180 yards).
cant believe u posted a picture of this particle jig. what the name of it? who makes it?