Printable View
I didn't want to hijack the other thread, but I have always wondered...... How do you match jig size with bobber size? I know: Size Does Matter! lol I have had trouble with jig being too small and bobber stop will only make it about half the way to the bobber. Or the jig will drop and as soon as the stop hits the bobber....the whole thing sinks. I've looked at different bobbers to see if they designate a size/jig weight limit, but haven't found anything that gives me a hint. thanks!
Some of the Thill floats do.Quote:
Originally Posted by vic n
For my floats that don't, I mark the capacity on the float with a permanent marker.
Yeah, you have use some thin line like power pro 4 test to make slide through correctly , also attach your jig to the bobber, and put it in a glass of water to see how it floats.Quote:
Originally Posted by vic n
On the top of some bobbers there is an insert with a small hole. That can be removed. I think Lindy is the one maybe some thills. The thill pro has a nice large brass feral that I like. I use 4lb. test
Most slip bobbers I've used perform well when you use a "fused" line (not a braided one) like Fireline Crystal, as your mainline. Attach a Spro PowerSwivel underneath the bobber (instead of the jig). Use a swivel big enough so that the eye will not get stuck in the bobber - or, add a small glass bead between the swivel and the bottom of the bobber.
Then tie on about a 1' - 2' fluorocarbon leader (reduced visibility and abrasion resistance) and then your jig. I've used this 2# test Crystal for several seasons now (jig fishing and slip bobbers as well) with no problems. A 1/32 oz. marabou jig has no difficulty going through a slip bobber, to the desired depth with this set-up.
Now I have to add that the waters I'm fishing are not particularly snag infested, which is why I can get away with such light line. However, with a slip bobber, you would generally set your depth to just above those snags anyway, so it wouldn't think that to be a problem.
How about a picture Crestliner08?
Take a five gallon bucket of water and tie a bobber and jig. Just use a bead to stop the float so it fit the size of the bucket. Add a snap hook to change jigs quickly. When the float holds the jig off the bottom just use a permanent marker and mark similar floats with what weight it will float. Then replicate and duplicate that setup in Lake water.Quote:
Originally Posted by vic n
Attachment 207725
I start with a minimum of 1/16 oz to use with a slip float. 1/32 can work, but do not always function perfectly in my experience, depending on the depth you want to fish. Once you get over 4-5' deep, the 1/32 doesn't have the mass to pull line through the cork.
If you want to fish a 1/32 oz jig, add split shot above the jig to help get it to the depth you need, or start with a 1/16 to begin with. I have 1/16 oz weight jigs in several hook sizes from #6-#1 just to match conditions and the fish I'm after.
I also use 1/64oz jig with #8 hook for bluegill on slip floats, again with shot added for weight about 9-12" above the jig.
The best sensitivity for me is 1/16 oz jig with slip float and no extra weight, or a lighter jig with a quill type float attached directly to the line and no extra weight, which is not a slip set up (but very sensitive!).
If you use a float swivel adaptor like this:Quote:
Originally Posted by Techno2000
Amazon.com : Thill Float Swivel Adapter : Fishing Equipment : Sports & Outdoors
... you can use 100# line, and it will still slide through perfectly.
The "line through the body" style of float is a very poor design for slip float fishing.
Well, someone has already posted a great picture of a common slip float set-up. Took a snapshot of what I'm talking about above:
Attachment 207739
As I said, this works extremely well with very light jigs, provided you use the appropriate kind of main line, to facilitate a friction free decent for the jig. I did not draw in the line in this depiction, but, along with my instructions, it's pretty much self explanatory.
The addition of a glass bead above the swivel acts as both an attractant and prevents the swivel from getting stuck in the bottom of the float. The bead above the float is what comes with the string type bobber stops that I prefer.
Now I use the slip floats from Cabela's that you can put on your standing line. They come in a set of 3 sizes and if your float is to small and goes under just take it off and replace with a larger one from the package. The float has a slit in the side and also through the straw that the line goes through. Simply insert your fishing line in the slit and then turn the float on the straw to close the opening and it is ready to slide up and down on your line. I have found that with lighter line the line will stick to the old style of slip floats and it will hang up after several cast. I used 8-10 lb line for my slip float rods. With the new bobbers I noticed that the line doesn't stick to it as much. EB
I just pinch on a shot a couple feet above my jig . Works well for my simple style of fishing.
This. I use a 1/8 1/4 split shot. i like big bobbers :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Olegiller1
Do you have a picture of those? New to me. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eager Beaver
I am old school so can't supply a link. Go to Cabela's site and go to slip bobbers and they have 2 styles. Mr. Crappie twist-on Twist- off bobbers
Fresh water tackle easy on slip bobbers. EB
Thanks for all the great replies. Looks like I need to go get a selection of sizes and do some testing to figure out sizes/weights. And consider some different line sizes to get everything to work together
thanks again!