1983 115 hp Johnson

I have a fuel issue with this motor. I've tried to ad a picture to this post but I am not for certain that I have done it correctly. Facing the motor to the left of the carbs and at the top of the carbs is a pump (I'm assuming that's what it is) that gas is running through. It has a knob on the top of it that will idle up the motor if turned. That face plate is cracked and leaking gas. I'm having trouble with the motor idling and I think this is my problem. Anybody know what this part is called? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!

Attachment 202515

The part that's leaking is the part in the picture with the red plastic piece on it. Forgive me for my ignorance, but I have no idea what to call it.

That's your primer solenoid cover and gasket that you are referring to. They're usually 10-
15 dollars for the parts and take just a couple minutes to swap out.

Thanks so much!!

I have another question about this motor. I thought I would ask here instead of creating another thread. Where should the water come out of this motor to determine that the water pump is working? I'm not finding water coming out anywhere.

It should have a mist of water coming out of the two exhaust holes on rear of housing just below bottom half of engine cover. Only when the thermostats open up. These older motors did not have a pee tube on them.

don't know about that one cray, but I have an 85HP '77 Johnson and an '80 100hp 'rude and both of them have a pee hole. it's on the left side of the bottom cowl near the back. that's looking at it from the rear.

I had a 81 115 Johnson I ran for years and it did not have a pee hole on it. Never really even thought about it until PicWic posted this. Maybe mine was there and never worked:Rofl my 1975 stinger 75 Johnson did not have one either.

Your right cray. This motor doesn't have a pee hole. There is a mist coming out of the exhaust holes. Also hooked up to muffs, there are three small holes at the foot that water comes out of.

Thanks for the replies I really appreciate it. Trying to learn this new motor!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Picwic

Your right cray. This motor doesn't have a pee hole. There is a mist coming out of the exhaust holes. Also hooked up to muffs, there are three small holes at the foot that water comes out of.

Thanks for the replies I really appreciate it. Trying to learn this new motor!!

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That is one good motor. I bought mine new in 81, ran it until 90 sold it to a friend and he ran it 5 years then sold it to another friend and it is still running today. Never a thing done to it except carb rebuilds.

This motor has been completely rebuilt by a professional shop. Super clean motor. The only trouble I'm having with it is it's flooding. When it's floods you can forget it it's not starting again until the next day. It floods while running at a idle. It will die while idling and it won't start again. I've put new plugs in it and took the carbs apart and cleaned them and I still have the problem. The carbs where the cleanest I've ever seen when I took them apart to clean them. I guess I'm going to try to rebuild them and put new floats and needles in them even though they look new. I've got to get this problem resolved because I've got to fish lol.

When you take the carbs apart, take the floats some place real quiet and shake them to see if they have any fuel in them. Some of the originals were prone to leak and get enough in them to cause them to stay open. And if you happen to have access to a Gram scale weighing them would be even better.

I would suggest that you replace the primer solenoid and see if the flooding issue is still there. If the plate is cracked it maybe leaking fuel into the carb throats which would cause a flooding condition.

That motor should have a tell-tale line on it. It is located on the right side towards the rear under the lower cowling. Looking at it from behind the motor.

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/jo...+Cover-johnson

Part #24

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/jo...p%3B+Crankcase

Parts # 22 And 50

If they are not there someone may have plugged the hole in the head
If the hose is there try sticking a stiff wire through the nozzle under the cowling to clean it out. Insects commonly build nests in there and plug them up.

That tell tale stream of water is a visual indicator of a working water pump and may save you from burning up your motor if checked every time you start it.

I called the shop today that rebuilt the engine before I got it. They said it sounded like a cracked or stretched diaphragm in the fuel pump. Bought a rebuild kit for the fuel pump and a rebuild kit for the primer solenoid. Rebuilt both and.......... Same problem!! I'm beating my head against the wall!!

This is probably a silly thing to check. But have your run it with the breather box off and made sure the choke is completely open?? If there is a linkage binding or a butterfly sticking it would could choke out idling, but still run up the lake...although very richly. May be why it will not start back up after it dies. Just a thought.

Are you positive it is flooding and not loosing prime?

I do not remember, but on the float needle...does it seat in an oring...or is it rubber tipped? I know you said you rebuilt them, and I'm not doubting you, but you might check and make sure the needle is seating completely...or that there isn't a small crease, scratch, etc on it that can allow fuel by. Make sure the float is set just below parallel when seated so you get a good seal. That isn't by the book...just how I do it. lol

Can you trace it to a plug/cylinder that is flooding when it dies or are they all wet? With two carbs you have different flows feeding each cylinder. You should be able to narrow it down to a cylinder or at least a pair. I would doubt the problem is in both carbs. Let it die then check all four. Maybe you will find a really wet one or two and be able to narrow it down a bit.

Not doubting your work...just some thoughts.

Thanks a lot for your help. I appreciate any ideas from anyone.

I didn't rebuild the carbs I just took them apart and cleaned them. They didn't look like they needed it. Cleanest carbs I've ever seen!!

I think I may have resolved the problem. I haven't got to run it enough yet to be sure. I think it's the primer solenoid flooding the motor. All four plugs are wet so I don't think it's a card issue. I unhooked the primer solenoid last night and it cranked right up and ran better than it has since I got it at a idle. Hopefully I'll get home today in time to test it further. I think the primer solenoid was pushing to much gas through it.

While you are working on the primer solenoid check the voltage on the control wire while using the choke switch to make sure it is disconnecting completely
The choke switch may be staying on or intermittently applying voltage. Should be "0" normally when running and 12 volts only when using the choke.
If showing some voltage you may have a bad switch.
If the voltage is OK I would suggest replacing the primer solenoid.
Sounds like you might be on the right track.
Good Luck

Thanks for the advice!!

The primer solenoid is working perfectly and the boats still flooding! I don't know what else to check!! I'm totally at a loss. The shop that rebuilt it can't touch it for a month and I don't won't to miss a month of fishing but it may be the only choice I have. If anyone has any other suggestions I'm open to any.

Give us some more history of the motor. Was it a complete rebuild with new rings/pistons etc.? How long ago was rebuild? How long have you owned this motor? Has the motor ever run right? Have you ever got it to run faster than idle? Did the person that owned it before have this problem or other issues before you bought it, if he will tell you.......

Have you tried pinching the hose shut on the solenoid or plug the line so no fuel can pass to the cylinders to see if that stops the flooding?
The knob on the top of the choke solenoid you said changed the idle...??? higher or lower? I am not familiar with that but it must be letting fuel through for it to change the Idle speed.

READ THIS +++++++++
I just found another possibility. That red lever on the solenoid may be in the wrong position!! !!!!! Try turning it to the opposite direction until it stops and try that.....

The red lever is a manual choke and is only supposed to be used if the solenoid is not working.
The motor will Be IN CONSTANT CHOKE if left on....................

I've only had the boat for two weeks. It was traded in at a car lot when the precious owner moved to Texas so I can't contact him. The motor was completely rebuilt new rings pistons ect. the end of last year. I have spoken with the shop that rebuilt it. They are reputable in this area.

When I first took it out it didn't idle really well but opened up fine and ran great outside of just a idle. The third time I took it out it flooded as I was loading it onto the trailer. I haven't gotten it to run since. Every time it floods either idling or trying to crank it and it will not hit again. I can take the plugs out and dry them and it will hit one time and then nothing.

I'm going to check compression and spark this evening just to make sure all that is good. I'll report my findings after running those test.

PM sent.
Keep us all posted as to out come.

It cranked and idle better today on muffs. I wanted to take it out but a storm moved through so I didn't get to. Maybe Monday I'll be able to put it in the water.

I still don't know what's been going on with the motor and haven't done anything to fix the problem so I'm not confident in the motor.

May be a long shot but have you checked your electrical system?? A cheap spark tester at a parts store would do the trick. I may have missed it. But its possible that its flooding because you aren't getting the fire you need. If you haven't checked the spark it might be worth a shot. Yes, they may be sparking...but you may not have that big nice white spark. Are you running champions?? In my experience the johnnyrudes like them over NGK or anything else. Are they open are closed electrode plugs? Just another thought or two. A weak spark that floods out and not fire will look like a flooded engine also. Seems odd it was good a couple trips then all up and did it. It might also be a good time to get a manual for the engine. Not one of the cheap ones from autozone...like a clymer...I think its kencook.com if I remember right you can get a repro of the OEM manual. ONLY way to go. Keep us informed...this one has me intrigued!!!

Thanks for your reply. I did purchase a spark tester and all wires appear to be producing great spark.

When I went to test spark Fri. it cranked right up. I let it idle on muffs and it did great. I am hoping to take it out tomorrow evening and see how it does in the water. I don't feel like I have resolved the problem. I hate issues that are sporadic lol.

Still having problems with this motor. I thought it was the reed valves. Two looked good and two appeared to be bad. I replaced the two bad ones and I still have the problem. I guess I'm going to give up and wait a month for the shop to look at it. I don't know anything else to do. I do appreciate all the input and help from members here.

You may want to add a tell- tale to your motor. Easy to do, and inexpensive.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dfar

READ THIS +++++++++
I just found another possibility. That red lever on the solenoid may be in the wrong position!! !!!!! Try turning it to the opposite direction until it stops and try that.....

The red lever is a manual choke and is only supposed to be used if the solenoid is not working.
The motor will Be IN CONSTANT CHOKE if left on....................

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Im still wondering the outcome of this...didnt see any answer... Sure sounds like thats what it could be. Take the primer solenoid out of the system altogether and try it...SHouldnt need it once its warmed up.

I'm sorry I haven't gotten back to this sooner. Still having motor problems. This time of my own doing lol. I bumped a wrench into the starter solenoid and fried the power pack. Replaced that and now I have one cylinder not firing :(.

I'm fairly positive my fuel problem was from the reed valves. I'm not certain because I fried everything putting the reed valves back in. A little more testing and hopefully I can isolate the problem with the firing and have a positive solution to this. I really wanted to spend the summer fishing not working on a motor!!

That is strange since the starter solenoid is not connected to the power pack in any way. The battery isn't connected in any way to the power pack either. It gets power from the stator.