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replaced old cranking battery with a new one, cant even get a day of fishing in without draining it dry, the electronics and livewell pump are the only things being used when not starting motor, any ideas on what could be draining battery? never had this problem before
What is reserve on the battery, and how many CCA's, and CA's?
dont know reserve but looks like 500 cca and 625 ca
original was 600 cca 750 ca
Get the biggest you can get Greg. I think size 34 cranking deep cycle. That happened to me before I went bigger. That's why I carry jumper cables in boat lol. Haven't had any issues since went to biggest battery. You remember it happy on the cm classic on lake lee.
Get a digital multimeter with an amps setting. Pull one battery cable and stick one lead to the cable and one lead to the battery post you just unhooked it from. If you read any amps with your other stuff turned off then you've got a parasitic drain or something shorted somewhere and that will drag the battery down.
Unless you've got something draining other than the 2 hds9s and the live well, I would think the new battery would hold OK. Did the new battery have a date on it? If it had been on the shelf a long time, the battery may be off the shelf bad. Either that, or you've got some other drain that you are unaware of.
You can also set a volt warning on the hds when drop below certain volt it alarms to prevent not being able to crank up.
I use my best deep cycle of the two when I replace my set of troller batteries .
As Delta said..
Check for current draw with everything turned off.
If indeed you do have current draw with everything off, try un hooking things until it goes away so you can isolate it.
I used to work for a local trucking company, it was common for flatbed trailers to get short circuits in the wiring harness, we found if you give them 24vdc, typically you could stand back and wait for the smoke!
Get something with 1000+ CA, and 850+ CCA. A 31 series has more reserve than a 24 or 27 series.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crappie Greg
Go BIG or go home!!!! [emoji57]
My 40hp motor requires a 1000 CA and 750+ CCA. I believe that interstate and tohatsu were in cahoots when developing the motor. If it does not have this it will do funny things like trip codes, go into limp mode or worse not start. I do not run anything extra on my cranking battery. Just a little draw over the day will cause me to have to troll back to the bank.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRiverMarine
My guess is you have something drawing your battery's Greg, but too cover your bases I would do both things recommended here. I would also disconnect my cranking battery when I get home and put it on charge. This way I know nothing has drawn on the charge I put on them before I go fishing. This may not fix the problem but it can only help your cause, also helps if you accidently left something on draining your battery. Only takes a Minute to disconnect and reconnect a battery. Good Luck buddy.
Tohatsu recommends a minimum of 850 CCA for their TLDI's.Quote:
Originally Posted by mdperson
We have put a battery disconnect switch on one of our work boats with the same problem. No more dead batteries.Quote:
Originally Posted by CrappiePro
Yeah its alot for a 40.
Greg I run a 12v leg off of one my trolling battery for my electronics and livewell. It does drain one of the trolling batts alittle more, but the motor fires up.
If a disconnect switch is helping the problem, something is drawing current...
But we don't know if that is the problem.
I don't know what all that boat has, relays and what not....
A relay could be stuck closed.
A tiny short could discharge the battery over a period of time, but typically something would get hot.
It takes about 1 min to stick a meter inline and check.
Greg, I can loan you a meter if you do not have one and wind up needing one.
I'm in total agreement with JPJ!!! Regardless of the fix, You Need To Find The Problem!!!!! It could possibly turn into a fire hazard if there a direct short somewhere causing the current draw. A chaffed hot wire can send current throughout an aluminum boat.
Disconnect the dash wires from the battery and see if a relay on the engine is causing the draw. If not, disconnect the battery cables from the engine and reinstall the dash wiring to see if that is the draw. A meter will tell you quicker.
I've seen batteries that checked good but had one bad cell that caused a faster discharge with a average load on them. I had just replaced the cranking battery in my blue demo for that very reason. Checked good, but went down to quick while running my live wells, electronics, and other stuff. Had to jump it 4-5 times before I replaced it. No problems after I did.
And I am assuming after this battery discharged, you fully charged it to only discharge again?
Just making sure something wasn't left on causing it to discharge and you never recharged it..
yep have onboard charger that stays plugged up from time it gets put in garage until next fishing trip, got a much bigger battery installed , this should fix the problem, thank everyone for their input!!!Attachment 200953Quote:
Originally Posted by JigginPoleJoe
Who carries those batteries?
Greg I kept having trouble with one of my trolling battery replaced it after a couple trips was down again turned out to be one bank of mine on board charger went out !!!!!!!'
Battery Outfitters off of JFK north Little Rock they have what ever u need and at great pricesQuote:
Originally Posted by JigginPoleJoe
That should do it!!!