Just curious as to how many of you, Humminbird users, use the "Fish ID" feature on your unit.
Thanks for participating.
Charlie
Just curious as to how many of you, Humminbird users, use the "Fish ID" feature on your unit.
Thanks for participating.
Charlie
Depth is so important with crappie fishing. I use fish ID when longlining, pushing, or even cork fishing to guage the depth of the fish.
I haven't been using it ......But I am going to start.
I use it when vertical jigging. When sitting still I get a better feel for what I am seeing.
I've always used humminbird and always used the fish id. never take it off.
I never use ID. However, I turn on ID on Brenda's unit when she is out with me. Keeps her in the boat longer. Psychological warfare.
X2 Canepole
I know all of you crappie anglers are not beginners like me. But so far I see just as many using "fish id" if not more using "fish arches". I know by now Humminbird has tested there product and they know what percentage of the time fish arches are real up against who often fish arches are seen or missed, while "fish id" would have picked them up. I would like to know that percentage and if it is not a high enough percentage why even offer "fish id" or is this a selling gimmick? I am just here asking these questions because this applies to all the sonars that are sold today not just Humminbird. Why are they so many crappie fishermen using "fish id" while I read this everywhere on web sites? Here is just a few:
Manyunits have a fish ID feature which interprets the fish arcs andassigns a fish icon to the display in relative size to the arch. TheFish ID feature is good for beginnersto get a feel for the fish finder. However, once you learn to readthe naturalarches you will gain a more accurate and full understanding of whatis under your boat.
Thenext setting to visit in manual mode, is the Fish ID setting.Onceyou have a feel for your unit, turnoff the Fish ID featureand try to get used to reading the fish arches that you will seenaturally on the screen. The fish icons displayed by the Fish ID areuseful for true beginners, but once you begin to familiarize yourselfwith the display it is better to learn how to read the natural fisharches. Thefish arches will give you a more accurate view of what is under water
FishID Setting
Inthe automatic the fish finder will be using a FishID, which is a useful feature for true beginners. Once youhave a better feel of the fish finder, you can turnthis feature off and learn to read the natural fish arches on thescreen. This way you will get more accurate readings of the underwater
I use the "ID" as a beep to let me know when a good signal comes across the screen and I'm not looking at it at that moment. It does not distract unless I run into a huge school and then I can turn it off with five button pushes.
I use it because it's been right so far and my "interpretation" of returns with it off has been wrong.
Prior to DI, it was a must for me. Just because it doesn't say there's a fish doesn't mean there isn't, but anytime it says there's a fish almost always guarantee's there is. I had a hard time picking fish out of brush or grass, but DI helps to single out each individual mark.
With the 3 size fish ID small, medium and large what would each one be size wise?? Example, a small fish would be a fish between 4'' and 12''. A medium between 12'' and 20'' and large over 20''. I don't know, anybody know???????
A general rule of thumb would be:
small = 1 pound largemouth bass
medium = 3 pound largemouth bass
large = 5 pound largemouth bass
Sorry guys, no Crappie cross-over sizes.
Greg, would it be fair to say then that small would/could be maybe say 10 to 14 inch crappie??????????
I've been fishing for 30 years and in all that time I've never turned fish ID on
manual mode, then tune to best picture, not the most returns, but the most information about the surrounding
I wont use it on my Helix 5 but did use it on my old HB that didn't show depth lines
Easier for me to see fish symbols than an arch.
The shallow water (under 10 ft . ) what you see on the low end units is not enough to depend on either . fish the structure . jmo :twocents
I have been watching this post and it looks like just about as many use it as don't use the little fish icons. I tried both ways myself and have decided that one way is about as good as the other. Both ways have their good and bad points. I think using and learning whatever you use is the key to knowing what you see and have confidence in on your sonar and that is more important. My wife likes the little fish icons that tell her how deep they are and as long as she sees fish she wants to fish longer and that is just fine with me.
the bigger issue is which group catches the most crappie :dono
You use blue fish or orange fish?
I use both. I like using the 200 and 83 beams. The red fish are closest to transducer. If you getting a lot of red returns, you in some pretty thick fish. These are the ones I base my depth mainly on. Depth is most important key to consistently catching crappie. Especially, open water suspended fish. SI is great for scouting to find structure or beds. Not any good while fishing. DI is good for lining up structure and staying on it when vertical fishing. Not very good for longlining or spidering. Even when vertical jigging to me Switchfire with high sensitivity is better to see jig and fish. The best for this is Chirp but not needed. The fancy toys we buy can become a distraction and cost us valuable fishing time or cause missed bites.
I stopped using them years ago because it seemed like I got more detail with the fish ID off. But they have come a long way with the electronics in them so maybe its a lot better now. I haven't had a chance to compare with my new HDS7 yet.
For those who do use Fish ID, what sensitivity do you keep the Fish ID on?
Default .... When I use it