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To calibrate one they want you to drive the boat in a circle and complete a 390 degree turn. I did mine in the garage buy just turning the puck by hand till the screen said CALIBRATION OK. The boys on BBC are giving me chitt about that's not the correct way to do it. What do you guys think.?
I don't think that puck know whether it's on the water or not. All it knows is it went in a circle enough to make it kick into being calibrated. I don't agree with a lot of the stuff I read over there. Bet it works just fine when you take it out.
That's the same thing I thought Cray. Here is the link see if this makes any sense to you.
POINT 1 CALIBRATION
Well Wilbur, that is how I calibrate my range finder. I see no reason for it not to work. I do know when I change geographic area, I have to recalibrate my rangefinder for more accuracy. This might be the case with the POINT 1. I haven't got past KY Lake yet.
I do know an aircraft compass is also calibrated like what you described.
Most of the magnetic compass chips (internal circuit) only have a 2 degree accuracy anyway. When you a few feet away from a brush pile, 2 degrees ain't much unless the pile is a twig.
If you have a wet compass or a magnetic compass of any type, you can compare results. This would tell you more than any bass fisherman.
I don't use the BBC much. Too many experts.
When Lowrance calibrates the puck at the factory, do you think they mount each one to a boat and take a few laps??? LOL!! I doubt that completely.
I would think a machine does something much the same as you have done. The only problem I would have with doing this at home and especially in my garage is the fact that there are so many more magnetic influences on the puck. When on the water all the influences are the same as they will always be when you are fishing. i.e. TM here, speaker magnets there, power wires over there, ect. In your garage the point one is being influences in a lot more directions.
Well, I am not sure of garage structure interference, but I have used this digital magnetic compass in the last century and had success with it. I calibrated it in the metal school building. Worked ok. I did not verify its accuracy, but the robot we built knew N,S,E,W. Smart robot. I know folks that can't get NSEW straight. ha
https://solarbotics.com/product/35180/
Wish I was smart as them guys. If it went to calibrate then it should be calibrated. I do agree with the one guy about using a cheap compass to figure out the best location to mount it. And I understand the reason behind calibrating that particular compass just like CP's range finder. But if you read a bunch of that crap they are talking why don't I have to calibrate the compass in my trolling motor? A magnetic compass is a magnetic compass. I also understand the reason's for calibration accuracy. Also, like CP saiid about his range finder,I can see the value in maybe doing a recalibration if you came all the way down here to fish then again when you got back home. But once it is done, mounted in the optimum location that shouldn't take but a couple of minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by wilbur
Thanks guys for all the help. and Cray I did check the area with a $5 car compass that you stick on the window. I will try it when this snow melts and the water gets soft.
THANKS
Once you get a chance to get on the water, check your compass calibration by selecting POINT1 as heading (GPS gadgets page).
Then goto your compass screen and compare it to the $5 compass as you motor around. This will give you a visual comparison of the two. Like I said, the accuracy of the POINT 1 magnetic sensor is prob 2 degree accuracy.
Will do CP. I will probably leave the compass in the boat.
Don't get it close to the POINT 1.
Lawrence Rep once told me to check if my Point 1 was calibrated by doing this procedure;
Turn on the Heading Extension and the Course Extension. Find area on water that has no wind/waves and no current to affect boat travel direction. Slowly motor forward in straight line. The course extension line will cover the heading extension line if the point 1 is calibrated. If they are two separate lines it is not calibrated.
I have tried this and it seems to work.
I like bbc ...
It's entertaining at times ...
Rickie
Quote:
Originally Posted by z520tom
Yes this is true. I use this technique to help stay on a point. The blue line is worthless at this time except for aiming anyhow (sitting still ). I also use the measure tool. The measure also gives a visual of direction change and distance from the point. It tells me how sorry spot lock really works. I mostly use spot lock for pee lock. Sometimes I turn on my range beeper and hit spot lock when I hear the arrival beep. Don't use this technique much anymore caus I can't hear dodo anymore. I like to set off a brush pile and chunk roadrunners past the pile and crank em back. I love me some roadrunners. I only do this when I am by myself up front and have lots of room in the boat or if I am in my Jon Boat.
Thank You I will try that if I ever get out.Quote:
Originally Posted by z520tom
Cane Pole I am a roadrunner guy also. love to cast them to brushpiles that I sit back off of and swim them through. With the Point 1 and the range rings set to the 25' radius I can fish the target without having to drive over it which I am convinced spooks fish sometimes. I also think the roadrunner will catch the larger fish out of the brushpiles I fish. The last boat I bought did not have a i-Pilot with SPOT LOCK for the reasons you stated.
I have a trolling motor on the back of my pondtoon to counter the SPOT LOCK (moving me in on the spot). This arrangement works. I need lots of practice with this arrangement. I also use the range lines.