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I am looking to get a project boat and was thinking about using the textured deck paint instead of carpet. Any thoughts? I saw it at home depot and looked like it would work like the new vinyle surfaces. Or if anyone else has any other new ideas vice carpet.
I have heard lot of duck hunters like "Hydro-turf".
I can't decide what to do myself, my carpet is about gone, too. I dread doing it, but got to do something soon.
Carpet replacement is not that bad. As far as using so sort of roll on or spray on stuff do some research, a lot of that stuff comes off pretty easy if not done rite.
The have some new roll on stuff they been advertising for decks. I've been wondering how it would work on a boat. Can't remember the name of it.
I used Tuff coat with a roller on my aluminum Xpress. I seen a boat done that used a texture ceiling paint gun rented from Home Depot that really look good. What I like is not having all the fish slime to clean out of carpet. I fish more days than not and IMO carpet just wears out to soon.
You really can't beat a good carpet for the boat. Not only does it provide a better look and comfort for the feet but it also provides a quiet footing in the boat. This is especially true in an aluminum boat. The carpet dissipates the sound and makes it easier for you to get closer to structure without spooking the fish all the time. Have you ever seen a fancy bass boat without carpet? Ever wonder why?
Carpet isn't that bad to redo if you don't overthink it. pull the old, scrape what you can and grind (gently) the rest of the residue and start putting in the new. Don't cut the corners on the hatches straight down the corner. Cut an angle from the point of the corner on a 45* and wrap the other and cut it to match, then glue and final trim. The roll on stuff is hard to get the prep right. I've seen a bunch of it peeling like a bad sunburn. Buying good carpet to install helps some with the job, and the price difference isn't that significant IMHO. Weldwood contact cement is what we used at correct craft and it stayed put. Smear lots of glue on both sides and apply and leave it alone til it's dry. If you use it like contact is designed you are gonna hate yourself somewhere thru the job. Once it sticks you're done. Getting used to the idea of doing it is most of the hard part.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kickingback
How about a Ranger....doesn't get much fancier.
Attachment 177910
I know that you never see carpet in saltwater boats and they fish really shallow water without spooking and the ranger that was posted looks like a saltwater version. I have done carpet replacement before and no it is not hard but it is time consuming. I just figured that this deck and boat dock paint would work just as good for about the same cost and hopefully last longer.
What he said! My buddies and I have tried it on 2 different boats. Doesn't hold up long. And when it starts coming off, it looks like crap. I dont know what the difference is with factory stuff, because that holds up, but paint on and spray on doesnt.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rees Guide
Yeah, I would think even a rubberized paint would wear out in 1-2 years of normal use. I wonder what it would cost to put "Rhino Lining" in a boat?
I rolled my pontoon fishing boat 10 years ago with 2 part rubberized epoxy. Has held up great and really easy to clean. Going to redo this fall.
Sorry to disagree, but I had a Crestliner with rubberized, textured lining (I think it was Rhino) for over 7 years with NO noticeable wear - period. I bought it that way new. (The new owner was amazed at how nice it looked.) And all I had to do was hose it down after use and she smelled sweet and pretty all the time (LOL!).Quote:
Originally Posted by vic n
My friends Tracker, on the other hand, has carpeting. UGH! Talk about a smell, especially after fishing for lakers for a couple of days. You can't easily clean boat carpeting. I'm sorry, that's just a fact. Quiet? Hmmmmm....don't recall that being an issue, what-so-ever, with mine being non-carpeted. Of course, this boat of mine had a raised floor, so that may have accounted for the lack of noise (?). I use to fish barefoot in it during the summer sometimes as well - with no discomfort. (Old feet!)
If you "LIKE" carpeting, more power to you. I've got nothing against it; just that there are better options out there - for ease of maintenance. They do look prettier though with a carpet! :)
One of my many hobbies is making dog agility equipment and most of the contact obatacles must be non slip. With this in mind, I have tried everything available and all have advantages and disadvantages so let me share my expeiences as most will transfer directly to boat resurfacing as well. Most of the liquid (brish roll or spray on) coatings are some variation of a cross linked urethane. Very sticky stuff and next to impossible to remove from skin.
General application notes,
Surfaces must be clean, clean, clean
No wax residue anywhere - spend a few bucks and get the wax and silicone remover and use after first wash and before sanding.
Surface prep - I find a 36 grit abrasive disc to be the most economical. Ruff up the clean surface
Prime following mfgs directions prime the freshly prepared surfaces. Let primer dry the proper amount of time - if it says recoat in 24 - 36 hours, you must recoat when it says same thing with top coat. I have used products that are ready for topcoat in 2-4 hours others need 48 hours to be ready. Read the directions.
Clean up - always wear painters gloves many spills splashes can be cleaned with jergens hand lotion if applied before product cures. Also a good idea to apply to any exposed skin before starting to do your coating project.
Temperature and curing time and temp are listed on product label - read, understand and follow. Some products need moisture to cure so a light msting of water may hhelp but note, this does not mean standing water.
Fans are nice to have to keep yourself working in freesh air, most of these products are noxious and potentially hazzardous. and as someone mentioned previously keep a change of clothes in your shop, If you gotta go into the house change your clothes especially your footwear.
I've used almost every product available and they all work if substrate is properly prepared. If you cheat at that step, you will regret it in the future
There is this option ...
https://styx-river.com/products/?cat...&subcategory=6
Rickie
I wonder how much moisture those would hold underneath? My carpet is getting ragged and I need to replace it with something.Quote:
Originally Posted by rnvinc
When a buddy of mine replaced the flooring in his boat He applied durabak...............That had to be close to 10 years ago and it still looks new
Non-slip Safety Coating for Your Boat or Ship
I'm using this one in the floor of my boat ...Quote:
Originally Posted by justinp61
https://styx-river.com/products/?cat...tegory=6&id=87
This product doesn't have the cordura type top layer like their other NeoMat products ... But it also is advertised as not holding any water like their other NeoMat versions ...(which advertise as holding 5% water) ...
It lays flat without glue or edge binding ...
Edges will not ravel not unravel like carpet ...
It insulates against hot and cold undersurface ...
It absorbs sound amazingly ...
They advertise camo tops for this product but the camo wasn't available when I bought mine early last year ...mine is simply drab green with a ribbed surface ...
Rickie
I used the restore 10x for decks on my boat and has held up great. it has been on for 4 years and no show of ear as of yet. got it at homedepot
What material is your boat (metal, wood, or fiberglass)?Quote:
Originally Posted by gatoloco
I used the textured deck stuff you buy at lowe's and have had it on about a year. So far I like it except for the noise, but I don't fish that shallow. Alumacraft - aluminum boat.
Replace your floor once and never again. Best stuff on the market. Non slip, easy to clean with a hose & doesn't get hot in the sun! :)
SafeFloor - High Performance Marine Surfacing