Couple of questions on pulling, pushing, cranks. Do any of you guys pull with the outboard or trolling motor only. Also when you hook a fish do you stop to reel him in, or continue pulling. Thanks for any info.
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Couple of questions on pulling, pushing, cranks. Do any of you guys pull with the outboard or trolling motor only. Also when you hook a fish do you stop to reel him in, or continue pulling. Thanks for any info.
Continue pulling and sometimes some speed up, you can pull with either motor.
I used to pull with a 115 four stroke outboard....I had to put a trolling plate on the motor to go slow enough.....you need to run about 1.6 to 1.8 mph
I have a trolling plate for my 75 but only use it when wind and battery life are going to be an issue. Most of the time I use the Terrova and never stop for fish or hang-ups
I use my electric for 1 to 1.4. I stop for a snag but rock on for fish. I use a plug knocker to free any snagged baits that reversing direction doesn't free. I'm just cheap and hate to lose em. You'll stumble around for a trip or two but figure it out like I did. It's fun when it's hoppin.
Where can I find a plug knocker?
Thanks
Thanks I am going to get one.
I made mine with a 4oz sinker and a BIG snap and a chalk box for about 6 bucks. Braided mason string works best, doesn't unravel like the twisted does.
I pull with the electric motor only, a Minn Kota iPilot, at speeds from 1.2 to 1.5. I will sometimes stop if it looks like a fish is barely hooked, but you have to be careful not to pause too long or you may end up with tangled lines. Either way, it is best to keep steady pressure on the fish to prevent losing one that is hooked.
Thanks for all the info guys, been crappie fishing for many years but never tried anything like this, it sounds interesting to try on one of my local lakes. Didn't know the best way to avoid tangles, which I'm sure will happen often enough anyway. thought fish might pull off if I kept going, but it makes sense keeping the lines tight would help avoid tangles. I have 4 stroke 40 that will idle pretty slow and quiet may try this and trolling motor to see how each works. Lot of knowledgeable here, good site for sure.
When Pulling Cranks I use an Engine Mounted Minn Kota EM up to 1.7 mph (I run 3 big Optimas, so I can troll all day at that top speed). If I need to Pull faster - I use an ETEC 15 horse kicker - up to 3 mph and if I know I am going to be pulling mostly over 2.2 mph - I just use the big 250HO. Pushing cranks I will use the Terrova and maybe "supplement" with the kicker if it is windy. The only time I slow down is for a big fish (Cat, Sheep, etc) and if I snag - I will break it off and keep going - unless it is truly a hot-running-hard-to-find bait. For a plug knocker - I'll use old sparkplugs and bend the gap closed - sliding it down the line and jigging it until it gets the lure free.
I've pulled cranks for years. Never trolled with the electric troll mtr. I made a bracket
and placed a 3.5 hp OB beside my 150.I set the 3.5 in such an angle that I can steer
the boat at the wheel unless it very windy. Never stop when get snagged, and make
wide sweeps when turning. Speed 1.5 to 1.7mph
From what I've seen & experienced in my limited time pulling cranks ... once the fish comes to the surface, you want to hold the rod high & keep the fish coming on its side (skiing on the surface) with a fast retrieve ... then net or hoist the fish into the boat. My experience has only been with 2oz weights & a 5' mono leader between the main line braid & crankbait ... so, if you hang up, you keep going or risk having all the lines pulled to the bottom. With the boat going at approx. 1.8mph ... even from 15' deep, the fish will be pulled to the surface rather quickly. It can then be skidded across the water's surface with a fast/steady retrieve.Quote:
Originally Posted by flatbottomarky
Some fish will get the "bends" from the rapid removal from the depths, and may require "fizzing" of the air bladder if you intend to keep them alive for any length of time; for whatever reason (tournament weigh-in, possible later release, etc).
... cp :kewl
Interesting CP. I don't use weight behind the boat, letting the bill on the bait take it down. I looked at some in line sinkers on Ebay but haven't gotten any yet. If I have to stop the baits float and just need retrieved. I don't have the rods needed to push, can't handle the weight. I'll have to try some weight on those behind and see how it goes.
I troll with my out board and tie two buckets to the back of the boat to slow it down much like a drift sock would. Redneck engineering at it's finest.
Oh and I just real them in unless it's a walleye or bigger fish than a crappie then I go ahead and kill the engine and work him in.
Just remember when you use inline or snap-weights with cranks they are very speed sensitive. the faster you go the higher it will ride and the slower you go the more the crank will sink. but the good thing is it gives your crank more vertical swim and covers more of the water column. In a turn the outside boards (if using inline planer boards)(I prefer the Offshore Mini boards, GO TEAM SKARLIS) go faster and the inside will slow down. so if your pull a fish while in a turn on the inside, slow down and go deeper (more line out) and just the opposite for the outside, faster and higher.
A general rule of thumb for inline / snap weights, a 2oz weight, 6 foot in front of crankbait and add about 6 to 8 feet to your dive curve @ 1.5 mph. For example I THINK a bandit 300 at 55 feet back puts you at about 10 feet so with the inline 6 feet in front you would be running your lure about 16 to 18 feet down. This is not exact just a rough estimate so you just have to make adjustments until the fish tell you your on the mark