Has anyone ever used this stuff for their boat motors? How did you use it? What were the results? Thanks for all the help.
Mike
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Has anyone ever used this stuff for their boat motors? How did you use it? What were the results? Thanks for all the help.
Mike
I use it because every comment I have seen on it says it is the best thing ever for cleaning fuel systems and improving performance. I thought it would replace Stabil as a stabilizer but I have since learned you need both, One for cleaning and one for stabilizing and protecting against ethanol, if you buy that kind of gas. So far, I've only run non-ethanol, but you never know for sure what you are getting.
My outboards are old, so I need all the help I can get.
I put an ounce into every gallon but I don't use much gas as I only have a 9.9. I started using it after reading about he great it was on duckhunter.net
Its not a engine treatment Mike.....Its a fuel treatment that helps keep the fuel system clean. Its good stuff, been around for years.
Has saved me a couple of pieces of lawn equip. that I thought was gone ran some sea foam and they have been running every since great stuff.
I use it in my boat every tank . Also use it in my truck about 2 or 3 times a year . I use gas station gas in the boat .
Mike, it cuts the varnish out of cab,fuel pump and anywhere gas may sit. If you have never run it dose that new motor up pretty good with it and run the snot out of it. Leave it sit in carbs a few days then run it again. Then just add a couple of ounces every time you fill up. Also good to add some Marine Stabil every fill up. Check your motor for a filter under the cowel. If it dosent have one you need to add one between tank and carbs.
I have Stabil for the tractor. Is that different from marine stabil?Quote:
Originally Posted by cray
Yes the marine stabil is formulated a bit differently for outboard and marine applications. I happend on a TV show where they were discussing the Stabil products. Up til then I figured they were the same. Won't hurt to use the regular, the marine is just tweaked a little more toward boat appications.
older motor that has never ben cleaned . you can flood them out through the carb. and then pull plugs spray the cylinders with it let it sit over night then run it on a hose muff or in a tank .then run it on the water WOT till it warms up then change plugs and you are ready for the water . do not run in driver way on muffs . the wife will be on you bad time
I use it in my chainsaws, string trimmers, lawnmowers.....well everything that runs on gas. Have been using it for years. It makes everything run better.
I use it in all motors. Cleans them really well. You can put it in the gas tank or pull a vacuum hose and pour it in.
I get the spray can and take the cylinder cover off and hook up the muffs spray heavy into each cyl.turn off motor let set for awhile,then run your motor. smokes like crazy but it works
You have all managed to convince me to give it a try. I went to Autozone and picked up a couple of cans to put into the fuel. Thanks.
Attachment 147406
Mike you need to mix Marine Stabil in your fuel at the reccomended rate everytime you add fuel. I also suggest that your buy and install a water separator filter and change the spin on filter on it once a year.
ok. PM or post what a water seperator and a spin filter is because I am NOT MECHANICALLY INCLINED at all. How do you install it or should I take the boat to a marina? What is it's function? DO I mix the marine stabile as well as the Sea Foam into the fuel? I hope I am not the only one on www.crappie.com who has NO CLUE about these things. Perhaps this thread will help others as well. Thanks. MikeQuote:
Originally Posted by "G"
You can use the sea foam and the marine stabil together. But I just just the marine stabil all the time and I put sea foam in in the early spring when I start useing the boat again just to clean it up good. The water separator filter catches the water that you get from ethanol gas which absorbs moisture and akso any from fuel tank sweating. The filter has a base that mounts in your rear compartment on your boat where the gas tank is. You have to cut your fuel line that runs from your tank to the motor and conect to the filter base. Filter screws onto the base. Filter kit comes without hose barb fitting so you will have to buy two fittings and clamps to conect your fuel lines to it. Filter and base assy is about 50 bucks at boat shop....pluse labor to install. I got mine at walmart for 25 bucks and installed myself. Just follow the directions that come with it.
Here ya go, Ship :
http://www.boatingmag.com/maintenanc...ater-separator
http://www.moellermarine.com/afterma.../fuel_filters/
Best case scenario is you can mount the separator between the gas tank & bulb, and only have to cut the fuel line & attach it to the separator. Worse case scenario is you have to move things around, and/or get a longer fuel line, and "make it fit" your boat's bilge area.
I've got one, but haven't gotten around to putting it on, yet ... as my boat presents a possible "worst case scenario". :Doh:
I have the Moeller Clear Site (#33314-10) 10micron system ... and it's much bigger, in real life, than what the pictures online would indicate. It's almost 10" tall & 5" wide. I researched & went with this one for my 90HP Merc 2strk.
Looks like this :
http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...yaWA-7TeUA.jpg
.... cp :kewl
Ok. Thanks again David and Pappy.
I have a inline filter in my fuel line and I do run a oz in my 6 gal tank when I put gas in it I put another oz
Seafoam performs the same duties as Marine Stabil. There is no reason to run both unless you want to. Here is information directly from their site. It stabilizes fuel for up to 2 years and controls moisture buildup. I run a whole can of it every fill up. Got the seafoam in a case from amazon and only paid about 6 a can for it. Its some good stuff!!!Attachment 147744Attachment 147745Quote:
Originally Posted by "G"
Mike, I wouldn't even think of running anything gas powered with out it. Lawnmower,chain saw, snow blower, they all get it. Everything but the truck.Quote:
Originally Posted by shipahoy41
Changed the head gaskets on the outboard and the heads and cylinders were shiny clean. My mechanic said thats the way I like to see them. I have used it for years now.
I have wondered the same.
I have a 2 stroke Yamaha 90 horse on my boat. I am definitely not a mechanic. I was using Yamaha Ring Free, Stabil, and Seafoam. My boat mechanic said to just use Stabil. So that's what I do and have not had any problems. I did put on a fuel/water separator and put it on myself....not very hard to do. I do use gas with ethanol, since ethanol free gas is hard to find around here.
Don't know if this helps...
I have read that and heard all that Handi. But I have been useing bothe products for y ears and I just think Stabil does a better job of stabilizing fuel and Seafoam does a better job of cleaning. Anyway thats what works for me. I use a lot of each here on the farm.
I have been using just Sea Foam in all my motors every since this area went to all E-10 at the stations. Zero problems and this has been over 15 years now.
It cant hurt to use both but I dont think its necessary. Only time will tell but im going on 18 months of only seafoam and my motor has never ran or acted better. This was after I had my fuel line replaced and carbs cleaned from ethanol damage over a 6 year period but the gas was not properly treated over that period. I do use a whole can everytime I fill up and that is usually only 10 to 12 gallons but they say you cant use to much of either the seafoam or stabil.Quote:
Originally Posted by "G"
Sea foam is a great product, I use it in my lawnmower, leaf blower and chainsaws. For what it's worth my marine service center does not recommend it for EFI motors he said it would breakdown the o-rings over time. Best to use stable to treat fuel.
Wigglewart, all the people here on c.com have taught an old dog a new trick. I am willing to give it a try in my own tractor, leaf blower, trimmer and also in the boat motor. They all have to perform better than they did last year in spite of all new spark plugs. Again, I thank all of you who posted on this thread to advise and help the old man out.
Ship, some great info here. Don't forget the water separator. Very, very importantQuote:
Originally Posted by shipahoy41
Yes it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Don G
Thanks Don. You woukd think the water separators came with the fully rigged bass boats. I will check mine out on Monday.Quote:
Originally Posted by Don G
Ship.....most but not all of the new boats come with them. The older boats do not have them unless someone added it on. With todays ethanol gas it is very important to have one.
Mine is a 1981 Venture Bass Boat.Quote:
Originally Posted by "G"
Attachment 147544
This is it.
I was introduced to Seafoam through my marine mechanic in Florida name of Bill Yates. Small shop with a strong following because he didn't waste his time or your money. He told me of his introduction to it and it went something like this; He was brought a 20hp tiller handle Mercury that and older gent liked to slow troll with. It just wouldn't behave, running rough and cutting out. Bill was the second tech to try and solve the problem. With the owners blessing he went through the carbs, twice, and the ignition system from top to bottom, changed nothing. One of the fellas that hung around from time to time came in and after learning of all the head scratching going on, he went to the parts house and came back with a can. Doing the choke and soak thing, Bill let it sit for a few hours while he tended another motor. He added some more fuel to keep the mix strong and fired it up in the test tank. He had to back away from the tank for all the smoke and black soot coming out of it, and had to change the water when finished. Seems the trolling had built up carbon and ash deposits and wouldn't let the motor breathe as it should. The motor went back to purring as it had before and the man paid his bill with a big smile. I don't use it every tank but run a can every few months in about a half tank of fuel and have no fuel related problems. I do run Marine Stabil religiously with every tank. My Jimmy's intake gaskets failed in a water jacket and the Nephew changed them. When he lifted the intake off and turned it over he couldn't believe what he was seeing and asked how I kept the injectors so clean. Motor had 153,000 and they were perfect. Stuff was developed in the 40's for marine applications and after talking to every mechanic I could find I have yet to hear a bad word about it, and that in itself speaks volumes. I'm as sold as I could be on the product. Like your new boat Mike, looks like a charm. Good luck with it.
Skeetbum's post reminded me that I have (somewhere) the procedures for doing a de-carb using Sea Foam. It does an excellent job when done right. When a motor is left sitting and not ran for a very long time it is fairly common for 1 cylinder to have low compression. This would be the one at the top of it's stroke and rings will stick from carbon and being compressed for a long period. I have seen this stuff free the rings and restore compression. It can get very messy from cleaning the motor out and is not something you would want to do on a nice clean driveway.
Thank you my friend. It has a 90hp on the rear end.Quote:
Originally Posted by skeetbum
Attachment 147636
You are the first one to say "Don't do this on the driveway." I appreciate that tidbit of information. I guess I will just have to mess up the back yard. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Barnacle Bill
In case you don't have it, here is the procedure I use to use when I was working on motors.Quote:
Originally Posted by shipahoy41
http://forums.iboats.com/engine-freq...aq-158076.html
+1 on everything said. Seafoam goes in everything I own. Do the decarb procedure mentioned. Its the best way and what I have always done. I bought a small jug for just seafoam decarb procedures.
There is another product that was mentioned earlier. Seafoam Deepcreep, it is a penetrating oil by nature. But is used the same way seafoam is used, just in aerosol form. Pull plugs and spray in, let set overnight...will loosen all the carbon from your rings and combustion chamber.
Like Bill said...NOT in driveway....or around any houses or people. It will SMOKE....ALOT...and leave a trail of black gunk.
One other thing...when doing any decarb on a boat motor...the chance is always there to foul a plug. Have a set with you when you do the decarb. That way you have them if needed. If you dont' foul any and they have any age on them I would go ahead and replace after the decarb. I always made a point to do this after the full on decarb.
Another tidbit...you can use it the same way in your vehicle. Ecspecially if you run an older carb or throttle body injected engine. Carb engines will surprise you at the gunk that comes out...due to the fact they never hold their mixtures right...and are normally not touched enough. Pull the Big vacuum tube off the brake booster. This is the big round thing on the firewall that attaches to the master cylinder..where you add brake fluid. With engine running you'll feel a vacuum (sucking) from hose...that leads right into the intake manifold. Slowly pour seafoam into that hose with engine running until it nearly dies...have engine warm when you do this. Allow to sit for 15 minutes...then drive the hound out of it. Do this a few times, put the rest in the tank if you have any left. You'll clean your intake, valves, pistons, combustion chamber and such. Normally add some milage back if its down.
Point being...you didn't go wrong buying it...nor will you ever go wrong using it. Great stuff!