Yall probably already know this but you can use a drill press to turn your molds into laminates if they have enough meat on them. Will test it out tomorrow.
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Yall probably already know this but you can use a drill press to turn your molds into laminates if they have enough meat on them. Will test it out tomorrow.
this looks like a Jacob mold if it is we took all of his molds and made bigger portholes I believe that I posted on this and we did use a inset tool if you do use one of these be careful but we definitely made bigger holes for my bigger injectors Jacob has made all the portals bigger on all his molds now I do not advise this if you have a plate laminate plate.
Still trying to figure out what you did. Can you explain or show some more pics?
Put half of a hole on the outside of the mold, turn it around, the half hole matches up with the orig hole, now u can give it a squirt of plastic, flip the mold back around and finish yer pour.. works greatQuote:
Originally Posted by ifish
Good idea
I guess I should reread your post more clearly before I posted you have a good ideal just longs it you can get everything lined up perfect before you drill a hole I never thought about doing that myself but we do have other molds that we may give that a shot is I have a lot of Rick molds with the small port hole we will give this a shot and by golly I think this will really work especially on my smaller cavity stuff that I couldn't do laminate before.Quote:
Originally Posted by snake River
I've done some mods to Caney molds in the past but for the most part I just make a plate using punch metal. I can cut this metal with a scissors and it sandwiches between the mold halves even with a hinge.
On one Caney mold's lam plate I just drilled a matching hole at the other end of the plate so I can use the plate to stop either the top or bottom from filling. Rick Jacobs made me a plate for one of his molds and then cut me a belly-portion only to use with the lam plate for shooting three color bodies instead of hand pouring the belly bottom. Rick did an awesome job on these add-on plates.
On the narrow injection port on early Jacobs molds, you can open it up easily by clamping the mold shut tight and use a counter-sink on a drill press. Just go slow and keep the filings and chips cleared of where you are cutting.
Here's a picture of the punch metal plates I make. I have several but these were just handy. The punch metal comes from Hobby Lobby ad costs less than $4.00 for piece about 5"X8". Some of mine have holes drilled for the alignment pins to fit thru but in all seriousness I haven't spent more than ten minutes on any of the plates even when holes are need for the pins.
Hey Ctom. Thanks for the help. I don't see any pictures! Thanks Huskerwill for explaining. Makes sense now!
thank you thank you thank you for the ideal we went to the shop today and turn some of the molds into laminate plates like you did by drilling the hole fantastic that top plastic bait that we are posting in the picture was a 48 cavity mold and I could not shoot it with the dual injector so finally we got to shoot to colors the other plastic bait on the bottom of the picture was another one that we did the same thing both these molds again I could not shoot with a dual injector so thanks for the tip I appreciate it very much.Quote:
Originally Posted by lcookie
Attachment 139306
I think I posted a do it yourself a long time ago on how to do a punch plate, but that was back I think when this site was fairly new so it would be hard to find. However you can use aluminum foil and it works just as good. I did it that way to keep from modifying the molds and risking messing one up.
I remember when you posted about the tinfoil but it's been a few years back like you said I wouldn't remember the first post you made on this unless I searched through all the post it's good to see you on here I hope everything is going well for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by crappieseeker
No Problem. Just glad I was able to contribute something back given all the valuable info I have taken away. Thanks for all your advise on my journey.Quote:
Originally Posted by snake River
Attachment 139350
Here's the missing picture from my earlier post.
I have some brass shim stock I will try. What a bunch of great info on the best forum in the world. You guys rock!
ctom are you using galvanize sheeting I have tried other sheeting in the past and had problems with it sticking when I use galvanize I don't have any problems just curious on what cheating that you will work using.Quote:
Originally Posted by CTom
I have bought molds from Rick that already well-made for doing that but I was afraid to try it myself I thought oh well if Iraq one it will be holes on the back side but thank you again and they come out perfect I wish I would've tried this a long time ago before I made larger portholes in Rick's molds. the only reason why I made larger portals in his molds was to handle the dual injector.Quote:
Originally Posted by lcookie
I'm not positive what the metal is Bob. Its not galvanized. I is fairly soft though, but not aluminum either. I can get brass and copper in the same size and thickness there at Hobby Lobby but they are much more $$$.
I use roof flashing from Lowes or the hobby lobby stuff ctom posted