Anybody using the clear cure goo ? The tack free aint so "tack free" . If anybody knows what to use to get that tacky film off let me know, i tried rubbing alcohol but that didnt work so well.
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Anybody using the clear cure goo ? The tack free aint so "tack free" . If anybody knows what to use to get that tacky film off let me know, i tried rubbing alcohol but that didnt work so well.
I use it and don't seem to have a problem withy she tack free. I have several different ones including one ths is not tack free and also the Loon I have is not ack free, but the one in question I have done fine with. I even use the thin tack free on some for the Holographic eyes.
What kind of light are you using to cure it?
I bought the kit with the uv light they sell. Maybe i need to keep the light on it a little longer ?
I think the thicker it is used the longer it may take, not positive of that though. They make 2 different lights and the one with the larger glass area has a lot of LEDs I guess They are, but the other one is more costly and doesn't flair out at tgat end as much as the other one I am talking about? It's a lot stronger.
i know at first I got the Loon and then this stuff came out so I ask some questions about it and one thing they said was the Loon light would really work on the Clear Cure Goo, but the Clear Cure light wold work on the Loon because of strength or lack there of for the Loon.
so it would take longer with the weaker light.
thickness may be the problem, i do have the one that flares out on the end . I leave them in a window seal in direct sunlight for a few days and that usually takes care of it. Ive been tying some jigs with glass rattles incorporated into them then covering them with the goo. You can create some pretty cool jigs with them. I'll try and get a few pics posted . Thanks for the info, and yes I still blame you for this addiction !!
LOL, I warned you! DO you really need to cover the whole thing with the glue? That light I am talking about is close to $60 where I see it retail and just around $40 wholesale where the one that flairs out a lot is around $20 wholesale and think close to double that retail. I am surprised it take that long in the sun.
i'll take some pics tomorrow and show you what i'm doing with it. Kinda like making a glass minnow. I use the dumbell eyes and tye them on sickle jig hooks like you would a clouser minnow, then add a small glass worm rattle and the tail material.You can use mylar and wrap it , take a sharpy and draw on gills or any other patterns you like then incase it in goo. Sounds complicated but its really simple.
Sounds interesting and doesn't sound too bad. I have some new materials I bought to try some kind of minnow jig too. It's going to be interesting and ot sure yet how I will do it.
Are you using a rotary vise? That is a must with clear goo....he has many videos but to solve the tacky (Sally Hansons) that is what they recommend . I used thick product a lot in my drop shot flies to add 3-D eyes. Expensive ! Love the things you can do with it!
the first 3 pics do not have rattles in them, the rest of them have rattles . Lift, I dont know why i didnt think about that ! Thats the answer alright, good ole Sally Hansons , and yes, i am using a rotary vise wich is a must to use the goo .
I should have mentioned the SH. Sorry about that because I knew that. These are pretty cool! There are other materials you can use for that, but it doesn't dry/set so fast.
Those last 4 pics look like a catalpa worm. Great job.
Good work. SH will work great to top coat with.
Its kinda costly to use , but i just make them for me for the most part. Theres a lot of different things you can do with with the Goo .
Yes I would say kind of costly. Them little bottle they do not give away, LOL!
Here is the light I was telling you about, the strong one...
JS Fly Fishing: Rod Building, Fly Tying: Hareline Clear Cure Goo 3 Watt Premium Curing Light
And the one in this kit is still good, but not as strong...
JS Fly Fishing: Rod Building, Fly Tying: Hareline Clear Cure Goo Brushable Kit with Light
I know nothing about clear cure goo skip what is the curing time for this stuff and is this stuff a two-part mixture I have not read anything about it just glanced at a few of the post here I am curious. we have done the same thing in the past but I have used a proxy fast drying five-minute .
It's UV Glue and the lights are UV lights and sure it in like 5 seconds unless you make it thick like he has and then probably a bit longer to cure. Heck the sun will sure it too so you don't want that bottle open using the light or with sun shining in on it. Loon also makes one than is pretty nice, but probably not quite as good as the Clear Cure Goo. Depends on how you use it as both have their place. The Loon comes in bigger bottles, but if you want it tack free it would probably take a coat of Sally Henson's Hard as Nails.
Bob here is a really cool tying of a fly using the Loon and one that made me tie some jigs like this and pretty cool stuff.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMkn4HUYte4
Also here is one of the jigs I tied trying to copy that video method.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...DSC06045-1.jpg
skip that is some neat stuff we will definitely have to get some of that and play with it the video is very good . it is a lot better than epoxy for sure I can see where the jig would be on destructible.
What is does that makes it really cool is usually tying a fly like that if a toothy critter hot it there is a good chance that the stem of the hackle gets cut and ruins the fly, but with this glue the stem in embedded so it most likely will not get cut and even if it did, it still wouldn't come apart. Usually when tying a fly like that to make it more durable they had to wrap a piece of wire over it to hold it in good, but this take the place of that wire. Plus on a dry fly you most likely wouldn't want the weight of the wire.
The green jigs were made by wrapping a strip of green mylar from a mylar balloon over a glass worm rattle that was tied to the hook.