This is a lot better than I had. Fully adjustable n easy to adjustAttachment 112412
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This is a lot better than I had. Fully adjustable n easy to adjustAttachment 112412
That will do.
If you have a welder and threader you could save some weight and money.
What's that thing weigh
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If you have a big enuff boat weight isnt an issue, specially on the front in ruff water.
Hey, if it works
If it don't work you can always use it as an anchor . lol
It's heavy n like John said, if you got a big boat, it don't matter. They'll adjust left, right, up and down. If I get hung up, they're super sturdy n won't break.
Lol Dan
Dang Ken lmbo
Hahaha nope
Bet if I did I could put a 300 on the back
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That ought to work Don
Attachment 112415
All I need is 3 lilpro rod holders n I'm done, I was bad needing to upgrade but don't have 250-300 to do it. This'll work for a couple years. Soooo much sturdier
I'd have like to have seen Donnie n kdavid on the front of the boat. Bet it was leaning real bad lol
Don,
How did you lock the pipe to the floor base to keep it from twisting?
I have similar base units in the back of my boat. I used a lock nut like they use in electrical conduit, but I have to tighten it with channel locks to get it to stay put. Not a big issue, but it would be awkward to do while trolling or moving on the water? Mine has a piece of angle welded to the top as a cross bar so I can't tilt mine up and down but they sit at a good angle to the water.
I had a piece of angle iron on top before but I had those $7 rod holders n they were always coming loose or I'd have to tap on them to adjust them, got tired of that. I just screwed them into the bases tight, their solid. They ain't going no where
Here's what I had before. Served a purpose but got tired of constantly adjusting them. Attachment 112428
Dang DD, I am proud of you, NO DUCT TAPE in site!
But there is that can of WD40.
Put some of that gray foam rubber pipe insulation around the stands and you will have a place to hang a few jigs when your changeing colors out etc.
Nope Rusty. Means a lot coming from you bro
No need got that. My tackle boxes stay right there behind me, easy to get to. I do wish I found find a way to get my net close to me though for easy access. No place to put a mount
be sure and tie your rope to then before you use them for an anchor . Ate at hamil's today /
since you building make you one of those Ts off you seat post for you net PVC works fine . neon had a picture a few days ago . I made mine for an umbrella but it works great for the net . just saying . might ought to tie a rope to it too .lol
Really, how often does everyone change jigs? Skirts, every couple hours but jig heads maybe a couple times a say if at all. If I change out I change out 3-4 st a time n it's to easy to reach back while still sitting in my chair n grab a couple boxes out. My front side compartments abut my front deck so I have way more room than most folks. We keep our miners on one n our tacklebox on the other. To easy to reach
Don,
I had similar holders on the angle iron. I replaced with driftmasters. I put a lock nut on the bottom(kind with the plastic collar on it) and the wing nut on top. That let me adjust them right to left. If you find that they bases loosen over time the locknut works well, especially if you leave them on. I have to take mine off to put the cover on.
It'd get in the way Ken. Thinking about a flag pole holder mounted to the front of my center console may work, it's about a 45 degree angle n that might just work
Thanks for the advice bro. With the wing nut lock on the lilpro rod holders I can adjust left n right real easy
This is what I have been using for three years. I like it. The clothes pin is to hold a rag.Attachment 112459
DD, black and galvanized pipe will have a tapered thread. The threaded end of the pipe may bottom-out on the deck of your boat before it tightens in the floor flange. You might want to cut some of the threaded end off so the tapered threads will seat in the floor flange, as opposed to the end of the nipple bottoming-out on the deck.
If all that makes sense.
Electrical threads (assuming that what lock nut you're using?) are cut straight, so it would really never "tighten" properly. Been so long since I fooled with any of this stuff......best thing to do is, hit the hardware store, pick-up a 1/2" floor flange and nipple, screw them together and see of the nipple protrudes past the bottom of the flange.
I sure hold you guys can make these things for a lot less than $85 a set because if you can't you are crazy not to just get you some Hi-Teks and be done with it. I also like to make some of my own stuff from time to time but I usually spend more trying to make it than I can buy it for.
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Sounds like Handi knows this stuff