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I have an older 1981 16' fiberglass Hydrasport bassboat. Where on the transom would be the best place to put it? I don't have a jackplate and boat is not that wide in the transom. I have an older inline Merc 115 6 cylinder. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Bassky
Is it possible to post some pics for us ?
My guess is you will have to mount it direct to the transom. On the narrow beam boats it will be critical to get it as close to center as possible.
Brian
Temporarily mount the xducer to a board and C-clamp it to the transom in different areas until you find "clean bubble free" water for the xducer to ride in..(this is wilbur's idea.. And a good 1 at that)..
Rickie
I will try to post some pictures today or tomorrow. I am anxious, but I want to do it right the first time.
Bassky
here are some pictures of back of boat transom and motor.
Thanks,
Bassky
Attachment 97464Here is one more, better pic.
Bassky
Will the Si transducer be used for your high speed sonar readings also ?
Yes I would like that to be so.
Bassky
The only option for accurate and consistent speed readings is to mount the transducer right above the pad as a skimmer transducer. Either left of the drain hole or just right of the livewell inlet.
If it were me, I would just mount it directly on the transom where the old transducer was previously then buy the AS SIDB Y cable and XP-9-20 puck transducer and epoxy it as a shoot-thru hull. This will work much better in the long run and you wouldn't need to be so concerned about the Si transducer being knocked off the boat by a stump, floater etc.
Brian
There never was one on the transom. How much for what you are saying y cable and new puck.?
How would I get to the hull at the back of the boat? So I still mount the orig transdeucer on the transom
like you said and then attach y cable and new puck and place on inside of the hull?
Dave
You are correct. One end of the Y goes to your thru-hull transducer an the other end to your Si transducer. The other leg of the cable will plug in to your unit. Once both transducers are connected to the Y cable, your 2D sonar readings will Always come from the thru-hull transducer.
There was some sort of ducer there at one time. I would place your Si just to the left of the temp probe.
The Y cable runs around $24 and the XP-9-20 -$56.
You will need to mount the XP-9-20 about 4-5 inches in front of the drain hole in the bilge area and about 1 1/2 inches off center of the pad. The area will have to be cleaned of all grease/oil and a slow cure 2 part marine grade epoxy used to secure the transducer.
Brian
Brian,
Thank you for your help. Suggestions for marine grade epoxy to use for puck? Also on a Hydrasport on bottom where puck transducer goes, is the bottom the actual bottom or is it layered, would you know? I hate to put one in and it not work correctly. I have one that came with the boat for a HB Wide and it is just laying on the bottom back by the transom, not glued and it works fine. This will be removed.
Thanks,
Bassky
I've used Devcon marine grade epoxy with good success but hopefully others will comment on what they use. The Devcon can be found in most auto parts stores. Slow cure epoxy is best as it keeps air bubbles out. Most bass boats have single layer of glass (and possibly Kevlar in you Hydrasport) in the bilge area. Some of the bay boats and others use a core foam that can cause performance issues but yours should be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassky
It's always a good idea to test your transducer before expoxying. Please the ducer in the bilge in the location I mentioned previously. Put a small weight on top to hold it in place. (a baggy with some sand works pretty good) then put enough water in the bilge to cover the transducer. Do a lake test to see how well the transducer performs in that location. Try and find the best spot where you can get the highest readings. This takes a little effort but will pay off in the long run.
Brian
There will be a packet of epoxy that comes with the XP-9-20 transducer, but I have used the 2-ton 30 minute cure Devcon epoxy before with good success. The main thing is to test the location on the water before mixing any epoxy. Than be sure and sand out any paint that may cover the raw fiberglass and dry and clean everything up well – them start mixing the epoxy.
Great advice. Thanks for the info on the epoxy and testing puck placement before gluing.
Bassky