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Anyone ever change the electrical system on their boat? I am wanting to go to at least a 24 volt setup. Going to get a 24 volt trolling motor and also to ensure I have enough to run new electronics.
Is there a electrical system wire diagram out there for a do it your selfer? Would I have to change out my fuse box setup as well? Anything that I need to think of or ensure I dont forget?
Thanks guys.
i don't know what you've got but here goes.....
the old boats just used circuit breakers at the batteries so no fuse box.the wires (and amps) are big enough the breakers are needed.plus they can be reset.you need 8 ga wire but 6 is better.depending on how big yout tm is of course.the simplest is to run one wire to the pos post of one battery,run another wire to the neg of the other battery.then hook a jumper between the remaining posts.yes that means pos to neg.that gives a straight 24 volts.you can wire straight to your tm or use a plug.
it's not recommended to run your electronics off the tm batteries.they go on the cranker and will need fuses.i would run the wiring back to the battery but you can hook it up thru a fuse box .
i haven't worked on newer boats and things do change but hopefully this helps.
Attachment 76435
Connect one of the negative sides of the battery to the positive side of the other battery. This puts them in series. There will now be 24V between the unconnected sides.
G.
Yes I understand not to hook electronics directly to batteries. I have a fuse box for that, but I am wondering if I need to upgrade the fuse box as well? The new electronics I am adding to the boat requires more than my old electronics did, and I just dont want to run batteries dead while trying to fish.
Going to run tm batteries in a series yes, and my current set up has breakers on them as well as inline fuses.
I have a 2002 Skeeter SX 180 with 115 v4 yamaha and a 12v motorguide tm.
You will love the 24vt trolling motor. Have you decided which one you are going to get? Variable speed is a HUGE plus. Don't think I could ever go back to one with out it.
if you run wire from the 24 volt batteries to the trolling motor, dedecated run that is, put 60 amp fuse in line and leave the fuse box alone, no way should you run 24 volts to the fuse box you will fry everything. I used braided welding wire for mine. zero problems it about 4 /0 I think, good current draw
[QUOTE=Little Skeeter;1732890]Yes I understand not to hook electronics directly to batteries. I have a fuse box for that, but I am wondering if I need to upgrade the fuse box as well? The new electronics I am adding to the boat requires more than my old electronics did, and I just dont want to run batteries dead while trying to fish.
Going to run tm batteries in a series yes, and my current set up has breakers on them as well as inline fuses.
I have a 2002 Skeeter SX 180 with 115 v4 yamaha and a 12v motorguide tm.[/QUOTE
i run mine directly to the cranker and install inline fuses at the battery.changing the fusebox won't help your battery last longer, only give you room for more fuses.only a stronger battery would help it last longer.you don't want to tie into an existing circuit at the fuse box unless you're sure it has the wiring and fuse to handle the extra load.i do have the front graph's fuse in the wiring under the front panel, but there is also a fuse back at the battery to protect the wiring.
you buy welding wire in different sizes, just like other wire.way bigger than what's needed, but the advantage is it's much more flexible than regular 6 ga wire.probably more expensive,tho.the owners manual with the tm will recommend a circuit breaker size according to the amp draw.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by beagle man
DO NOT run 24 volt through your fuse panel!!!!!! It is not the same as a/c!!!!!!
Run a dedicated lead from your trolling batteries with an inline breaker on the hot wire to the trolling motor.
^ Agree with Speck. The fuse box is only for your 12 V equipment. If the TM is there now, it won't be with your new set up. And if any of the existing equipment is currently running off the TM battery, you will need to run them from the cranking battery from now on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Speck
i took it for granted that you understand these are two seperate circuits.one for the 24v tm and the 12v for the rest of the boat.total of 3 batteries.you might want to look at a boat already rigged this way.
The top pic is two 12 volt battereis ran in series to get 24 volt. The bottom pic is two battereis in parallel that still gives 12 volts.
Use the top diagram with an inline circuit breaker rated for the amprage on your trolling motor. I ran 6 awg tinned copper wire for my 80 pound Minn Kota Terrova with a 60 amp inline breaker. The setup works great!!!!
Skeeter, I can't believe that a 2002 skeeter boat would come with a 12 volt trolling motor. I thought only bass tracker did that. Good luck running the wire up to the front of the boat. You may have to hook the new wiring up to the old and gently pull it threw. It is best if you have two people to do this unless you can pull side panels to access the wiring. Get the biggest trolling motor you can afford.
No I was not going to run the TM or 24v to fuse pannel. I asked about fuse panel because there are no extra slots in mine, and with the addition of new electronics, which are larger and more than what I had before, if I should upgrade to a larger panel and while doing so is there something that I may not be aware of as far as what else I should do on the panel while I am at it.
Yes I understand how to run batteries in a series for 24 and if I didnt before I sure do now! lol Thanks for the diagrams guys, they are actually pretty good.
As far as running the wire to the front of the boat, its not a problem on this boat as it runs through a channel in the boat, and all I have to do is before taking old wire out, tie on to it and have a retrieving line there for the new wire to be tied to and pulled back through.
So there isnt anything extra I will need to do to make this work other than finding a new panel for extra slots. Its been a while since I did any major wiring so I am taking it slow and asking questions as well as doing some research on it.
If you see me next time and my hair is all frizzed up and out, you know I made a mistake once or twice. lol
Thanks guys for all the info and help. Let me know if I missed something or didnt understand something correctly.
Yea still trying to decide which one I need. This old one has been good to me and is very responsive, but I need a little extra power for those windy days.Quote:
Originally Posted by LSL Angler
So whatever the TM says it runs on for amps get a breaker that goes up to that or just below? I cant remember how that works exactly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Speck
The TM you buy will have the reccommended breaker size. Minn Kota says a 60 amp breaker for an 80# TMQuote:
Originally Posted by Little Skeeter
You should really run three batteries. Two in series for the trolling motor, and one for the rest of the boat. If you try running your electronics off of one of the trolling motor batteries you will probably get a lot of noise on your electronic when you run the trolling motor. It will also run down one of your batteries faster than the other. Your Trolling Motor wiring should be adequate. When you increase the voltage, the current decreases proportionately for the same amount of power.
Yea I am going to have 3 and maybe 4 batteries. 2 for TM 1 for cranking and 1 for backup cranking and electronics. But I am only going to run TM on the two and nothing else even if I do go with 3 total.
Yea I found my old paper work for my current TM, lol 10 years old now but it states the breaker size in it, so I assume they still put that in the manual when you purchase one. If not I will contact the manufacture and ask.
Looking forward to having it upgraded, just wish it was warmer to work on it all, lol
the thing is the 24v moters make more power....they pull more amps.so you can't assume his wiring is adequate.if he's got 8 ga and 50 amp breakers, running on high against the wind/current it's likely to trip.the correct fix is 6 ga wire-not a 60 amp breaker and letting the 8ga wires/connectors heat up!Quote:
Originally Posted by FAADAN
Skeeter, instead of putting in new panel for electronics get a setof the Johnny Reb adapters that hook straight to your battery. That will give you 4 connection points for new electronics and run dedicated circuit for each one with separate fuse for each one the size each piece calls for. Any splicing you have to do, Solder and heat shrink. Good wiring:):):)
Power = voltage x current. 12v x 30a = 360 watts of powerQuote:
Originally Posted by rumrunner
24v x 30a = 720 watts of power that is twice the power at the same current draw. The bigger your wire, the easier it will be for the current to flow through the wire and the less power will be lost as heat in the wire. Also, multi stranded wire will carry more current than single stranded wire of the same gauge because of what is called skin effect. Current is carried on the skin of each wire. Multi strand welding cable works great.
yup, the finer the strands of wire, the more surface area for the electricity to use and that equals less resistance. welding wire (I used the ground lead of a MIG) is super fine strand AND has a much more durable insulation and is still affordable.
Ok I will look into that, thanks a lot!Quote:
Originally Posted by cray
Well last night I pulled the front panel off the front of the boat and discovered that it is already wired for 24v. It is a 12/24 volt connection. Not sure why I didnt relize that earlier. Went to the back of the boat and looked in the battery compartment, and reached up inside of it and found the second positive battery connection with breaker already connected.
So now I just need to get a 24 volt trolling motor and a set of new batteries. Am I understanding that correctly by the term 12/24?
Anyone know where to get a good deal on a TM?
Wannabe has a Motorguide for sale that was on the boat he just bought. He's replacing it with a Terrova
Yea I saw it, its older than my current one though. Looking to get something newer or new. Looking to change to a Minn Kota probably. Doubt I will get a terrova unless someone was just giving one away, that was 24 volt and at least 45 inch shaft.Quote:
Originally Posted by Speck
Thanks for thinking of me on that though.
http://www.crappie.com/crappie/showt...11#post1741211
That was what I posted up in the electronics and trolling motor forum section, I added the pics just a few min ago.
you're good to go
Thanks for all the help guys!
Ok well got all the electrical items updated and installed today. Traded my old 12 volt Trolling motor in on another slightly used 24 volt Trolling motor 70lbs Thrust with the 12/24 switch option on the foot pedal. 3 New batteries and 3 bank Minn Kota on board batter charger. Installed both 1198 and 998 Humminbird units with ram mounts and transducers on transom and trolling motor, as well as both GPS pucks. Got live well cleaned out and scrubbed. Still can not decide on where to mount Spider riggin mounts though, guess I will try a spot and if I dont like it, move it to another.
Boat should be good to go all this fishing season, unless I have some more bad luck down the road, lets hope not. Cant wait to try out this bigger trolling motor now, should be able to fight wind all day long with this baby! hahahahaha, cause it is beginning to look like it is going to blow all year long now.
Just a few pics. Trolling motor Attachment 78830 Transducer on TM Attachment 78831Foot pedal with 12/24 switch Attachment 78832
1198 & 998 with ram mounts Attachment 78833
TM batteries and 3 bank charger Attachment 78834
Thanks guys for all your helpful suggestions!
Looking good, i see you got the shield saver on the transducer. I need to do a little work to my boat also while it in the garage.
Looks like your ready to go Skeeter. Mount a holder on small piece of plywood and get a brick or something to hold in place. Set it up and get in seat. Move around till you find a comfortable spot to mount them. Check clearance for trolling motor. And it's steering cable.
Looks good Skeeter.Your gonna like those Pro Series Batteries.I am on year number 3 on mine and they are still as strong as they were new.
Yeap got that shield save after researching for about a month on different ones. Its not cheap but its the best one out there.Quote:
Originally Posted by LSL Angler
Yea I thought about that, and probably will do it soon. The steering cable is my only concern as the tm is raised and lowered. Everything else seems to be ok and out of the way as far as measurements go. But yeap going to do what you said and sit in the seat and play around with it a bit. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by cray
Good to hear, my first time using them. All 3 are that brand. My old ones of a different brand lasted from 2006 till now, and were still doing ok, but I knew it was getting close to the end for them. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Hogster1
Looking good man, should do you a great job, hope it all works and work well too.
Good lookin setup. My 24V trollin motor gets me in more trouble on the lake than my Outboard. LOL Good luck with that rig
Yeap I know what you mean. This thing has a lot of torque!!! hahahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Crappie_Express
Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk
You missouri guys really do have some funny looking deer.... :)